BannedCR500Riders.com

lewisclan wrote:http://www.pingelonline.com/eshifter_atv.htm

This is the shifter I was looking at

I just orderd it

A motor builder I use builds alot of Suzuki quadzilla 500 motors and the drag race version the way the gear set is really can't be overridden so up till now, they need to use the clutch to shift. One bike in particular (a 650 cc) they used a air shifter just like you bought that used a spark retard to take the load off the motor just enough to shift. This bike was an alky bike on NOS and I believe they blew it up. They found out that it was the spark retard that was being interrupted at full motor load when they were pumping all that alky and NOS in the motor didn't like that split second interruption. That's why on a Honda motor that can be overridden, I would much rather have this done. There would be a million guys in Cal that could do this for you.

I did read you did go to Packard and that was the correct choice for sure. Can't wait to read about how this bike runs once you get it dialed in.

lewisclan wrote:I just orderd my intake from John Howel so I should have it in a few weeks . I guess I need to see where you bolted your pump to and what your brackets look like Paul can you take a few photos and send them to me ?

also what do you think about the ez shift @ pingel

This is a 1998 I did.

This thing is gonna be a friggin animal J, I need the "im not worthy smiley"



I wanna spin when its done

britincali wrote:This thing is gonna be a friggin animal J, I need the "im not worthy smiley"



I wanna spin when its done

Thats the one!!!!!!

[quote="LOVEMYCR500"] That's why on a Honda motor that can be overridden, I would much rather have this done. There would be a million guys in Cal that could do this for you.

quote]

tell me more

Paul do you have a photo of where I should drill & tap for the vacuume pump?

maybe I should get this cyl plated 1st if I maybe going threw some pistions ?

http://www.uschrome.com/cylinder_repair.html

I guess Ill take the Loomis cyl off and ship it out and ask for .005 oil clearance.

http://www.uschrome.com/cylinder_repair.html

I guess Ill take the Loomis cyl off and ship it out and ask for .005 oil clearance.

McCoy's per formance is getting some props on the thread Saber cylinder on the 500 bottom end for the 599 saber. They have done a bunch of CR 500 work and had one of these motors in a TRX 250r frame years ago. They can do the override for you. I don't know their phone number, maybe someone can chime in for that.

This is where I have my vacuum line on my cyl. It's a 1/8" pipe thread brass elbow thats in there, which works nicely with I believe the 1/4 inch fuel line I use. Notice where it was located on the intake... that seems to not work so well from what I've seen... you have to keep the rev's up there to have enough pulse to keep the pump running with the line by the reeds.



PS... Yes, it's filthy... but it's been retired due to fragging the sleeve, so I don't care much

http://www.portmagicracing.com/index.html
I found this guy to do a overide tranny for me 1,2,& 3rd gear ill have to use the clutch for 4th & 5th.
looks like Ill eather ship the pingle shifter back or put it on one of the boondocker bikes.

fastkart wrote:This is where I have my vacuum line on my cyl. It's a 1/8" pipe thread brass elbow thats in there, which works nicely with I believe the 1/4 inch fuel line I use. Notice where it was located on the intake... that seems to not work so well from what I've seen... you have to keep the rev's up there to have enough pulse to keep the pump running with the line by the reeds.



PS... Yes, it's filthy... but it's been retired due to fragging the sleeve, so I don't care much

where would be the best place to drill & tap that port at

I would guess to the left of the 491cc casting, as long as it dint interfere with the reeds.

If you need a constant vaccume the only place would be before the reeds tho (after the carb before the reeds in the rubber boot)

lewisclan wrote:

fastkart wrote:This is where I have my vacuum line on my cyl. It's a 1/8" pipe thread brass elbow thats in there, which works nicely with I believe the 1/4 inch fuel line I use. Notice where it was located on the intake... that seems to not work so well from what I've seen... you have to keep the rev's up there to have enough pulse to keep the pump running with the line by the reeds.



PS... Yes, it's filthy... but it's been retired due to fragging the sleeve, so I don't care much

where would be the best place to drill & tap that port at

If you're asking which is better, reeds vs. transfer - For my application, the best location in the transfer port where it's at. I race it on a kart, and we do a bit of idling around, lining up, etc, but then it's WFO until the checkered. In the reed area (where you can see it's been epoxied) seems to not work as well as the transfer. The pump I run is a rectangular Mikuni, and it operates on the pulse of the motor... which would be stronger where the air pulses more (transer), rather than flows (reeds).

If you're asking where at in the transfer, I'd go with where you see it in the photo. That cylinder came done like that when I bought the motor, but I've also done one myself... On the one I did, I had no diagrams, or anything, I just drilled about where it was on the cylinder thats pictured, tapped it, put in the elbow (with a bit of thread tape and RTV on the outside) and cleaned the hell out of it to get rid of all the little shavings.

If you want more pics of that, I'd be glad to take them and get some dimensions on where it's actually located on the transfer.

transfers, no real vacuum is created at the intake boot at WFO unless you are running an undersized carb. even though it pulses the transfers are where the most vacuum is created.

fastkart wrote:

lewisclan wrote:

fastkart wrote:This is where I have my vacuum line on my cyl. It's a 1/8" pipe thread brass elbow thats in there, which works nicely with I believe the 1/4 inch fuel line I use. Notice where it was located on the intake... that seems to not work so well from what I've seen... you have to keep the rev's up there to have enough pulse to keep the pump running with the line by the reeds.



PS... Yes, it's filthy... but it's been retired due to fragging the sleeve, so I don't care much

where would be the best place to drill & tap that port at

If you're asking which is better, reeds vs. transfer - For my application, the best location in the transfer port where it's at. I race it on a kart, and we do a bit of idling around, lining up, etc, but then it's WFO until the checkered. In the reed area (where you can see it's been epoxied) seems to not work as well as the transfer. The pump I run is a rectangular Mikuni, and it operates on the pulse of the motor... which would be stronger where the air pulses more (transer), rather than flows (reeds).

If you're asking where at in the transfer, I'd go with where you see it in the photo. That cylinder came done like that when I bought the motor, but I've also done one myself... On the one I did, I had no diagrams, or anything, I just drilled about where it was on the cylinder thats pictured, tapped it, put in the elbow (with a bit of thread tape and RTV on the outside) and cleaned the hell out of it to get rid of all the little shavings.

If you want more pics of that, I'd be glad to take them and get some dimensions on where it's actually located on the transfer.

thanks I think I got it

lewisclan wrote:http://www.packardracing.com/

try and keep this kind of info under the radar to the normal public

I am going to try the MaxPower coating,
I am just waiting on 2 pistions to come in to sennd out also

hey jay lewisclan hows this project coming along? got any pictures of the progress yet

dannygraves wrote: the transfers are where the most vacuum is created.

WRONG...just above the piston...

I orderd some new pistons 3 wks ago and just got em. so I wont be sending out the cyl to get plated we are building it back up this weekend I will be running the meth & boondocker as I wont have time before Glen Helen NAHA in just a few weeks to put the N/E N02 system on and get it diled in... not even sure if we will go with the meth as the Pete Lommis motor on c-12 & No2 allready kicks ass and its all jetted in and ready to roll I may just drop in a new set of rings and call it good to go. I did just mount a 14 paddle domanator w- bolts for the event . I have 3 bikes entered and still need to rebuild the peterson bike this weekend