Cooling System
#1 Q: How do I tell if my BRP is boiling? Another easy one. When you shut the bike down, you'll hear what sounds like a kid trying to suck the last bit of chocolate milk from a glass with a straw. I run my coolant in the reservoir at the upper mark. If I'm in a very slow section and I get the bike hot enough for the coolant to come within 1" of the top, I can be sure that it will boil if I shut the bike down.
A word of caution. You are better off to get the bike moving and provide air to the radiators than to shut the bike down if it is that hot. By shutting down, you eliminate the supply of coolant to the head, creating damaging hot spots. Even though the bike is liquid cooled, you still need air!
#2 Q: What's wrong with my thermostat? Here's a flaw that Honda doesn't seem to want to acknowledge. The center guide pin of the thermostat slips from it's holder, causing the valve to stick in an almost open position. Most bikes seem to do it sooner or later. Mine made it 2 seasons before finally failing.
Here's a couple places to start looking. The Motorad brand found at Canadian Tire and under the AutoZone name seems to be the one that fits best and even has a dongle already in the bleed hole, making it easier to drill than nothing at all. Either way you go, you want a unit meant for the 1990 Suzuki Swift or some smaller GM cars. The Napa units will fit, but you'll have to compress the cage a tiny bit to make it fit in the housing. Some say they just throw it in and squish it with the housing bolts, but I'm not that brave.
Napa #115 (215 for the 190f 'stat)
Carquest #31978
AutoZone #457-180
Canadian Tire #14-4073-0
(???) MotoRad #239-180 (???)
Be sure to drill a small bleed hole on the rim like the stocker to allow coolant to flow before the valve gets hot, eliminating hot spots in the engine.
Tip: The thermostat can be easily checked, as it uses a rubber o-ring instead of a gasket in the manifold. Just remove the LH shroud to get at it. Fluid can be drained via the 10mm bolt on the water pump.
#3 Q: What does a different radiator cap do? The stock bike comes with a 1.1 cap. Raising the cap to a higher pressure allows the bike to run a bit hotter before it begins boiling. It will also help you high altitude guys even more, as your lower atmospheric pressure aggravates the issue. A KX500 1.6 (Kawi pn 49085-1059) cap will work in this app.
#4 Q:What are my options for coolant? First tip here is to stick with a non-silicate (red or orange tint) coolant.
Just a little sidenote: The BRP is shipped with a green coolant. When swap time comes, don't be fooled. It is a non-silicate coolant, so don't pour just any old green stuff back in. Use the recommended Honda, or a red over the counter non-silicate. Thanks to Jim Cesari for pointing out I needed to clear this up.
Running green non-silicate in your piggy will have two ill effects. First, red and green are not compatible and the additives used to prevent corrosion in the system will cease to work. Green coolant also uses fine silica to "sandblast" any scale buildup in the system. It will erode away soft components and grind down seals.
Some add a "water wetter", such as Red Line, but my vote is still out on that. I can't even get a straight answer as to wether or not you run it with coolant or straight water. There is also a straight glycol (Evans), but that too seems gimmicky to me. It will not boil and does not expand, both of which are very good traits. the drawback there is a 15 degree higher average temperature, according to some thermodynamic calculations done by Rich.
I cannot stand behind either of the coolant options, as I do not have the boiling problems that many have. I'm a firm believer that proper jetting will cure 99.9% of the BRP boiling incidents.
#5 Q: How do I drain my coolant? That's an easy one. The bolt on the water pump that has a 10mm head, a copper sealing washer under it, and is located at the most forward point is the drain. Just remove the radiator cap and pull the bolt. Be prepared, it will squirt farther than that time you pee'd on farmer Goodwins electric fence!
One catch though, the oem skid plate is in the way to do this. John Roberts drilled a 1.5 inch hole in his to allow draining. I believe the ever popular Moose allows access already.
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Engine and Transmission
#1 Q: What do you mean my kickstarter has kicked the bucket? Remember what I said about checking bolts? This is one of them. Pull it, clean it, threadlock it, and check it often. If you haven't, I can almost guarantee it's loose. See FAQ #25. Some riders have actually lost their kickstart on the trail, never to be seen again because the bolt fell out. An expensive lesson!
