BannedCR500Riders.com

found a decent deal i think (80$) for a PWK 39 on ebay... got it in today.. just wanting to know what some numbers mean...

BODY - PWK 398BK06
NEEDLE - N 82 M

can i use the jets/needle from my PJ on the bike now ???

thanks
lance

its is from a snowmobile?
big knob on the choke, no hose on the carb bowl, downward 90degree inlet?

that needle is like one i have from a sled pwk is why i ask

Snow Mobile carb is meant to be run off a pump... no workie on a dirt bike.

hope you didnt get the snomo version

just change the float needle if its a snowmobile carb.

Bike needle will not fit in the seat of a sled carb...

Roostius_Maximus wrote:its is from a snowmobile?
big knob on the choke, no hose on the carb bowl, downward 90degree inlet?

that needle is like one i have from a sled pwk is why i ask

choke assembly looks exaclty like the PJ setup without the needle tip...

inlet looks the same as PJ.

its def not a sled carb from your descriptions....

who knows who was doing what with it....

then you're golden

Roostius_Maximus wrote:then you're golden

so can i use that needle or should i just swap over my needle from the PJ ? i really want to try the DGN needle but dont know which way people are going with them (leaner or richer)....

ive rode 2 strokes all my life but have never seen how changing the oil/gas ratio can change jetting (always ran 20:1 in everything ive owned)
anyways took the bike out for its maiden voyage.needed gas so put enough oil for 20:1 in a jar and took it to gas station with me.. poured in oil, filled with 1 1/2 gallon gas, started right up, rode across the highway to the frontage road and it stopped revving..pulled choke and got it back to house, pulled carb, checked everything (very oily), thru the 55 pilot back in it (was a 48- 32:1) and put it back together, started up ok, took up street and it was back to its wheelie pulling self...
first time in my 34+yrs of riding 2 strokes that ive seen the affect of mixing more/less oil... crazy stuff
only reason i added more oil is cause this is a new motor and i figured i was going on a 12+mile road trip around town so ill protect it a little better till i get the gearing figured out...
its going back to 32:1 w/ the 45 pilot soon as i get the PWK cleaned up and ready to install (this week) plug looked great with the 45 in the PJ... will have to check it again once i get the PWK dialed in...

Wow 20:1 Help save the enviroment

Less is more. 50:1

I would start with a 48 or 45 pilot
use the same needle and main from the PJ. or DGN probably better.

iggys-amsoil wrote:Wow 20:1 Help save the enviroment

Less is more. 50:1

I would start with a 48 or 45 pilot
use the same needle and main from the PJ. or DGN probably better.

as i said the 20:1 was for break in and i used to use 20:1 in all my old bikes (gt80 and 81 yz465) ill be running 32/40:1 in this bike... i have 42, 45, 48, 52, 55 pilots so ill keep playing..
thanks
lance

I thought you were supposed to run a bigger main jet for breakin?
As I understand it, more oil constricts the jet?

Tharrell wrote:I thought you were supposed to run a bigger main jet for breakin?
As I understand it, more oil constricts the jet?

Why? Unless you break your bike in at around 3/4 to wide open throttle the main jet never comes into play.

i'd break it in like bob did:
1 - same jetting as he usually runs
2 - warm it til the rads are hot
3 - ride it like you f'n stole it

Tip--run a bigger pilot at break in and use the same oil ratio you'd normally run.

Roostius_Maximus wrote: ride it like you f'n stole it

Thats how you do it right there!!!

pstoffers wrote:

Roostius_Maximus wrote: ride it like you f'n stole it

Thats how you do it right there!!!

Having quality machine works helps .....



If the bore is round, these isnt really much to "Break -In"

You need to get the piston to operation temp...

Operating temp is impossible to reach with super fat jetting and pussy riding around the staging area for a day.

I'll post up how I broke in my last piston, and what the results were....

i was trying to follow JERRY HALLS advice that was posted here since hes a my machinist and i trust his word.... its broken in now so i can cut down on my oil .... less smoke, less spooge at pipe/silencer connection (gotta get the rad hose tomorrow and fix that) and just cleaner reving/running...

plus gotta get the PWK jetted now..

The "Jerry Hall" method is of which I speak...

Jerry is a good dood...

Roostius_Maximus wrote:i'd break it in like bob did:
1 - same jetting as he usually runs
2 - warm it til the rads are hot
3 - ride it like you f'n stole it

yep. using special jets is gay.

you want a big ass jet at first, so you can supposedly protect the engine alittle better ? what are your protecting now, that you wont be protecting later ? can someone explain this because im lost

iggys-amsoil wrote: less is more

more cash in your pocket. thats about it

qkenuf4u wrote:its broken in now so i can cut down on my oil .... less smoke, less spooge at pipe/silencer connection (gotta get the rad hose tomorrow and fix that) and just cleaner reving/running...

plus gotta get the PWK jetted now..

hate to tell ya this but oil content has nothing to do with smoke, spooge or revabilty. when you have correct a/f ratios it makes no difference if you have 16:1 or 70:1, wont be smoke or spooge and revs will be crisp

let me ask you guys something. type "1" if you really believe oil content has anything to do with smoke and spooge ?

if any of you have free time i challenge you to do your own premix experiments like i did. dump some 16:1 in your bike, sort the jetting out and report back the results.

plug checks can be very misleading and difficult to perform unless done 100% correctly, even then i think listening to the motor is a better way but thats off topic and can be put in the corner for later discussion. if you believe in plug chops i want someone to look at this pic and tell me how much smoke and spooge they think was coming out this pipe ??... the answer is none. was 16:1 bean oil. bob is kicked back in his chair saying hold on a minute.... theres alot of black deposits, how can that be . a by-product of bean oil in a combustion process is carbon deposits, nature of the beast.

Looks pretty good Clydester.....

You've leaned it out some since your last photos....

personally looking at that plug it looks pretty dam perfect... but i went from 32:1 to 20:1, changed the pilot out to a 55 from a 48 so it would rev (ie the reason i pulled the carb to see what was wrong) and my plug is nasty now.. ie the reason im going back to a 48 w/ 32:1 (91 oct w/ 927) plus the bike smokes A LOT more and theres def. spooge out the pipe/sliencer connection at 20:1 ... (still need to seal that up-tomorrows project)

also from what ive been told by a long time bike tech/racer the oil doesnt burn .. ie why we have smoke on a 2-stroke.... so the more you put in the more youre gonna get out....

in my case i didnt change out the needle so it could very well be part of the spooge problem... but i kinda doubt it since its the same needle i had in w/ the 32:1 and 48 pilot with very little/no spooge and less smoke...

guess we will find out tomorrow when i get home and can mount the PWK up .....

took a while to get it sorted. old piece of shit carb, had it off/on about 50 times. remeber the 62 pilot and the popping ? scratched my head for a while on that deal. got a 45 in there now. runs the same, pops alittle less. gonna chuck it and get new one from sudco one of these days