BannedCR500Riders.com

read this on TT, looks interesting for 250 ignition users............

I have been working on this project for over 3 months now. I know that the 2002-2008 CRF 250/450R OEM stator are the same. I was rebuilding my motor on my CR250 (broken shift drum) so when i was taking the bike apart i realized that the my CR250 stator was the same as the 2002-2008 CRF stator. I finished putting the bike back together, evertything worked great started up shifts through all gears ready to ride.So i took a Trail Tech S-8200-05 stator and with a few modifications mounted it on my stator plate. The first kick it fired right up. I ran it through our field, and in the woods for an hour or so going through all the gears and reving it to see if there would be anybreaks in the cdi. FLAWLESSSS So i put my 8" HID racelight that i got from Trail Tech also. It worked great with no problems. So when i mounted the stator i was excited about that, but i wanted to take it to the next level. I noticed the CR250 OEM flywheel is two pieces the spindle is riveted into the flywheel. So i was thinking if Trail Tech makes a flywheel for the CRF that in combination with the stator produces over 70 watts at idle, why cant i adapt that flywheel with my CR250 spindle to make it work? So i bought a 6142-25 flywheel from them. I have access to a lathe, and 3 axis CNC. 5 hours of machining later i was able to machine out the 6142-25 spindle counterbore it on the backside of the flywheel so that the timing feature on the flywheel was in the path of the pip sensor on the stator. After it was lined up i drilled and tapped the flywheel in a position where i could modify the timing feature on the 6142-25 to match the size of the timing feature on my OEM flywheel. I modified the timing feature to match the OEM flywheel. After i finished building the flywheel i sent the flywheel to Trail Tech to be balanced on there flywheel balancer machine. They balanced it for me, i received it back and my heart began to race. So i started my CR250 up with my oem flywheel in it, and let it warm up. I let the bike warm up for about 5 minutes, shut it off took of the shifter, sidecase, used an impact gun and flywheel puller and removed my oem flywheel. I put on my flywheel that i fabricated, and put everything back on. Now it was time, in one manly kick my CR fired right up!!!!!!!!!!! I was so jazzzzzed up i couldn't believe it. First of all i have 70 watts of DC power at my hand right now. Also the flywheel i made was a trailtech heavy flywheel. The flywheel i made is 9 oz. over stock!!!!!!!!!! The traction, and torque is an amazing difference. What a woods weapon huh? So right now on my CR250 I have a Trail Tech X2 HID light, a trail tech Voyager GPS unit!!!!!!!!!! Anybody want to go night riding????????

what year 250?

tried to put some ktm shit on the honda. 130w of powwa . but it wont fit. gear shifters swap just fine though

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... st10216941

link to get to get in on the action

his reply

I bought a used 01CR250 stator then machined off the rivets and punched it out to leave me just the spindle. I don't know 100% but i swear the 250's and 500's share alot of parts. I know the CR250 stator really hasn't changed much since like 1987 till 2007.

dude has gotten into selling the set up now chris

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... p?t=970954

too much money for me, and i am not willing to add any weight to my flywheel, but i got something that is cheap (<$50) and bolt on (for ANY MX or DS bike, and most street bikes) that will hugely improve the existing charging system
with the same stator it can make 3.3 times more peak wattage, and better or possibly full voltage at idle (not full current at idle)
it will benifit even more with rewinding
this might make me a bit of $$$$ if i can get it sorted, if anyone is interested pm me i will let you in on it if you promise not to sell my idea and make thousands off it

if anyone has a lighting coil and could measure the voltage at idle, mid revs and 9000 ish rpm that would be quite a help, i would but my bike is toast

if you know how a voltage regulator works you could probably guess what im up to
the magic part is already on its way.....
it wont help much for lights, but for keeping a battery charged it will rock