#2 Q: What is wrong with my clutch bushing? The '00 to ?? bikes have a clutch bushing that doesn't get enough oil. It's prone to fail on low mileage ( tighter tolerances) bikes if you are setting at a stop light or revving the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in more than what normal riding calls for. The bushing only is used when the clutch is pulled with the bike in gear. Signs that it failed are when you are parallel parked in the rear window of the car in front of you at the light, or the bike is lodged in the neighbors garage wall after you were revving it in gear. If it hasn't happened yet, or you fear it will, inspect it and install Honda PN 22116-MBN-671. The 1st version has two oil holes in the central groove, while the revised part has holes in the groove and the raised wear surfaces. I have no solid data as to if the newer bikes are coming with them.
#3 Q: Where is the master link in the chain? Between the beginning and end of the chain! Actually, Honda and Mr. Ogilvie recommend against using a master link on the BRP. They call for a staked link, which is what comes stock. I have run masterlinks without any issues, other than you have to periodically replace the clip as it wears on the chain blocks. You do know the correct way to install the clip, right?
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Suspension
#1 Q: Why doesn't my suspension have grease fittings? I have no idea! My personal opinion is that on a dirtbike they are a waste anyway. You can pump as much super-duper-lithium into your bearings as you want, yet it still will not remove water and dirt. The fresh grease will simply follow the path of least resistance and come out in just one or two spots. Take it apart, clean it and regrease it and you know it is done right.
A word to the wise on greasing. Don't use a lithium base grease. No matter what others tell you, all greases are not waterproof just because they have oil in them. A lithium (plus others) based grease will actually absorb water, even the moisture in the air. It will take on a whitish tint, almost waxy looking, when this happens. Use an aluminum complex grease. It's a bit harder to find than your garden variety wheel bearing grease that all the parts guys sell, but it's worth it. BelRay waterproof is aluminum based.
Aluminum complex is compatible with all others but bentone, but still be sure to clean the old stuff out thoroughly. Tons of info can be found on the net. One good informative site is here.
#2 Q: What are the common suspension mods? The bike is sprung for a 170lb rider. Most of you gorillas will have to buy heavier springs for the forks and the rear shock. Be sure to set the rear shock sag to match your weight with gear. Many change the oil in the forks to a 2.5wt (stock is 5) and crank the clickers in for a plusher ride off road. Of course myself, at 145lbs, need to locate lighter springs!
#3 Q: Which adjuster is what on the shock and forks? For the forks, the one at the bottom is compression, top is rebound. The shock is just the opposite. Here's and easy slogan to remember how the clickers work from some guy named "G" (Glenn B?). "Lefty Loosey, Righty Rigid". Refer to the owners manual for the starting point on these.
#4 Q: What's wrong with my linkage? This a recently found stumbling block that will not rear it's ugly head until you have ridden for a while. It is random in which bikes it attacks, leading me to believe it is a production line error. All years are included. The linkage rides to one side, causing excessive wear to the bellcrank and swingarm tabs. Shims would probably fix it, but I haven't tried it yet.
#5 Q: Can my piggy be jumped? If you're talking whatever obstacle is thrown at you off road, yeah, it can do that. If you plan on trying to race motocross or try to out jump Seth Enslow, you may want to call 911 and have a new set of kidneys waiting on the landing pad.
The big XR is very adept in it's natural environment in stock form. Before you start trashing the poor girl about how you just broke both your ankles trying to make that pass on the triples, show me what Honda brochure told you that the BRP was a motocross bike.
#6 Q: What's this about having "whale snot" in my forks? Because that's what Honda puts in them from the factory. After you have ridden a bit, the forks become harsh and sluggish. Flush them to remove a dark, lumpy, stringy, mess that used to be oil. Don't ask, you don't want to know what they really use. See the next FAQ #30 also.
#7 Q: What about those rusty fork parts? Many BRPs are afflicted with rust on the steel internals of the forks. Check them soon after getting home and get it warranted. If you've got mileage on the bike and find this, you've probably toasted the bushings. See also FAQ #29.
#8 Q: I've crashed and now my forks and triple clamps are twisted! Piece of cake! Usually you can hold the front wheel between your knees and wrench the bars back to where they belong. most of the time, I just find a convenient trailside tree and whack the stuff back into shape. It's not a BRP defect, most bikes do it. Shoulda seen the forks on my XT350!
