97 Conversion to Trail Warrior
97 Conversion to Trail Warrior
Second time around for doing a conversion for me so I'm doing this one on the cheap. It mostly means that I'm going to do the wiring myself rather than buy a kit and parts will be second hand.
First, the headlight: 55W Ray halogen with a low wattage DRL that I'm gong to replace with an LED
Hard to see the small lamp inside
High/Low/Parking light switch and kill switch from a Banshee. I'm not running blinkers.
Mirror from the previous dual sport with a CB360 mounting bracket
LED taillight straight out of Hong Kong via Ebizzle with a mount made from an old license plate
I purchased new for the speedo. Wanted to make sure I got everything I need for this
Also been trying to make the initial throttle a little less abrupt so I cut away the radius to make what's called a "control throttle", No need to spend 70 bucks for the brand name. The black line in the pic shows what I cut away.
Got a DOT rear tire and I'm patiently scouting a cheap front
Bought a used regulator/rectifier from a Honda TRX200, but no pic of it yet.
Made the switch to a 95 CR250 coil so I can run 60W. I haven't purchased the lighting coil or battery yet. Those will be bought new.
First, the headlight: 55W Ray halogen with a low wattage DRL that I'm gong to replace with an LED
Hard to see the small lamp inside
High/Low/Parking light switch and kill switch from a Banshee. I'm not running blinkers.
Mirror from the previous dual sport with a CB360 mounting bracket
LED taillight straight out of Hong Kong via Ebizzle with a mount made from an old license plate
I purchased new for the speedo. Wanted to make sure I got everything I need for this
Also been trying to make the initial throttle a little less abrupt so I cut away the radius to make what's called a "control throttle", No need to spend 70 bucks for the brand name. The black line in the pic shows what I cut away.
Got a DOT rear tire and I'm patiently scouting a cheap front
Bought a used regulator/rectifier from a Honda TRX200, but no pic of it yet.
Made the switch to a 95 CR250 coil so I can run 60W. I haven't purchased the lighting coil or battery yet. Those will be bought new.
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- Joined: October 31st, 2010, 8:37 pm
Bought a SPAL fan. Thinking I may need it if I get stuck in traffic.
Purchased a Shorai. Wasn't sure there was a battery in the package it's so light.
It's lighter than my lithium-ion powerdrill battery
That's all I got for now. Most of my time is taken up by a 3-month-old, and winter weather blows.
Purchased a Shorai. Wasn't sure there was a battery in the package it's so light.
It's lighter than my lithium-ion powerdrill battery
That's all I got for now. Most of my time is taken up by a 3-month-old, and winter weather blows.
Got some parts today from Autolumination.com. One of these lights will go in the headlight DRL as mentioned in one of the previous posts.
Standard 194 bulb on the left: still works but getting ugly. A high-powered amber LED on the right from another project, and a side-emitting white LED in the center, which is what you're interested in. I picked a side emitter because it will bounce light off the headlight reflector better, as opposed to some forward angle that will just shine out the corner of the headlight
I may have to run a total loss system so using the LED in my headlight will gain me more riding time.
Standard bulb current draw: 184.3mA
High-powered amber LED: 27.6mA
Side-emitting white LED: 17.8mA
Standard 194 bulb on the left: still works but getting ugly. A high-powered amber LED on the right from another project, and a side-emitting white LED in the center, which is what you're interested in. I picked a side emitter because it will bounce light off the headlight reflector better, as opposed to some forward angle that will just shine out the corner of the headlight
I may have to run a total loss system so using the LED in my headlight will gain me more riding time.
Standard bulb current draw: 184.3mA
High-powered amber LED: 27.6mA
Side-emitting white LED: 17.8mA
Not much to update. I put the 15oz flywheel weight on. That made a monster difference in how the bike runs "off the pipe" when you're just putting along at 30-40mph; No more jerkiness. I'm also thinking about lowering the compression to further offset pumping losses. Maybe a second head gasket?
I had to buy blinkers and a signal switch to pass inspection. Parts are on the way, so no pics yet.
I had to buy blinkers and a signal switch to pass inspection. Parts are on the way, so no pics yet.
Got the blinkers on.
Had to change to a different style handlebar control. It works out pretty good though because now I have three ways to run the electrical:
1. Nothing on except the Vapor dash.
2. Vapor, tailight and DRL LED.
3. Vapor, tailight and 55W halogen headlight.
Pic of the DRL LED lit up.
Battery mounted
I changed to this kill switch because there was none on the turn signal side.
New handlebar control has everything except kill switch
And the horn. I couldn't bring myself to put a bicycle horn on
Had to change to a different style handlebar control. It works out pretty good though because now I have three ways to run the electrical:
1. Nothing on except the Vapor dash.
2. Vapor, tailight and DRL LED.
3. Vapor, tailight and 55W halogen headlight.
Pic of the DRL LED lit up.
Battery mounted
I changed to this kill switch because there was none on the turn signal side.
New handlebar control has everything except kill switch
And the horn. I couldn't bring myself to put a bicycle horn on
Last edited by B440 on May 9th, 2012, 11:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
- 2strokeforever
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Noted. I'll keep track of use/time. How were they using theirs? Mine will likely be drained to nothing and then charged using a trickle charger.2strokeforever wrote:careful about the shorai, out of 8 people i know none of theirs has made 6 months without crapping out
Hmm, Shorai sells a specific charger for their battery. Maybe it's more important to use that than a traditional charger?
Took the bike out for a ride today with mixed road/trail/fire roads and I have a couple questions:
How can I make the cruising speeds smoother? When you're off the pipe (out of the power band) it's still a bit choppy/jerky even with the flywheel weight. Are there other tricks I can employ to smooth it out?
Lower compression?
Different carb settings?
Running the stock PJ carb. It came with a 50 pilot in the carb. 1/8 throttle was choppy. Stock is 55. I put in a 60 just to make sure I wouldn't burn down a piston riding the roads at 1/8 throttle, but it's the same when off the pipe.
About the ride today: This bike may not be the fastest on the highway, but it'll smoke anything stoplight-to-stoplight..... if I can keep the front wheel down.
How can I make the cruising speeds smoother? When you're off the pipe (out of the power band) it's still a bit choppy/jerky even with the flywheel weight. Are there other tricks I can employ to smooth it out?
Lower compression?
Different carb settings?
Running the stock PJ carb. It came with a 50 pilot in the carb. 1/8 throttle was choppy. Stock is 55. I put in a 60 just to make sure I wouldn't burn down a piston riding the roads at 1/8 throttle, but it's the same when off the pipe.
About the ride today: This bike may not be the fastest on the highway, but it'll smoke anything stoplight-to-stoplight..... if I can keep the front wheel down.
Small update: I tried out a 45 pilot and the engine didn't like that. Went to a 50 and it's idling ok, but doesn't feel much different from the 60. Might try a 52 or 55 later.
I also messed with the needle position, which didn't help much for that choppy feeling while cruising. I'm thinking that it may be the stock porting that causes this? Might have to port it
But first I'm going to play with timing. I'll try the inexpensive stuff first.
I also messed with the needle position, which didn't help much for that choppy feeling while cruising. I'm thinking that it may be the stock porting that causes this? Might have to port it
But first I'm going to play with timing. I'll try the inexpensive stuff first.
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