BannedCR500Riders.com

M.F.D.B. wrote: Why would you risk using something not even closely designed for the purpose of filtering air?

No shit....... Frickin' Lucas????

I use that there blue sticky stuff in the black bottle

I knew a guy that used to use wd40.

when my dad was crashing at my house, he used to throw down beers in the garage and chain smoke while I worked on my stuff. anyway, one day, he's hanging out while I was cleaning the uni filter on the gen-1, then he watched me oil it up and asked
"why the fuck are you using that expensive stuff to oil your filter?" (he noticed the $8 price tag still stuck to it) then he goes "back in the '70's we didn't have any of that stuff, we just used 30wt motor oil"
I laughed my ass off.

AlisoBob wrote:

M.F.D.B. wrote: Why would you risk using something not even closely designed for the purpose of filtering air?

No shit....... Frickin' Lucas????

Maybe Snake Oil is the ultimate?

Bukakke anyone?

Terrence?

CR500R7 wrote:now theres a thought, CR500R chainsaw.
lets see Honda make one of those.

CR500 Chainsaw:



KX500 Chainsaw:

AlisoBob wrote:Bukakke anyone?

Terrence?

gnarly post bobber...

M.F.D.B. wrote:How the hell did this thread get resurected? LOL

Why would you risk using something not even closely designed for the purpose of filtering air?

so far, i havent found a stickier oil. it doesnt run out of the filter, (unless its balls saturated) and its stickier than any other air filter oil i have ever used. and it catches everything, no grit in the glob of grease in the intake boot.

dannygraves wrote:So, I was trying to figure out what the grinding noise coming out of my bottom end at Dumont was... I lifted my seat and this is what I saw. The last owner said he had 2 rides on that filter before the bike sat in storage for 6 months. I serviced it right before dumont and had maybe 6 rides on it since I did my a/f conversion.
This is a serious hoon tragedy here!

i know this is an old post but you guys should be spraying a bit of airfilter lube on the inside of the airfilter boot. that way when sand or dirt does find its way through or drops in during filter changes, it gets caught up in the sticky lube and not get sucked into the engine. doing this may of saved dannys engine to a degree. whenever i change filters i use a clean latex glove and while the old filter is off i wipe my hand in there(with the latex glove on) and i am able to see/feel if any dirt/dust has gotten through. and believe me, the filter lube has stopped quite a bit of sand getting in over the years.and when i take the carby out to do jetting changes i am able to stick in a few fingers to feel/see whats gotten past the filter. if you look at dannys photos, you can see where the sand has stuck to the grease and oil on the filter frame. now imagine if he had a sticky oily coating on the inside of the boot!!!! he would of caught most of the sand that went into his engine. its a must do if you want to keep your motor fresh. just spray a fine film of filter lube inside there and watch how much sand/dust it catches. its a must do. just my 2c

i hold a pretty high regard for twin air filters on the cr5.they are small compared to the unis but the unis leak where the second part of the twin stage filter doesnt meet all the way up against the boot.its like they need to be glued together.i dont like them. but after seein yours, ive been checking my twin air filter glue every time i clean them

I believe gluing 2 different size foams together is a poor design. If a particle is small enough to get through the outer layer and not the inner it gets trapped between them. How do you get it back out? No level of cleaning is going to guarantee you will.

M.F.D.B. wrote:I believe gluing 2 different size foams together is a poor design. If a particle is small enough to get through the outer layer and not the inner it gets trapped between them. How do you get it back out? No level of cleaning is going to guarantee you will.

i clean them all at once.i have 4 filters and wait till they are all dirty before i bother. i thoroughly wash them with petrol(3 different washes and change the fuel each clean) then let dry.then once dry, i use compressed air to blow out any grains of dirt that are still in there.you can also bang it against a wall. if there is any dirt left, it is held in place by the spray on oil that i squeeze through the filter. i change my filters after 1 dusty ride. in the winter i dont clean them much, no dust

using petrol to clean the filter is exactly what caused the break down in the glue on my old filter pictured here. I either use filter cleaner, or simple green. Fuel or harsh cleaners (acetone, carb cleaner, mineral spirits, etc.) will break down the glue or the filter or both.
BTW, Justin, I didn't find any case cracks, or messed up gaskets, but some of the case bolts weren't all that tight. I snugged them down and refilled the oil and so far low leakage. whos down for a ride next weekend?

dannygraves wrote:using petrol to clean the filter is exactly what caused the break down in the glue on my old filter pictured here.

Gas eats not only the glue but also the foam itself. I have heard 100% Bio Diesel works great tho, havnt tried it yet...

yeah ive been using petrol for years. never had a problem yet. i guess when your filters get to a certain age, you need to replace them regardless. i replace them every 4-5 years of pretty heavy use and ive never seen them deteriorate too bad.point is, spray a little lube in the air boot! it helps.

thestuz wrote: yeah ive been using petrol for years. never had a problem yet. i guess when your filters get to a certain age, you need to replace them regardless. i replace them every 4-5 years of pretty heavy use and ive never seen them deteriorate too bad.

I stopped using gas to clean filters when my UNI (only a year or 2 old) started to show signs of thinning and deterioration. Most filter manufacturers will not warranty a filter failure if you use gas as a cleaner.

thestuz wrote:point is, spray a little lube in the air boot! it helps.

With the velocity of air moving through the air box I doubt 10% of it actually contacts the walls of the shorkle enough to make much diiference. I think its a much better pratice to clean and maintain your filters PROPERLY instead of cutting corners. If you follow these simple instructions you dont have to waste your time making a total mess of your air filtration spraying filter oil where it isnt designed:

Use proper "Air Filter Cleaners" that dont harm your filter.



Get an "Air Box Cover" which is a plastic seal that replaces your filter so you can clean your air box while the filter is out.



Pretty simple really and a whole lot less messy that spraying the inside of your snorkle which pretty much only makes a huge mess that requires removal of the air box to clean. Dont forget that using gas also makes your filter flamable which means a simple back fire can burn your bike to the ground and possibly the garage/house its parked in/near...

M.F.D.B. wrote: Dont forget that using gas also makes your filter flamable which means a simple back fire can burn your bike to the ground and possibly the garage/house its parked in/near...

Definitely not recommended by 15 out of 10 smart people, costs to much to build a bike then burn it.

Plus the garage / house.

CR500R7 wrote: Definitely not recommended by 15 out of 10 smart people

doh! oh well, its saved my engine from eating a few grains of sand that got dropped in from the filter box during a filter change, or some how got past the filter.youll never know what gets past your filter if you dont spray a bit of filter oil in there.but each to there own. and i dont get too paranoid of burning down the bike and the shed during a filter change. i clean the filters in a well ventilated outdoors concrete area and let them dry before oiling them. oh yeah, i ment spraying the inside carby boot that sits between the filter and the carb, not oiling the filter box

This is the stuff I've been using for a few years and it works great!

yeah, I've found the PJ1 works better than the uni cleaner, but it costs more.
I used simple green in a pinch and found it worked REALLY well at breaking down the oil and dirt and didn't smell aweful, so I'm sticking to that from now on

Simple Green is bad ass but it wont touch the stuff I use...just makes a creamy mess...

M.F.D.B. wrote:Simple Green is bad ass but it wont touch the stuff I use...just makes a creamy mess...

Danny knows the creamy mess all to well...

dick!