#9 Q: What's the trick to getting out the wheel bearings? There's a couple tricks to doing this. Easiest (and most expensive!) is to invest in a puller that is designed for this task. It uses a clamshell deal that expands into the inner race and then utilizes a weight (like a dent puller) to jolt things apart. Next method is the redneck way. Use a punch with good edges to snag the inner race of the bearing opposite you (the bearings have to come out and cannot be pushed through) and drive away, working around to keep things coming squarely. If the bearing goes cockeyed it'll bind and put the hole out of round. Problem is, you may not be able to snag the inner race with the punch. Here's how you do it. You have to shove the spacer between the bearings out of the way with a punch, as shown in the diagram at left. Notice that the hub is slightly cone
shaped. You want to drive out the big end side first. Doing it in this order allows you more room to shove it aside and get a better bite on the bearing race.Also, there are four raised surfaces inside the hub, so you'll have to fiddle a bit until you find a spot between the edges that will give you the most room.
#10 Q: Will XR600 wheels fit my pig? Yes. Though I have not done it myself, here's an answer from a group member.
The front ('92 on) 600 wheel is almost identical to the 650 & will bolt straight in with no modification, If you look closely the casting is slightly thicker on the 650 hub, that's the only difference. The rear 600 wheel is also able to be used on the 650, the disc & sprocket alignment is identical (must use 650 disc tho' - 220 vs 240mm dia.) You need to change the bearings to ones with 20mm I.D. & use a 20mm I.D. internal spacer tube, also you can't use the 600 screw in seal on the drive side but you can buy a seal of the right O.D. to use instead & tap it in like the 650 setup.
#11 Q: What's this about seized and broken chain adjusters? This is another case of aluminum in contact with steel that results in a festering mess of corrosion when damp. If you don't log a whole lot of miles, it is possible to go a whole season without having to adjust the chain. That is enough time for the corrosion to seize the bolts into the swingarm to the point where they will twist off rather than undo. Several people have already fallen victim to this, requiring a time consuming and possibly expensive repair. So be smart, remove them while you still can and coat them with an anti-seize compound, or even a layer of grease if that is all you have. This tip is handy ANYWHERE that you have bolts of one material being threaded into an object of dissimilar material. ie: case bolts and the kickstand bolts are both very good places to apply this.
Here's you free brain enlargement therapy for today. The following definition of "Galavanic reaction" will be handy in many ways if you pay attention and apply it to your BRP:
Galvanic corrosion (also called ' dissimilar metal corrosion' or wrongly 'electrolysis') refers to corrosion damage induced when two dissimilar materials are coupled in a corrosive electrolyte. It occurs when two (or more) dissimilar metals (usually steel and aluminum in our case) are brought into electrical contact under water. When a galvanic couple forms, one of the metals in the couple becomes the anode and corrodes faster than it would all by itself, while the other becomes the cathode and corrodes slower than it would alone. Either (or both) metal in the couple may or may not corrode by itself (themselves) in sea water (mud/water/muck, in our app.). When contact with a dissimilar metal is made, however, the self corrosion rates will accelerate or decelerate.
#12 Q: What's up with the index marks for the rear axle? They seem to be off on most of the bikes. A poorly aligned rear axle is detrimental to the dental health of your rear sprocket, but makes it much easier to parrallel park. There are several ways to get it right. You can measure from axle to pivot on both sides, use a long stick laid against the side of the tire to line up with the front, or use something like Motion Pros' tool. I'm not fussy. I eyeball it and call it good!
#13 Q: What's the proper way to adjust my chain? Easy! Here's the preferred method, explained word for word by Geoff down in sunny Cape Town.
To adjust:
Ask one of the following to sit on the bike so that the 3 above mentioned points are in line:
Your biggest girlfriend.
3 of your girlfriends.
adjust the chain to be almost tight. End of garage procedure, continue inside, upstairs or whatever.....
In definition, you need to get the front sprocket, swingarm pivot, and axle all in line so that the rear sprocket is at it's point farthest away from the front sprocket in the suspension travel. This way, if you have free play in the chain at this point, you know the chain will never bind. Then you return the bike to whatever position you normally adjust the chain, wether on a stand on on the kick, measure the chain play, and voila! You now know the proper amount of play needed!