will be testing as soon as my new battery arrives

can see im not gonna make $ of this so here it is, $35 shipped from china
i was hoping it was a little smaller, a bit bigger than the big trailtech regulator
DC to DC converter, instead of shorting excess power to ground it converts it to higher amperage....
but it will take anywhere from 8 to 40 volts and turn it into 12.38 to be exact, if the imput is too low current the load will drag it down, otherwise its exact 12.38v
the only downside is im gonna need a low resistance battery (or 11 volt batt) cause theres not much diffrence for much current to flow when charging


tested it with a power supply, but will test it on my bike soon
i think the real advantage will be having the battery being charged as soon as the stator is making 7 volts (it says 8 but it goes down to 7) cause in the trails where i overheat im never reving high enough to make over 12 v (current only flows from higher voltage to lower)
so instead of starting to charge at 6000rpm ill be in buisness at 3500rpm
when combined with a higher 225f thermo switch hopefully keeps my fan going all the time
before id get an hour of really tight trails before the battery was too dead to run the fan untill i got some fast riding in
im working with the assumption the stator wont put out over 40v

got it hooked up, and this thing rocks, i am using a 10 volt battery and my voltage converter, at 1100 rpm (i cant get it to idle any lower) it is pumping out 12 volts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
so my battery IS charging whenever my motor is running, before it wouldnt even begin to charge till 3600rpm, and it was way less because when the load is heavy the voltage converter "gears up" to try and maintain 12v
cant wait to try it out next weekend at the chiliwack piston run

completley off topic i entered in the expert class last weekend, rocked 2nd place for 2.5 laps (out of 4) and got stuck in a really deep mud pit, water up over the carb, vacuum locked.
couldnt lift the bike out and it was too deep to get more than 3 inches of a kick in,fried myself trying to get out, 6 minutes later a sweeper comes by and helps me out...
came last out of 7, still fun tho

Lets see this thing all hooked up and installed.
Race sounded like fun!

How much is your stator set up putting out for wattage?

Never heard of a 10v battery, is that special?

Are you running lights or just a fan?

electrex 50 watt

one of these with 2 cells removed, and a bunch of tubliss tape to wrap it back up
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/viewL ... vType=type

just a fan and trailtech vapor, with a normal regulator it wouldnt keep the fan running in the tight stuff when i really needed it

test ran it and my fan starts at 237f and stoppes at 225 ish
real test ride friday, even without a battery the fan will still go at idle, not much but still enough to help and its going pretty good at 3500rpm

its been on there a while and works flawless, my fan draws a lot of current (3.5 amps) and even idling around the battery stays charged, with a regular voltage regulator it would die when i need it most going thru tight trails at low revs for a long time
... too bad the wires got ripped out of the fan, might be able to fix it

2strokesforever, I am really interested in this setup. Do you have a part number or a place I can order one of those dc to dc converters?

Also I am electrically dumb, where would you wire this in, before the ground? maybe a simple diagram of how it works? This seems like a really great idea!

heres what id get, dont get one to match the wattage of your stator cause if you got a 50 watt stator, and its putting out 40 volts at revs then you got 166 watts coming out and you will have issues of some sort.... get the 120 watt

ive never put mine under heavy load (i got the 72 watt, didnt realise the outer casing was the same size on both), just charging the battery to power the fan at 3 amps, it will be interesting to see what happens when you start sucking lots of power

the wiring is pretty self explanatory, 8 to 40 volts DC in, and it spits 12 volts out, that means you need a bridgerectifier BEFORE the dc-dc converter

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-DC-Converter- ... 3cbc632089

also i tested the efficiency, and it is 87% efficient, could be better, but still works excelent

Like I said, I don't understand a lot of this information but I think it should work great for my application. I am planning on using some led enduring fog lights for head lights (2) or maybe one on all the time and a second for "high beam" an led brake/running, and a small led for the license Plate light. I think the headlights pull like 15 watts. I just need a setup that will get me through inspection.

I also thought about adding a plug where I could plug in an additional battery that I charge seperatly if I was going to do some real night riding. Thanks for all your experimenting!