858-272-8122 I posted the ad for the bike earlier. My buddy called him tonight- no answer. Don't push it though otherwise he might catch on.
He said its been in the trader for over a week, no calls. Claims it was posted in the cruiser section hahaha. Hard to find on the net, I forget the keywords I inputed but w/e.
I have to hook up with you guys and do some riding once I get a five hundy. I feel all alone with all my buddies riding their 250's and 450's
your making a wise decision by purchasing a cr5. arguably the best 2stroke dirtbike ever created. power, longevity, tough as a rock, simple yet works everytime. those 450 flatbillers think they got something on the old 500 but they aint nothing but a thing. when it rips your face off in 5th gear and every other gear, and it will if its running correct, then youll know what its all about
You took the words out of my mouth. Had I known the 450's were a basket case, (as far as cost of maintenance) I would have never bought one. I owned an '03 CRF brand new. I have seen the light and its all making sense now
I think its more about showing a combination of amount of use, how it was handled and how competent the rider was. a nasty looking rotor would show that the bike either had TONS of time on it, was abused, or had an idiot rider, any of which could mean the motor suffered the same abuse.
'09 kx450f 4-Poke
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
I'm half tempted to offer 100$ more on the '94 I checked out.~1700$ Especially because its in my area, and the guy has really taken really good care of it. I bet he would go for it....When I he counted my $ he said he was looking more in the ballpark for 1800-1900. Hard cash for a 94.-low use though...
I value my time & traveling. Going to see a shitty bike out of the area could rub me the wrong way. Has anyone "conditioned" the guy? ha.
your setting yourself up for alot of financial grief with that '94 if your going to just rip the motor out of it. go buy a hunk of shit, part the chassis or sell as a roller for whatever you can get for it whether its $50 or $200, dump the rest of your cash into the motor. youll have damn near $1800 wrapped up in that '94 if he even decides to take $1800, which he might hold out for more, then you have to go through the motor anyways to make it super tight, and i gaurantee you wont get much for the rolling chassis even if its in sweet condition. so now you have a $1800 dollar bike, that will only bring a few hundred from the chassis, and you still have to go through the motor and make sure its perfect for your own peice of mind or take your chances and run it the way it is. after the chassis sells and motor is rebuilt depending what you do to it, you will have ONLY a motor that cost you $2000. i can dig out my reciepts what it costs to go through a COMPLETE motor, i did it twice, it aint cheap my freind. and expect the unexpected, what if the crank is junk and needing rebuild, add a few more hundred bucks....see where im going with this. if your leaving the bike in one peice then it might not be a bad deal if its in top shape.
Last edited by 100hp honda on December 13th, 2007, 8:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Eh, thats not really the way I look at it. From what I hear these motors are strong running reliable machines right? I know all the seals are old but thats about it. It flat doesn't have a whole lot of use. I plan on running the complete bike as is, for the rest of the season, to acess its potential needs. I have a good feeling this motor has a lot more life in it. This bike is crisp. But Maybe I'm being a little naive.
And no way I'm going to get 50-200$ for the rolling chassis. I plan on parting everything out on ebay. I think I'll get say...500$ parted out? maybe more? I had a buddy who parted out a non-running, clapped out '95 YZ 250 for 700$! So Im estimating I'll have 1000-1200 in the motor, electrics, carb, pipe/silencer when everything is sold off. The peace of mind IM getting is knowing the previous owner cared for the bike and not having to gamble with a beater, plus having to rebuild it. I want plug and play!
that '94 sounds nice... I can understand not wanting to travel...you have to think about how much your time is worth, theres that nice '91 by me, but how much time and gas would it take you and how much is that worth? I still think $1700 is steep, but if it is as clean and tight as you say and runs so well, I would go for it. When you get ready to put it in your new chassis, pull the reeds to look for a crack and signs of blowby, if there are none and the clutch and trans are fine and healthy, just install it and RIDE. I've made the mistake a number of times being too meticulous and not having a bike to ride because I wanted peice of mind when really, these motors are rock solid and give plenty of warning signs before they leave you stranded on a trail.I would offer him $1700, but ask to pull the reed cage first. 1 philips head driver and a 10mm wrench you can pull it and look for the crack, if there is a crack or signs of blowby, it will need a topend, let him see that, then see if he will take $1500. a topend is around $200 anyway, so you would come out the same. If there is no crack or signs of blowby, then you have yourself a good motor and might as well give him the $1700.
my .02 anyway.
I'm a huge penny pincher, but can also understand not wanting to deal with a basket case.
'09 kx450f 4-Poke
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
i think i came across to you guys all wrong. i wasnt trying to talk you out of the '94 per say. what i was trying to say is if you going to pull the motor anyways, buy a hunk of shit and put all the cash into the motor, versus paying for a nicer bike.
when its all said and done
1: '94 bike- $1200 dollar used motor that appears to be rock solid, and it probly is except it still has 10+years of use on it
2: cheaper hunk of shit bike- $1200 dollar brandnew motor that you built yourself and know whats in it
I'll have to do that for sure. He claims it has a new top end in it. If so I'll ask for the receipts before I ask to pull the cage.
...Long time since I owned a 2 smoke. Pulling the reed cage involves unscrewing the 4- 10mm bolts on the intake and disconnecting the carb front from the intake boot right?
receipts dont meen shit. i have a stack a mile high. i can buy 10 more cr500 and show them to every tom dick and hairy thats buys my bike. doesnt meen i put the parts in that particular bike. and if some dude asked to take my reed cage out id laugh in his face. maybe youll have better luck though
Im not trying to get in a pissing match, but if he has recent receipts for a particular honda part# , possibly a description of the item, what kind of scam would he be trying to pull. Doesn't seem like a shady guy. If I end up getting the bike and it turns out to be a POS talk as much shit as you want
If your going to ride it for any legnth of time, I can see wanting a nicer bike.
Your time is worth WAY more than you even know.... Good call.
Pulling the carb is way easier with the seat off, and sub frame swung up. Take a 8, 10, and 12mm. Makes you look like you know what your doing.... and its quicker too.
Clyde is speaking his mind, which is what THIS site is all about. If you get butt hurt from his comments.. thats your problem...not his. Hearing another perspective is always good.
These motors are so tough, its crazy. Troy Lewis rode his for a year with the piston in backwards ( bought it that way. GOOD REASON TO PULL THE BLOCK< HEH?). Brit zipped around Arizona for a weekend with enough metal in his crankcase and tranny to choke Linda Lovelace. Never missed a beat.
If its a runner when you test ride it, clutch is smooth, and if you get to pull the reed block...and things look good...... buy it and join the party....
...the waters fine!
p.s... These motors do make a fair amount of mechanical noise. Dont be surprized if it sounds like a diesel. How much noise is very hard to describe in text... You be the judge.
If it is a stock bore & needs a top end I have a new piston/ring set I will let you have cheap, that way you can be well under the $200 top end figure. All you would need are the gaskets @ a wrench.
Go that way real fast, and if something gets in your way...............