#14 Q: What's the trick to getting out the linkage & swingarm bearings? I use a press and spacers made just for this purpose. Defined? Any socket that is the right size and has a lifetime warranty! But, here's a great tip if you haven't got a press beside the workbench, given by Mike Parker of the group:
I was working on the XR 400 when it came to me. There was a bright light and I looked up and.........no not really. I took a piece of 3/8" all thread, a few fender washer, a few standard washers and a few nuts. I have a few pieces of steel tubing (left over from the swing arm tools). Using a 9/16" ratchet wrench and a box wrench I pulled the bearings and reinstalled amazingly easy. Nut, washer, fender washer and larger od tubing on one side (to receive the bearing being extracted) and small tube (bearing size), fender washer washer and nut on the other side and wrench away. It was a hell of a lot easier than going to my buddies house to use his press.
To reinstall, I set the bearings on the rod with the washer and nuts on either end (no tubing yet) and ratcheted them into place and then used the small od tubing on the bearing end, and the fender washer on the other end backed against the swingarm or dog bone or whatever part I was installing the bearing in. It worked out really well to set both bearings in at the same time on the swing arm. It took about half the time this way over using a press!
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Frame
#1 Q: Why is the subframe of my bike bent before I even crash? Proper term is "Honda Side mileage". That's a free service that Honda does to eliminate first crash sorrow! It effects 99.9% of the BRP's of every year. It is easily fixed with the use of an adjustment tool, aka a 5' prybar.
#2 Q: Why do my subframe bolts strip? Actually, they don't "strip". The threaded inserts are squashed into the frame, and sometimes do not get totally "squashed". They work loose and spin in the frame. BEFORE they do this, get a long bolt of high grade (8.8-9.
that fits. Screw a nut about 3/4" onto this bolt, then add a washer and then thread it fully into the fitting. Screw the nut and washer down to the insert and crank it down while holding the bolt from turning with another wrench. This will clamp the fitting down on the aluminum subframe thoroughly.
DO NOT USE THREADLOCKER on any bolt that uses an insert, including the shroud bolts up front. Grease and proper torque are the proper way to address these bolts. A lost .65 bolt is cheaper than a 200 dollar tank or subframe.
Here's a trick on how to remove these stripped inserts, as given by Gene Lane, Ironman from the 2006 Baja 1000:
I just replaced 2 fenders and most of mine were stuck. I drill a hole right into the sub frame just off to the side of the insert and drive a sheet metal screw up against it as tight as possible. If this doesn't work use a bigger screw. If that don't work drill a second hole on the other side of the insert and wedge a 2nd screw against it. It will usually come off with one screw. Then when you put the new one on don;t put it to tight. Use some silicone around the top of the screw to keep it from loosening. Its worked everytime for me
#3 Q: What bolts and nuts do I need to keep an eye on? All of them! Check you bike before or after every ride! But, pay particular attention to the kickstarter bolt (FAQ #32), rh footpeg bolts (FAQ #31), top subframe bolt, and fender bolts. Use a threadlocker on all but the fender bolts. Put a dab of RTV over the heads of those. See the FAQ #22 as to why.
#4 Q: Is my footpeg really going to fall off? If you don't check the bolts often, yes. The RH bolts stretch and loosen, allowing the peg to flex and weaken the bolts, eventually causing them to break. If the peg works, it will also damage the soft aluminum frame. Replace them with a higher grade bolt and use a thread-locker. I'd almost go so far to say use Heli-coils or Thread-serts. See also FAQ #25
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Electrical
#1i Q: Why is my headlight so lame as to not even draw moths? In the words of Mr. Owl, "The World, may never know." They all use a 35W bulb, which simply isn't good enough. The plastic lens on the cheese ass sorry excuse for a headlight on the NA bikes makes matters even worse. For off road use, NA bikes can upgrade to an identical sized glass lens with a 55W Halogen H3 bulb and socket (PN 33120-MG3-003, or 33120-MK2-671; the MG3 has a better upper pivot mount). For on-road dual-sport use, something like the Baja-Designs light with a H4 55/60W bulb in a DOT approved lens is a better choice.
ED bikes can apparently use a H4 socket and/or lens from an earlier XL to get a 55/60W hi-lo bulb in use.
With only 40% of the stator being used for the headlight, it will be dull at lower RPM when using a 55W bulb. You might be willing to accept that. If not, then use my instructions on rewinding the stator to pump adequate electrons for a REAL light, or send it away to get rewound.
Many thanks to Paul Gortmaker and the many others who input information to make this FAQ possible. I owe you guys.
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If you have questions or suggestions, The Haymaker.please feel free to email me.