BannedCR500Riders.com

Posted: **June 18th, 2010, 5:56 am**

very cool stuff Glen!
your work looks top notch

Posted: **June 18th, 2010, 8:29 am**

glen howell wrote:Bob, I didn't mean to high jack this thread ,Would you please move my post about the 720 to my question and answer stickey.

Glen if I moved posts about, to un-highjack threads.... thats all I would do all day!!!

Thanks for the great photos.... Clyde will prolly' now say that their photoshopped...

Fuck him.

GSS=

Posted: **June 18th, 2010, 12:00 pm**

im not going to say anything is photoshopped. the pics he posted was not a 4" piston like he claimed. not sure why glen would write with blue marker on the top of it 4". aparently he thinks your all dummies and will beleieve it. there may be a cr500 out there with that big of piston, but it aint the one in that photo, which he tried to pass it off as such

Posted: **June 19th, 2010, 7:59 am**

2strokeforever wrote:highjack away it dont bother me at all, nice work glen, whats a mild port job and head reshaping worth???,
or roosty do you have more info on your porting, not specs, but dyno sheets if the low end is that much better i might be interested but it have to be a big improvement for me to go with a low mid powerband...

glen I got an idea for a guy like you, its expensive though, aerocharge a 500

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwqwFjWQ ... r_embedded[/youtube]

it builds boost at high idle WITH NO LOAD, and dosent restrict flow on the top end, and it dosent need oil

you would be smoking R1 climbers on a 500 that weighs half as much

only downside is $2500

We are running a 350 single on the dyno right now with a aerocharger 53 series. The turbo is a bit too big for that motor. 500 should be able to get close to 8 to 10 PSI?. Here is the funny part, just looking at peak hp numbers, NA this 350 snowmobile motor makes 64 hp and we hold it for 5-8 seconds on a pull. It is stock, no mods other than a larger carb.

Posted: **June 19th, 2010, 3:19 pm**

sweet, how much boost are you running, and hp, and are you happy with the aerocharger

btw i got a difrent needle 2.72mm dia, richer at 3/4 dont know the rest, but its WAY better
youd think aj would put a needle that works in the bikes he sells
i traded bikes with my uncle and his 250 felt like a 125

after coming off the 500

Posted: **June 19th, 2010, 3:43 pm**

2strokeforever wrote:youd think aj would put a needle that works in the bikes he sells

You would think S/H would do alot of things differently....

We have been running the 1472 needle on this site for years.

Posted: **June 19th, 2010, 8:18 pm**

2strokeforever wrote:I went riding on some big hills and got the jeting better, wow the 500 can shift up on big hills where a 250 needs to shift down, and my bike is geared way higher right now im happy with the power and i know the 250s i draged were only close because there was no traction ( HARD gravel road )

and the reason its not disengaging is because your adjustment is wrong on your clutch cable
please explain, the only way i can adjust from where i am without the clutch slipping is looser which would make my problem even worse

the only thing that bugs me is the stupid clutch can anyone tell me if this is a 500 thing or new bike thing...
I just figured out that I acidently put energy conserving oil in the tranny
thats why you shouldnt work on a bike after a 22 hour day. aparently it can cause the clutch to slip ( it wasnt slipping) im changing it before i ride it again , but i still dont think that is causing my problem, i want to have it fixed before i ride next weekend

THE CLUTCH DOES NOT FULLY DISENGAGE even with the lever pushed to the bars i need to have it adjusted with less (5mm) than the recomended minimum free play (10-20mm) otherwise i cant even shift properly, normaly i use 20mm but i need all the travel i can get

how far should the blue be able to get it geting prety far how long do i have to hold my bike wide open up a steep hill to get a acurate main jet plug test 10, 20, 30 sec? could it be my rich pilot is making a lean main read tan because it takes a bit to burn the black junk off

im a 1200 ish feet 170 main 42 pilot airscrew 2 turns out CCJ needle 2nd from the top
is this way off or does it sound about right

is your service honda built with a newly assembled engine or did you provide a engine if its new are you getting any assistance with problems the clutch problem is bullshit and why didnt you get some spare jets from them lot of money just for a bike

Posted: **June 20th, 2010, 12:01 am**

everything brand new

Posted: **September 11th, 2010, 5:40 am**

holy thread jackoffs batman! haha

did you get the clutch fixed. If its still not disenguaging I may have an answer for you.
On one of my old bikes, my 87, the dealer sold me the wrong clutch plates / fibers or push rod for it,
this was a very long time ago, 20 years ago, I am recalling the stack height was wrong, so I removed a plate.
They may have the wrong rod, or clutch plates in it.

always set your clutch up with 1/8 inch free play, so that it is fully enguaged when the lever is released, otherwise it will be slipping while you ride and will burn up.

Not sure if this helps.

