Stop sign cylinder
Stop sign cylinder
I'm pulling apart my 1994 motor here and I discovered the cylinder has the streaks at each stud. Fairly minor blowby marks tracking down the cylinder. It also has a fairly recent looking wiesco .50mm piston that hasn't been drilled.
I've never heard this motor run or performed a compression test/leakdown test.
What im after for info is should I just put it back together for now and do nothing as it looks clean etc....
Should I bore to the next size and new oem or vertex.
Hone it?
Drill the wiesco and run er Til I wanna rebuild it with oem or vertex??
I've never heard this motor run or performed a compression test/leakdown test.
What im after for info is should I just put it back together for now and do nothing as it looks clean etc....
Should I bore to the next size and new oem or vertex.
Hone it?
Drill the wiesco and run er Til I wanna rebuild it with oem or vertex??
Re: Stop sign cylinder
So you basically know nothing about the motor then...........Gmbond wrote: I've never heard this motor run or performed a compression test/leakdown test.
In the future you may want to consider checking the compression before the tear down. Leak test it too. Unless of course you are hell bent on a FULL rebuild.
Have you measured piston to cylinder clearance?
Hope that works first time I've posted pictures
So yea basically other than what I can see I don't know the history of this motor. Someone has done some polish work in the exhaust port but doesn't appear to have really had much material removed so I'm thinking it's pretty superficial work there.
I would have done a leakdown test but the head was already removed and compression test is hard to do when it's not in a bike. I figured for the cost of a base gasket it was worthwhile doing a visual inspection at least.
have you checked piston to cylinder clearance? ring gap, and was it over heated?
Looks like the rings are deflecting / chattering off the top of the exhaust port, I would check chamfer, ring gap and piston clearance.
I would make sure it had coolant, and ensure it was circulating.
I am no pro but I would thing the stud area get the hotest when it overheats, and the gap would tighten up in those locations the most.
That piston is new. I am confident the stop signs were made with a different piston, and that motor had a fresh piston slapped into it without a fresh bore, or even honing it.
Looks like the rings are deflecting / chattering off the top of the exhaust port, I would check chamfer, ring gap and piston clearance.
I would make sure it had coolant, and ensure it was circulating.
I am no pro but I would thing the stud area get the hotest when it overheats, and the gap would tighten up in those locations the most.
That piston is new. I am confident the stop signs were made with a different piston, and that motor had a fresh piston slapped into it without a fresh bore, or even honing it.
- iggys-amsoil
- Posts: 3602
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 6:09 pm
- Location: Just North of March Airfield CA
It's all apart. Do it up right.
What piston is that? Never seen one with groves bt the rings like that.
What piston is that? Never seen one with groves bt the rings like that.
Trinity Racing mild porting FMF
62 pilot, EGH needle, 172 main
03 Gen III CR250 frame
2013 Dodger Charger 5.7 Hemi
http://www.prisonplanet.com
Your Amsoil Customer # 350882
62 pilot, EGH needle, 172 main
03 Gen III CR250 frame
2013 Dodger Charger 5.7 Hemi
http://www.prisonplanet.com
Your Amsoil Customer # 350882
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- Posts: 4394
- Joined: July 4th, 2007, 6:57 pm
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
Roosty gave me a good price on the "vertex makeover" however I've decided to go with my local race machine shop as they've treated me good before and I'm sure they appreciate the business.
I'll try to remember to take a couple of pictures of the job they do and post it up.
On another note I truly dodged a bullet with that wiseco piston. I was looking at it and one of the ring locator pins fell right out!!!
I'll try to remember to take a couple of pictures of the job they do and post it up.
On another note I truly dodged a bullet with that wiseco piston. I was looking at it and one of the ring locator pins fell right out!!!
Bondi Engines
http://www.bondiengines.com/
(despite the similarities between their name and my screen name there is no relation)
http://www.bondiengines.com/
(despite the similarities between their name and my screen name there is no relation)
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- Posts: 425
- Joined: July 31st, 2010, 5:22 am
- Location: Tillsonburg On
Bondi has a huge name in MX and sleds in our area and I've never heard anything negative about them. Probably not a bad choice. If you aren't going to use Roosty, at least that's the right direction to go in. Had the good fortune to ride one of their full on race CR250 motors, a couple of years back, owned by a local dealer/ ex Canadian top 10 pro. That thing was a rocketship! Made my stocker look like a 125. Seems to me it was an 05 bike. Didn't change the powerband any, so it was dead on the bottom and all mid-range, but WHAT a mid-range. Definitely knows how to tweak a motor.
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
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- Posts: 4394
- Joined: July 4th, 2007, 6:57 pm
I would check the work but the tools required to do that are something I haven't invested in yet, so I'll have to trust it's done well.
Just bought a set of the motion pro stud installers and man does that work nice! I've always hated double nutting the studs to torque them, and my stud Puller/installer from mac tools leaves three small indents where it grips the stud so I didn't like that either.
Just bought a set of the motion pro stud installers and man does that work nice! I've always hated double nutting the studs to torque them, and my stud Puller/installer from mac tools leaves three small indents where it grips the stud so I didn't like that either.