BannedCR500Riders.com

Jay, take a look at my gen-1 build thread to see the bolts I got. I don't want to clutter up this thread with pics of my bike.

I have they look fine but I was wondering why you use washers on the inside of the frame ?

LOL I asked the same thing, he said that he felt that frame got pulled in to tight. He notified the machinist to make that mount thicker...

Don't pull the frame together, I had bad vibes on mine until I shimmed up one of the lower mounts. Ask pstoffers about his SH bike and how badly the frame being pulled affected vibes.

britincali wrote:Don't pull the frame together, I had bad vibes on mine until I shimmed up one of the lower mounts. Ask pstoffers about his SH bike and how badly the frame being pulled affected vibes.

why do you think I put the washers in there? But, it is still pulled in a little, I will see how the vibes are, I might add 2 more washers. the machine shop has been notified to add 1mm to the back of each mount.

For the record: there should be VERY LITTLE draw-in of the frame cradle tubes when you tighten the front engine mounts. The space is left in to compensate for the manufacturing tolerances of the original frame. The proper thing to do is shim the gaps accordingly.

As for the relocation of the mounting tab on the rear of the pipe: It simply isn't necessary. The better connection is to use a new elastmeric piece that joins the rear of the pipe to the front of the silencer pipe and safety wire it to keep it sealed nicely. That allows the pipe to "float" a bit which is actually a good thing to get a good fit with the silencer. it also helps control the spooge issue by making sure that joint is as liquid tight as possible.

FYI: I ran my gen. one bike without that mount for almost a year and never, ever had a single problem. The best part is, you can then use any standard CR500 pipe you want. Most people who ride trails want the Gnarly...most duners and MX'rs want a Fatty or a PC pipe for over-rev.

ShanMan wrote: The proper thing to do is shim the gaps accordingly.

I think the BEST thing to do would be to bolt the engine and mounts up during mock up and have them tacked so you get the proper clearance, that way you dont have to mess with the PITA shims...

M.F.D.B. wrote:

ShanMan wrote: The proper thing to do is shim the gaps accordingly.

I think the BEST thing to do would be to bolt the engine and mounts up during mock up and have them tacked so you get the proper clearance, that way you dont have to mess with the PITA shims...

na, that wouldn't work out right. I'd rather have the mount hugging the frame when welded the way its supposed to and add shims than have a gap between the mounts and the inside edge of the frame. I had the machine shop add 1mm to the back, which shouldn't be enough to make welding a problem and make them really close. I honestly shimmed a little under 1mm on each side and didn't bring it in enough to get any real resistance.

I think these will be perfect, if not only need a couple washers. On my bike I think I will have to add 2 more washers.

The bottom mount pulls in quite a bit, but didn't seem to stress the frame at all. When I tried pulling the front in without the washers it was a really tight springing action by the frame and right when I got it all the way in I heared really faint "ting" sounds, so I backed it out.

Sounds like your dialing it in. That's the way fabrication goes, takes some trial and error. I agree that pulling the frame in is not good, but a couple washers certainly can't be much of an issue. And sounds like a couple washers down on the lower mounts are needed, doesn't bother me. If that's the way it has to be in order for the kit to be so simple, so be it. I'd rather put ina couple washers on the lower mounts that have to cut them off and weld on new mounts. BTW, I would like to see what Brit did for his conversion, never saw a writup or pics of that.

Ported&Polished wrote: BTW, I would like to see what Brit did for his conversion, never saw a writup or pics of that.

I cheated

My frame was already converted all I had to do was the rear motor bushings, new coolant hose, massage exhaust and new intake.

Must have had help...

Keep me up dated Danny when things come in.
Jay

lewisclan wrote:Keep me up dated Danny when things come in.
Jay

Will do.
The machine shop had some big military job come in that shoved our stuff to the site. I'll keep you updated.

Any chance someone can put those pics and instructions back up again? It looks like they were here once, but the link doesn't work any longer. Thanks

DPinDet

http://bannedcr500riders.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=189

808 renamed it.

dannygraves wrote:http://bannedcr500riders.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=189

808 renamed it.

808 - hah! That is unfair to compare those two, Danny.

LOL poor ol' 808 "uuhh uuhhh uuuhhh"

FYI: I will have 10 fresh sets of Gen. One hardware late this week or the beginning of next. I will also have extra sets of engine mounts (some with the taper, and some without) at the same time. Gen. three head stays and engine covers to follow soon afterwards.

yeah boooyyyyeeeee!!!!!!!

Thank You ShanMan!

Sweet. New to the forum, and it looks like just in time.

PM sent.

Links are broken, can someone throw it up on another server when you get the chance?

: bling :

Mojo, can you find out why the lnks are not working again?

need the links

here are the instructions (you have to copy/paste the link because of the brackets)
http://pho.sunrisehvac.com/AF/CR500AF_G ... Rev_C).pdf

shoot me a PM with your e-mail address for the drawings.