Lyle

Posted: **September 11th, 2010, 9:07 am**

ya got it figured, a lot of it was because of fade magura on there now everythings good, but i will eventualy go with a complete barnett clutch because i still think somethings a little off

Posted: **September 11th, 2010, 9:45 am**

Dont do Barnett. KG Clutch Factory is the OEM for ALL motorcycle brands Jap, Euro AND Demestic and is the same price or cheaper. OEM is always the best for clutches and avoid Aftermarket Carbon or Kevlar as they have tons of aramid fiber and that stuff is super abrasive and bad for your trans. In fact, aftermarket clutch baskets usually have a warning that their warranty is void if you use carbon/kevlar disks...

Some KG Clutch sets are listed as "Kevlar" in OEM applications if designated by the manufacturer (like my YZ450) according to KG the level of aramid in their OEM apps is about 10% that of aftermarket (like Barnett, EBC). So the amount of accelerated wear is minimized but still considered "accelerated"...

BTW, these are not my "opinions" this is info explained from the manufacturer...

Posted: **September 11th, 2010, 9:53 am**

I run the Barnett Carbon.... 1/2 Barnett springs, 1/2 Honda springs.

Love it.

Its 5 years old, acts like it will go another 5.

If it ever fails, OEM or another Barnett Carbon are the only ones I'll put back in it.

Posted: **September 11th, 2010, 9:57 am**

Im amazed with my stocker, its a zero Kevlar as Yamaha didnt start designating Kevlar till like 07 I think, still the stock clutch from 06 and I ride every weekend, OEM ROCKS!!

Posted: **September 11th, 2010, 10:05 am**

THe OEM Honda has the best "feel", but dosent last as long as the Carbon.

Posted: **September 11th, 2010, 10:34 am**

On my CBR929RR, that I used to drag race, I burned up 3 Barnetts in a month before going back to OEM Honda, that OEM lasted several seasons after and was in the bike when I traded it for my YZ450. The worst part was I tossed the perfectly good stock clutch in the trash when I bought the first Barnett...what a dumbass...

I bought an EBC as a spare for my 500 a few years ago (Kevlar I think) before I found out the draw backs, so it collects dust. Anyone want an EBC Dirt Digger cheap?

Posted: **September 11th, 2010, 12:21 pm**

on big power bikes, I like oem w/ heavier springs

Posted: **September 12th, 2010, 7:18 pm**

im definatley going with a Barnett basket and oem for the rest, unless i can find a hinson or Barnett clutch hub

Posted: **September 13th, 2010, 12:56 am**

Barnett aluminum basket with steel reinforcement FTW!

Don't do OEM for the hub, Honda clutch baskets and hubs are made by the same company making their pistons. They are cast CRAP and notch after a few hours, Akadized FTW!

Your SH was brand new right? Look at the basket and hub now and you will shit your pants...

Posted: **September 13th, 2010, 12:21 pm**

2strokeforever wrote:I wanted to build my own, but I wanted everything new (Im sick of riding junk) and bike prices in canada are through the roof.It would cost me more just for the parts to build one than to buy a complete one from service honda.

just before I bought the 500 I looked at last years KTM300 and after everything was said and done they wanted $11 000

I got a carbon fiber skid plate and the spark arrestor thats it, but the $12.5k is after exchange, bad weather shipping fee, tax and shipping so it worked out to $1.5k more than the KTM , and i didnt ask for any jets I assumed it would be close
for you asmericans you could get it for $10 500 and it seems easier to get around taxes there, but then a crf 250 is probably only worth $6000 down there
I got the jetting better, tan plug after wot plug check, the pipe turned blue till halfway thru the second bend , still a little rich at low throttle...

it handles great, killer low to mid, the HPSD seems to work it dosent stop headshake but it makes it really weak, the bar ends only move a inch or 2 if you get it

the things I think could be better:

the clutch dosent fully disengage if you use 2 fingers, adjusted with minimal possible lever free play, makes it really hard to go thru tight trails because when i use 2 fingers for the clutch the bike will stall unless i give it gas and it still tries to creep forward, so i have to use 4 fingers but then i cant pop the clutch to get over a 2ft log because the clutch hand isnt holding on well enough
is that normal for a new bike, or 500 or do you think it was assembled wrong????

the gyro effect I can really feel it, especially after coming off a 125, does 250 flywheel + ignition help this?

when I draged my friends on 250 they would stay right beside me until 4th gear (im a better rider than them), is that normal, or could it be that being on a gravel road made me spin so much that traction was the limit on how fast i could acelerate and more power would just mean I roosted more? I will try on asphalt as soon as i can

it would be nice to have better top end I got 1 days riding worth and I already want more. tan plug after wot plug check, the pipe turned blue till halfway thru the second bend so i know its not rich at wot
is there any way to get more top end power without losing much low end torque or mileage via porting

