GOT MY PWK !!!!!
GOT MY PWK !!!!!
found a decent deal i think (80$) for a PWK 39 on ebay... got it in today.. just wanting to know what some numbers mean...
BODY - PWK 398BK06
NEEDLE - N 82 M
can i use the jets/needle from my PJ on the bike now ???
thanks
lance
BODY - PWK 398BK06
NEEDLE - N 82 M
can i use the jets/needle from my PJ on the bike now ???
thanks
lance
- Roostius_Maximus
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its is from a snowmobile?
big knob on the choke, no hose on the carb bowl, downward 90degree inlet?
that needle is like one i have from a sled pwk is why i ask
big knob on the choke, no hose on the carb bowl, downward 90degree inlet?
that needle is like one i have from a sled pwk is why i ask
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- 2strokekyle
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choke assembly looks exaclty like the PJ setup without the needle tip...Roostius_Maximus wrote:its is from a snowmobile?
big knob on the choke, no hose on the carb bowl, downward 90degree inlet?
that needle is like one i have from a sled pwk is why i ask
inlet looks the same as PJ.
its def not a sled carb from your descriptions....
who knows who was doing what with it....
- Roostius_Maximus
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then you're golden
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so can i use that needle or should i just swap over my needle from the PJ ? i really want to try the DGN needle but dont know which way people are going with them (leaner or richer)....Roostius_Maximus wrote:then you're golden
ive rode 2 strokes all my life but have never seen how changing the oil/gas ratio can change jetting (always ran 20:1 in everything ive owned)
anyways took the bike out for its maiden voyage.needed gas so put enough oil for 20:1 in a jar and took it to gas station with me.. poured in oil, filled with 1 1/2 gallon gas, started right up, rode across the highway to the frontage road and it stopped revving..pulled choke and got it back to house, pulled carb, checked everything (very oily), thru the 55 pilot back in it (was a 48- 32:1) and put it back together, started up ok, took up street and it was back to its wheelie pulling self...
first time in my 34+yrs of riding 2 strokes that ive seen the affect of mixing more/less oil... crazy stuff
only reason i added more oil is cause this is a new motor and i figured i was going on a 12+mile road trip around town so ill protect it a little better till i get the gearing figured out...
its going back to 32:1 w/ the 45 pilot soon as i get the PWK cleaned up and ready to install (this week) plug looked great with the 45 in the PJ... will have to check it again once i get the PWK dialed in...
- iggys-amsoil
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as i said the 20:1 was for break in and i used to use 20:1 in all my old bikes (gt80 and 81 yz465) ill be running 32/40:1 in this bike... i have 42, 45, 48, 52, 55 pilots so ill keep playing..iggys-amsoil wrote:Wow 20:1 Help save the enviroment
Less is more. 50:1
I would start with a 48 or 45 pilot
use the same needle and main from the PJ. or DGN probably better.
thanks
lance
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i'd break it in like bob did:
1 - same jetting as he usually runs
2 - warm it til the rads are hot
3 - ride it like you f'n stole it
1 - same jetting as he usually runs
2 - warm it til the rads are hot
3 - ride it like you f'n stole it
http://www.youtube.com/user/500bigbore
My CR500 Tech Reference... http://sdrv.ms/1a0CIiz
MRE Components... http://sdrv.ms/1bs2zhd
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Roostius_Maximus wrote: ride it like you f'n stole it
Thats how you do it right there!!!
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Having quality machine works helps .....pstoffers wrote:Roostius_Maximus wrote: ride it like you f'n stole it
Thats how you do it right there!!!
If the bore is round, these isnt really much to "Break -In"
You need to get the piston to operation temp...
Operating temp is impossible to reach with super fat jetting and pussy riding around the staging area for a day.
I'll post up how I broke in my last piston, and what the results were....
i was trying to follow JERRY HALLS advice that was posted here since hes a my machinist and i trust his word.... its broken in now so i can cut down on my oil .... less smoke, less spooge at pipe/silencer connection (gotta get the rad hose tomorrow and fix that) and just cleaner reving/running...
plus gotta get the PWK jetted now..
plus gotta get the PWK jetted now..
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yep. using special jets is gay.Roostius_Maximus wrote:i'd break it in like bob did:
1 - same jetting as he usually runs
2 - warm it til the rads are hot
3 - ride it like you f'n stole it
you want a big ass jet at first, so you can supposedly protect the engine alittle better ? what are your protecting now, that you wont be protecting later ? can someone explain this because im lost
more cash in your pocket. thats about itiggys-amsoil wrote: less is more
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hate to tell ya this but oil content has nothing to do with smoke, spooge or revabilty. when you have correct a/f ratios it makes no difference if you have 16:1 or 70:1, wont be smoke or spooge and revs will be crispqkenuf4u wrote:its broken in now so i can cut down on my oil .... less smoke, less spooge at pipe/silencer connection (gotta get the rad hose tomorrow and fix that) and just cleaner reving/running...
plus gotta get the PWK jetted now..
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let me ask you guys something. type "1" if you really believe oil content has anything to do with smoke and spooge ?
if any of you have free time i challenge you to do your own premix experiments like i did. dump some 16:1 in your bike, sort the jetting out and report back the results.
plug checks can be very misleading and difficult to perform unless done 100% correctly, even then i think listening to the motor is a better way but thats off topic and can be put in the corner for later discussion. if you believe in plug chops i want someone to look at this pic and tell me how much smoke and spooge they think was coming out this pipe ??... the answer is none. was 16:1 bean oil. bob is kicked back in his chair saying hold on a minute.... theres alot of black deposits, how can that be . a by-product of bean oil in a combustion process is carbon deposits, nature of the beast.
if any of you have free time i challenge you to do your own premix experiments like i did. dump some 16:1 in your bike, sort the jetting out and report back the results.
plug checks can be very misleading and difficult to perform unless done 100% correctly, even then i think listening to the motor is a better way but thats off topic and can be put in the corner for later discussion. if you believe in plug chops i want someone to look at this pic and tell me how much smoke and spooge they think was coming out this pipe ??... the answer is none. was 16:1 bean oil. bob is kicked back in his chair saying hold on a minute.... theres alot of black deposits, how can that be . a by-product of bean oil in a combustion process is carbon deposits, nature of the beast.
personally looking at that plug it looks pretty dam perfect... but i went from 32:1 to 20:1, changed the pilot out to a 55 from a 48 so it would rev (ie the reason i pulled the carb to see what was wrong) and my plug is nasty now.. ie the reason im going back to a 48 w/ 32:1 (91 oct w/ 927) plus the bike smokes A LOT more and theres def. spooge out the pipe/sliencer connection at 20:1 ... (still need to seal that up-tomorrows project)
also from what ive been told by a long time bike tech/racer the oil doesnt burn .. ie why we have smoke on a 2-stroke.... so the more you put in the more youre gonna get out....
in my case i didnt change out the needle so it could very well be part of the spooge problem... but i kinda doubt it since its the same needle i had in w/ the 32:1 and 48 pilot with very little/no spooge and less smoke...
guess we will find out tomorrow when i get home and can mount the PWK up .....
also from what ive been told by a long time bike tech/racer the oil doesnt burn .. ie why we have smoke on a 2-stroke.... so the more you put in the more youre gonna get out....
in my case i didnt change out the needle so it could very well be part of the spooge problem... but i kinda doubt it since its the same needle i had in w/ the 32:1 and 48 pilot with very little/no spooge and less smoke...
guess we will find out tomorrow when i get home and can mount the PWK up .....
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