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Well I blew my rear shock out last race and I've been waiting to tear this thing apart for a long time and finally got to it. Im going to order new reeds and send my jug off for porting along with my head and carb for some machine work. I didn't get to far today because I no longer have a torque wrench at the moment. I will be grabbing one from work tomorrow and I will pop the head off so I can measure the squish. anyways heres some pics from today. This is the first time this bike will be rebuilt.

Why do you need a torque wrench to dissassemble it?

AlisoBob wrote:Why do you need a torque wrench to dissassemble it?

I need it to torque the head back down to measure the squish. I will take the head off lay a piece of sauder following the wristpin, torque the head back down give the piston one rotation then the machinist will know how much squish there is. Thats why I need the torque wrench Bob.

caseyracing222 wrote: Im going to order new reeds and send my jug off to gss for porting along with my head and carb for some machine work.

cool youll love the new race port with variable transfer . keep rubber mallet handy incase piston gets stuck

100hp honda wrote:

caseyracing222 wrote: Im going to order new reeds and send my jug off to gss for porting along with my head and carb for some machine work.

cool youll love the new race port with variable transfer . keep rubber mallet handy incase piston gets stuck

Funny but I'm not using Glen so I wont need to worry about that

caseyracing222 wrote:Funny but I'm not using Glen so I wont need to worry about that

Smart move....

As far as the torque wrench goes... You can reuse your "allready crushed" head gasket to make your impressions with and the head torque really dosent make a difference.

Torquing the studs just stretches them, it wont make the head any closer to the piston.

AlisoBob wrote:

caseyracing222 wrote:Funny but I'm not using Glen so I wont need to worry about that

Smart move....

As far as the torque wrench goes... You can reuse your "allready crushed" head gasket to make your impressions with and the head torque really dosent make a difference.

Torquing the studs just stretches them, it wont make the head any closer to the piston.

Exactly what I thought and was going to do Bob, but I decided I better do it the way my guy wants me to... It's only a day delay. I went out in the garage and tinkered some more and got the radiators off and the head, then popped the reed cage off, surprisingly theres no cracks and it looks good from eye ball perspective but only measuring instruments will tell. I'm leaning towards re ringing the stock piston if the bore is good or getting another OEM piston? any Input on that would be great, Im not using a Wiseco though...

do it how your guy wants . i just use 4 bolts and tighten with end wrench, dont give a crap if its the right torque. pretty much what bob said. doubtful youll see a .002 difference with/without torque wrench. .002 wont make a shit bit of difference

and whos your guy ?

100hp honda wrote:and whos your guy ?

His name is Pete Krunich

cool. i dont know him but heard of him. seems like a good rider. nothing wrong with using a torque wrench. i done it both ways and found very little difference so i dont bother with the hassle anymore.

Yeah theres quite a few guys that have a motor built by him, they make good power (seat of the pants) I'm not sure about on the dyno.

caseyracing222 wrote:I'm leaning towards re ringing the stock piston if the bore is good or getting another OEM piston?

Nothing wrong with that....

im all for reusing pistons when ever possible. using a old one now with pc9. got 2 more used mahles im saving for down the road. look for cracks and measure for skirt collapse

Post up some pics before you assemble it

Post up some pics before you assemble it

Are you getting your head done buy lefty?

Post up some pics before you assemble it

blownbillybob wrote:Post up some pics before you assemble it

Are you getting your head done buy lefty?

I definitely will! And thats a negative on Lefty

Sorry about t 3 post don't know what the funk is wrong with my computer

Ok I finally got time tonight to try and find how much squish I have, it didn't go so well, I dont think the sauder was thick enough, it didn't squish at all. I was using .120 thick I'm going to switch to lead and use .200. anyways heres a pic of how I set it up, after this I set the piston at the bottom of the bore and torqued the head on and gave it one slow kick so the piston would only hit once. Any suggestions on if I should do anything different? It would be cool if Adam chimed in or someone to his knowledge about this kind of stuff.

dollar store quality funtac, squirt a little wd on the chamber, brake kleen the piston, funtac on the piston, strait above the wrist pin. roll the piston thru and pluck the head off it.
we use funtac every day, valve clearence is the most common place

probly want the solder all the way to bore edge

Roostius_Maximus wrote:dollar store quality funtac, squirt a little wd on the chamber, brake kleen the piston, funtac on the piston, strait above the wrist pin. roll the piston thru and pluck the head off it.
we use funtac every day, valve clearence is the most common place

never heard of it. does it dry up and shrink ? pete may want him to send it with the topend so he can measure himself.

Thanks clyde I will try moving the sauder over in the morning and see if that helps

100hp honda wrote:

Roostius_Maximus wrote:dollar store quality funtac, squirt a little wd on the chamber, brake kleen the piston, funtac on the piston, strait above the wrist pin. roll the piston thru and pluck the head off it.
we use funtac every day, valve clearence is the most common place

never heard of it. does it dry up and shrink ? pete may want him to send it with the topend so he can measure himself.

x2 will it harden for transport? Thanks for the tip Adam You Da Man!