WHAT IS WITH THE BIKE COUGHING WHEN I DONT KICK IT HARD ENOUGH?????? if it dosent start a quarter of the time it will cough, its not backfiring because my foot dosent feel it when it coughs its just a pop/ phut sound coming out the exaust

heres what i am thinking of getting when i get $$$ anyone do this and what did you notice:
clean up casting flaws,polish exaust port, jet it as close as possible and a 250 ignition... 00 or newer
anyone have a 04 or newer ignition I rode a 04 cr250 and i could feel the traction control compared to a 05 kx and yz 250, i think honda was on to something it worked great(note the TC does not mean you dont spin but it somehow puts power to the ground better than anything else ive rode even with a bald tire )
what is required to make the 04 + ignitions work?

The
04 ignition works well and yes you right the traction control works well also once you actually notice it.The big problem or only problem is the 04 stater plate is a lil different regards to the timing position u need to just file out the advance slots a bit to get more advance and thats it i use the fly wheel the lot from the 04 ignition gen 3.I got all the info from this great site and i cant remember who but i believe it was an ozy guy who figured that it needed alot of advancing but i struggled a bit at first until that coz the timing also affected the carburetor i also used the 250 TPS carb and am very happy with the set up. You will need the help of a good tuner to get the best timing and then jetting for your altitude and so on im in South Africa Johannesburg we are about 1500 m above see level so it wont be good to use my jetting and timing unless you are about the same altitude but the main point is yes it works great

Posted: **September 13th, 2010, 3:09 pm**

kdizzle wrote:My specs again:
01 motor
GSS mx porting
Wiseco 10 over
stock ignition
86 head
99% mx riding
32:1 927 always
pwk41
PC pipe

i have no idea how the hell you guys get away with such lean jetting. If i run anything less than a 55 pilot my bike wont start for shit, and is so ring dingy that it wont rev down in the air during a jump. I run a 60 in the thing and like it.

I run a 182 main in the cooler weather and believe it needs to be leaned out now that the hotter months have come around but I wont go any leaner than a mid 170 or it will ping its ass off.

My needle is a DGG and is right in the middle clip.

My bike pulls cleanly and has no spooge. Other 500 riders comment on how well it runs and a couple folks who have good running 2 smokes comment that my jetting is pretty damm good. it doesn not stop pulling until it hits the rev limiter.

I Ride with another member here who has a 41 and stock 86 motor, same premix and runs very close to my settings. He does have a slightly leaner needle though (CGK)

Maybe it is because I am flogging the bike on the MX track. I dont claim to use everything the 500 has to offer but i do twist up the throttle a bit. I run a PC pipe and use the upper rpm band. In WORCS races I run B class or intermediate class on the local races.

I know the P&P will open up the bike for more fuel but you guys are talking 45's for a pilot, which wont work for me at all.

baffles me every time i read these posts.

I'll second that. I run a 175 main at 3000 ft. at 32:1 and it's not even close to being too rich.

Posted: **September 13th, 2010, 5:47 pm**

just so you know when i ran the 1368 needle and a 170 main my plug was the same color as using 1472 and a 165, with barely any diffrence in weather....
i think the needle was restricting fuel flow a little????????
could be wrong tho

Posted: **September 13th, 2010, 9:37 pm**

Needles by design restrict fuel flow out of the main jet. They partially block the passage until near WFO, just look at the Keihin chart. Also, take the chart with a grain of salt, as I personally have seen that the needle and main jet changes affect idle. So, whenever you have a jet anywhere with a vacuum present, some amount of fuel gets through...

Posted: **September 13th, 2010, 9:47 pm**

Your SH was brand new right? Look at the basket and hub now and you will shit your pants...

i know, havent looked yet but i put a new one in my 125 and it was notched real fast so mine is prolly toast, but if i dont look i can fix it later

Don't do OEM for the hub

what else fits the barnnett basket, can i get a complete barnet 250 clutch and swap plates to oem and swap the ring gear and will it work????

Posted: **September 14th, 2010, 5:34 am**

in one post you want a ported , snorting evil tire spinning motor, and this one you talk about 04 CR250 traction control...I'm confused.

Any clutch plates that fit the stock basket will fit the barnet replacement basket.

Posted: **September 14th, 2010, 9:08 am**

WOW looks like Wiseco, Barnett, and Hinson make baskets but not hubs, that's pretty stupid. There used to be an option but I cant remeber which of the 3 made the hub. Im not sure what it would take to make a steel frame CR250 hub work but I bet it would be the closest. Ill see what I can find out for you...

It may be your best option to send a brand new hub to get it Akadized. Wouldnt be as good as a forged and I dont know what the cost would be to have it coated but it may be less work/cost than going the 250 hub route?

BannedCR500Riders.com

service honda 500