BannedCR500Riders.com

Every time I see you "test" the NOS by hitting the throttle with the engine off I think a "BIG BADDA BOOM" is going to happen next time you start the engine...

yeah, I thought I got shot at one point! I was right behind it when brit kicked it and BANG! Of coarse a while earlier he showed off the nos with the motor off "pppsssttt" "ppppsssttt"

You should have heard it at the bottom of comp when the NOS stuck on, I musgt have spent 15 minutes kicking it just to get a KABOOOMMM every few minutes

Ok Ive been thinking about a new nozzle placement, the intake is a no-go as I dont want it directly hitting the piston anymore. Ive found a shorter nozzle (piranah) and im almost 100% im gonna put it in the transfers somewhere even though drilling a hole in the jug is scarey.


Would it be better firing it straight up the transfer (makes sence) or firing it down ito the crankcase for better distribution?

DeWayne was telling me its all about angle, I will see if I can get some info out of him.

britincali wrote:You should have heard it at the bottom of comp when the NOS stuck on, I musgt have spent 15 minutes kicking it just to get a KABOOOMMM every few minutes

BTW, that one time my ears were ringing for a while afterwards, that was one crazy f-ing backfire!

dannygraves wrote:DeWayne was telling me its all about angle, I will see if I can get some info out of him.

Get me the scoop danny!

I would get a "180 degree" (straight out the tip like a gun) nozzle and plum it into the very TOP of the transfer port so it shoots straight into the "chamber". You dont want to spray 90 degree DOWN the transfers as you are flowing AGAINST the incoming charge. Remember, its only a single cylinder engine, so one side or both shouldnt make a big "distribution" difference. Think of it like this, on a 4 stroke motor with over head valves, the N2O is only coming into the chamber via the intake valves at one side of the "chamber" similar to a 500 with only one injector...

I havent seen any nozzles with a straight shot on the end.

well, just had a long chat with him, he said keep it in the boot.
he said the same thing glen has been saying, said the cold nitrous had nothing to do with the cracks.
he was saying something about the intake boot being good for scavenging, and started getting all technical. when he did the transfers, he said he did both sides. He said you won't notice enough improvement to make it work buying different nossils and going through the effort, a better pipe or larger carb would be money better spent.

also said the vforce reeds are the way to go. but match to boot to the opening.

britincali wrote:I havent seen any nozzles with a straight shot on the end.

glen howell wrote:These cracks come from a internal explosion !

Just saw your post Glen and MFDB...

1. What supposedly ignites this "explosion" ?

2. If the explosion occurs with the piston down ( intake port closed) it would blow out the crank seals.

3. If it occured with the piston up, it would blow the reeds inwards, then the carb off the boot.

Also, consider Brits motor is on the squeeze less that 2% of its running time. ( I'm guessing 1 minute per hour). How is 2 % of the running time going to make the cylinder walls look as they do?

Just askin......

4Z wrote:

AlisoBob wrote:

Cast would work with a wet kit, Boondocker, no way.

Bob, please explain.

Cylinder pressure doesnt kill pistons, detonation does.

With a wet kit, you are adding fuel, lots of fuel from a pump, under pressure. The only reason you inject N2O IS to burn more fuel.

With the Boondocker set up, your relying on bled off nitrous to "pressurize" a gravity fed floatbowl to force more fuel in..... never mind the motor is also trying to suck the floatbowl dry at the same time.

Lean = Detonation = Blammo

Does the Boondocker work? Yea..... Does it work well? Thats a matter of opinion.

I think that the traditional, now so call "wet kit" , is the ONLY way to go.

1. Way more power potential.

2. Way safer

AlisoBob wrote:The only reason you inject N2O IS to burn more fuel.

That simple little statement is something ive learned since installing the kit, you get zero nada zip power from the NOS itself its all about the extra fuel you can burn.


I know it sounds stupid to some but I thought for years that the gas was the go juice.

britincali wrote:you get zero nada zip power from the NOS itself

The cooling effect is responsible for part of the power gain.

True especially in forced induction motors, I was just pointing out that the nitrous itself doesnt burn.

Nitrous = Oxidizer

Gasoline = Fuel

AlisoBob wrote:

glen howell wrote:These cracks come from a internal explosion !

Just saw your post Glen and MFDB...

1. What supposedly ignites this "explosion" ?

2. If the explosion occurs with the piston down ( intake port closed) it would blow out the crank seals.

3. If it occured with the piston up, it would blow the reeds inwards, then the carb off the boot.

Also, consider Brits motor is on the squeeze less that 2% of its running time. ( I'm guessing 1 minute per hour). How is 2 % of the running time going to make the cylinder walls look as they do?

Just askin......

Which post(s) are you reffering to about me Bob?? I only saw questions directed at Glen.

I personally think the cylinder walls look as beat up as they do because of the hole Britt said the battery rubbed in his Air Filter...

Maybe I'm confused... hold the phone...

Yea... I combines Iggy'ss comments about the center of the piston not touching, and your comment about the N20 shrinking it..

I sucked a crap load of sand in my motor when I killed the bottomend and my cylinder walls looked fine, infact I'm still running that topend!
that hole must have been there for a while, in which case, there is no way those bottomend bearings are ok.

AlisoBob wrote:Maybe I'm confused... hold the phone...

Yea... I combines Iggy'ss comments about the center of the piston not touching, and your comment about the N20 shrinking it..

The term is hydraulican,like when it won't compress any more something has to give.and like a diesel mtr. when compresed enough with a combustial fuel you get a internal explosion. I'm not very good at explaining things in writing but I've got 55 years experence in this field of racing .And it's not like any thing else sometimes "Shit Happens" I was only giving my opinion of what I thought happened. The scaring of the cylinder walls came from dirt!!!But if you don't turn your gas off at the end of your ride I can tell you for sure you could cause this condition and also ruin your kick starter and engine cases,As some of you already know. I will try not to try to express myself in the future because I don't like confussion and H&D. Glen (TEAM GSS) NAHA#42

glen howell wrote: I will try not to try to express myself in the future because I don't like confussion and H&D. Glen (TEAM GSS) NAHA#42

Express away glen, different perspectives are always a good thing.


Thats what makes good forums great

Glen, seriously, all the info you can share is always appreciated. We can bullshit about theories all damn day, but very few have the real world experience to know whats really going on!