BannedCR500Riders.com

seems like a good idea, no screwing around with a fuel pump or bottle pressures
http://www.boss-noss.com/breakthrough-technology
if i make a hill bike ill polly try it

This guy is full of crap. You need a minimum of 800psi @ 70 degrees to liquify N2O. At 100 degrees is 1100 psi. When this guy says "liquid nitrous @ 300 psi" ... he dreaming.

Also, having a seperate fuel container below the injection point will be a hassle. This container will need to be slosh proof and ventilated as well.

If ANYTHING goes wrong with the vacuum side of the fuel delivery such as running it dry ( a real possibility), clogged siphon line, clogged vent tube, excessive sloshing causing air to enter the siphon tube... what ever..... good by engine.

Will this thing work.. yea. But pretty backyard stuff disguised as technology.

Brit has a real wet system on his bike, it make good power and he cant break the motor. This kit wouldnt last a weekend in his hands..... too much to go wrong.

Ive found that as long as you dont go overboard with the shot size and dial the fuel jetting to the low side of bottle pressure your good.

Whenever Ive upped the jets and got it dialed to the optimum bottle pressure Ive had really unconsistent runs, some will be fast as fuk while others will be slower than a stock 500.....

britincali wrote:Ive found that as long as you dont go overboard with the shot size and dial the fuel jetting to the low side of bottle pressure your good.

Whenever Ive upped the jets and got it dialed to the optimum bottle pressure Ive had really unconsistent runs, some will be fast as fuk while others will be slower than a stock 500.....

Brit runs his bottle at whatever ambient air temperature is, has no clue what jets are what, and somehow doesn't blow his shit up. Yep, he's the poster child for nitrous advice

on edit.. 2strokeforeverdude... If you ever get serious about a hillclimb bike. ask questions and get answers from guys who have them and actually race them. It'll save you a ton of money.

I KNOW these guys, and the guys they have running the stuff. They have thee only thing above the old style systems that works to make nitrous pressure even during a run, no bottle heater or other crap will work like this....

http://www.nano-nitrous.com/

We did alot of looking arround for stuff when we were truck pulling. Its not like the drags where you'd be on the nitrous for 10 seconds or less likely, i was running pulls of 45+ seconds at 175hp and it'd just get fat at the end of the track. we had some trial stuff going on before they even had a name together.

Looks good for any application other than a dirt bike to me Roosty. More stuff isn't good when room is already limited.
I ran a regulator for a while and it sucked. Damn thing lost me horsepower and never ran constinant. Went back to just an in-line gauge and keep the bottle about 900-1000psi. I know pressure drops as you run, but a hillclimb bike isn't on the gas long enough to make a difference.

I forgot to add that a bike is running say a 20 shot -vs- a car running a 150 or better. Huge difference in nitrous flow and pressure drop.

1 20 shot nozzle vs 8 20 shot nozzles is about the same amount of available liquid usage (bottle capacity percentage) when you figure a bike uses a 2.5lb bottle and a car uses a 20lber.

I looked into the nano systems awhile back but would be complete overkill for what I do, it is the best way of regulating the bottle pressure tho.

This guy is full of crap. You need a minimum of 800psi @ 70 degrees to liquify N2O. At 100 degrees is 1100 psi. When this guy says "liquid nitrous @ 300 psi" ... he dreaming.

does it matter if its liqiud or gas? , the bottle is the same, but i think it just regulates it to 300psi before it gets to the nozzle

Also, having a seperate fuel container below the injection point will be a hassle. This container will need to be slosh proof and ventilated as well.

you could always tap into the gas tank

If ANYTHING goes wrong with the vacuum side of the fuel delivery such as running it dry ( a real possibility), clogged siphon line, clogged vent tube, excessive sloshing causing air to enter the siphon tube... what ever..... good by engine.

wouldnt that burn a piston on any nitrous system?

i just like the idea of not having to screw around with fuel pumps and solenoids and shit

Liquid = power
Gas = Shitty running, surging and rich as fuk.

Liquid = power
Gas = Shitty running, surging and rich as fuk.

ok i see now

and if a fricken nitrogen bottle is the only way to have it consistant.... screw that
makes the aerocharger route look better now tho :lol:it even compensates automatically for altitude

dood , your talking silly now, but I have a little street kit GT20 dual ball brg system for a hayabusa for ya if determined

2strokeforever wrote:you could always tap into the gas tank

The gas tank on a dirt bike is above the engine..... it wouldnt siphon UP to the nozzle as its designed to do, it would just flow.... and flow... and flow.

The system looks workable, but its not really suited for a dirtbike,

The gas tank on a dirt bike is above the engine..... it wouldnt siphon UP to the nozzle as its designed to do, it would just flow.... and flow... and flow.

you missed the part about the nozzle being a nitrous activated solenoid, so the fuel valve (in the nozzle) is shut tight till theres nitrous flowing (ha i got one on bob)

i think that tank is if you want to run a different fuel with the spray

but if its gonna suck because of spraying evaporated nos then its not worth it, can anyone else verify that liqiud is the only way to go

dood , your talking silly now, but I have a little street kit GT20 dual ball brg system for a hayabusa for ya if determined

if i do it ill be doing it right with an aerocharger, im done half assing turbo jobs
turboed a 550 scandic sled, worked awesome, just flew @ 5 lbs boost.... till i burnt a hole in the piston 5 miles later

but my friend who owned the sled said it was at least twice as fast, i know the numbers dont match but i was doing 80k up a gravel road without snow, and letting off, before it could barely do 50 on hardpack
so at least i know how important it is to have the jetting on the rich side if your running boost

2strokeforever wrote:Ha I got one on Bob

You did.... I was watching the vid with the sound down, and saw the schematic with the fuel tank at the low point, and in the desktop demo, again, the fuel was at the lowest point.

This thing is interesting, but I still prefer a fuel pump.

Where nitrous gets its benefit is the liquid is a highly concentrated mix of nitrogen and oxygen, when the liquid is injected it expands in the combustion chamber making the compression way higher and thus creates the boost effect.

If you are injecting gaseous nitrous that concentrated effect is lost.

Kinda, its not the expansion in the combustion chamber, its the contraction in the intake tract that leads to the expansion.

Thats why N20 works so much better on 4 strokes.