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Re: Stay anf pipe mounts
Posted: December 3rd, 2010, 3:30 pm
by tacoma69
AMA714 wrote:Tacoma... you may get a few hoon´s that would be interested in your stays and other little bits that you make.... I really liked the pipe mounts.
thanx for the intrest, but i have so many projects on the go i dont have time to do all i want! the pipe mounts are easy. you just need some round aluminum stock, a drill and a grinder
Posted: December 3rd, 2010, 10:11 pm
by tacoma69
just adding some pics of the piston and cylinder from GSS. i went full race
as the price was the same for trail porting. i do like to get my moneys worth!
[/img]

Posted: December 3rd, 2010, 10:38 pm
by AlisoBob
tacoma69 wrote:....i went full race
as the price was the same for trail porting.
Looks exactly like the trail porting I sent back. I dont thing theres any difference..... its all the same shit.
Posted: December 3rd, 2010, 11:08 pm
by tacoma69
"Looks exactly like the trail porting I sent back" that dont sound good!!! did i miss something????
Posted: December 4th, 2010, 7:44 am
by Rhino89523
tacoma69 wrote:"Looks exactly like the trail porting I sent back" that dont sound good!!! did i miss something????
"Let the games begin" and the horn sounds off.
There has been a lot of talk about GSS lately on both forums, I guess take a good look at all of your stuff before reassembly. You don't show all that many pictures of the machine work but the little you do show is similar to what others have posted. If you show some more pictures etc. the people who know what the hell they are looking at will probably have comment to the quality of workmanship. There has been a lot of questions about the GSS tooling and the final cylinder finish and yours appears to look the same. There are also a lot of concerns floating around about the quality of the porting work and the clearances between piston and cylinder walls.....don't worry I have a feeling this post is about to get going. Good Luck.
Posted: December 4th, 2010, 9:17 am
by AlisoBob
If the piston will even push through the bore, your one of the lucky ones .
Mine didnt....
Bomber Pilot sent his stuff to Glen, I told him it would be wise to ask Glen to ship it back.
Glens cylinder finish is pretty friggin rough....

This is what it shoulf look like

Smoooth as a babies bottom....
You make the choice.......
Posted: December 4th, 2010, 11:11 am
by dubious01
Wow,
That was quite the falling out.
Every GSS post has been removed!

Posted: December 4th, 2010, 4:23 pm
by tacoma69
dubious01 wrote:
Every GSS post has been removed!

i just noticed that. thats not good!! well heres some pics of my cylinder. what do you guys think?

Posted: December 4th, 2010, 4:29 pm
by AlisoBob
I'd run it for few tanks of gas.... let the rings smooth out the cylinder, re-ring it and then run it for a long time.
I'd also tear up Glens phone number too.....
Posted: December 4th, 2010, 4:29 pm
by tacoma69
Posted: December 5th, 2010, 12:21 am
by 100hp honda
bottom of the ports appear symetrical, not sure what the tops are like. at the least i would put a bore gauge/micrometer on the piston and hole. machine shop will usually do it for 6pack of beer if you aint got the tools. if clearance checks out i would run it. then again you might of got the leaning tower of pizza like bob

Posted: December 5th, 2010, 12:38 am
by AlisoBob
100hp honda wrote:.... then again you might of got the leaning and TAPERING tower of pizza like bob


Posted: December 5th, 2010, 3:10 pm
by tacoma69
ok, i will pull off the cylinder and have it checked. 2 of my friends are machinist's, so that shouldnt be a problem. but i have another problem now. i was trying to see what i need for my air box mods today and put on the carb to see how everything was going to line up. as u can see in the pic, the carb is right against the spring! my spring is a little bit bigger then stock but it shouldnt make that much of a diffrence. what im thinking is its because im running the older cylinder that pushes everything back 8mm further. i am running the newer carb boot, and thought i would put the older carb boot back on to see what it would do. it is a bit shorter but doesnt have quiet as much bend to it and put the carb into the spring even more. what say when i take the cylinder off to check everything i mill 8 mm off the reed block to put it where the newer cylinders are. ideas?

Posted: December 5th, 2010, 3:15 pm
by tacoma69
now that i think about it... i could even mill it at a bit of an angle!
Posted: December 5th, 2010, 3:18 pm
by AlisoBob
When the air boot goes on, its like a rubber insulator between the carb and spring.
I've seen a few that just touch that have never had any problems....
If its leaning on the spring hard, you may have to make some corrections....
Posted: December 5th, 2010, 3:19 pm
by 100hp honda
if you didnt get the motor in the correct side to side location, along with the larger spring= your described problem. hard to tell from pics so its just a guess
Posted: December 5th, 2010, 3:21 pm
by 100hp honda
AlisoBob wrote:When the air boot goes on, its like a rubber insulator between the carb and spring.
I've seen a few that just touch that have never had any problems....
If its leaning on the spring hard, you may have to make some corrections....
by the looks of it i dont think the boot is even going on

Posted: December 5th, 2010, 3:24 pm
by 100hp honda
hows front/rear sprocket alignment ? its most critical part
Posted: December 5th, 2010, 3:28 pm
by tacoma69
the motor alignment is right on. both sprockets are lined up. i would say the carb is not "hard into the spring" but then again its more then just touching.
Posted: December 5th, 2010, 3:35 pm
by 100hp honda
if motor aligment is on then your good. have to build everything from that point. its called a conversion because custom work may be necesarry

. my kicker fit perfect as is, some guys have to re-clock. no 2 frames are the same.
Posted: December 5th, 2010, 3:41 pm
by britincali
I had to swap my intake manifold to the newer type as the older style intake is a different angle and it hit my spring.
I put an 87 motor in a 97 frame and used a 2001 intake.
When you say "boot" are you referring to the aibox rubber piece or the intake side rubber manifold?
Posted: December 5th, 2010, 3:43 pm
by tacoma69
britincali wrote:
When you say "boot" are you referring to the aibox rubber piece or the intake side rubber manifold?
the intake manifold. i did the same, put the newer one on the older motor
Posted: December 10th, 2010, 5:13 pm
by 100hp honda
well does it run ?

Posted: December 10th, 2010, 5:43 pm
by Roostius_Maximus
the 85-88 jugs have a long casting and a short boot, the 89+ have a short casting and a long boot, resulting in the carb spacing from the piston being the same.
A long boot on a long cylinder makes a mess of trying to fit it in an AF, an 87-88 boot has the correct angle to work, and the length gets you back away from the spring. The front left fuel bowl screw will almost contact the lower left boot bolt normally, however far back you are from that is what you've lost for room on the filter side
Posted: December 10th, 2010, 7:29 pm
by tacoma69
100hp honda wrote:well does it run ?

i hope it will one day!!