Clutch basket

[2strokeforever]

why not just go all wiseco

i dont care what kind of aluminum the wiseco is made from, the fiber tabs are gonna slide over SS with less friction, alu/ alu dont slide that great

my pressure plate has probably 30+ thou wore off it, the wiseco will be tougher, the steel barnett will outlast 5 wisecos

going wiseco with the hub cause by the time the "face" is worn the splines will be notched

after my first clutch went south i measured the wear on the aluminum drive plates and it was 9 thou each, the pressure plate and hub face are expected to have the same amount of wear, on clutch #4 , so 36 thou a side, so thats 70 thou total.... thats not good, less spring tension, and the clutch arm has to pull farther in and sit wrong

[2strokeforever]

so i decided to put the complete 250 clutch on... roosty is right the 250 pushrod is too short, and the 500 one is too long, you only need to shorten the 500 one a few mm

all this was done in panic mode trying not to be late for work (mistake #1)
mistake #2 was not testing it, so i loaded up and went to work, unload the bike at the riding area and it feels like its hard to turn over, fire it up and it wont idle
so i pull it apart and i notice the lip on the clutch basket is rubbing on the top of the inner clutch case, about 1/8" too much to race clearance, got to ride so i bomb start it with the side cover off and choke on, grab a file and "machine" the lip off the basket ... after it was cleaned good and put back together i went for a ride
no more clutch drag, dosent seem to be slipping, cant hear any unhappy noises
if you are doing a 250 clutch conversion check very carefully (and before going riding) that the basket dosent hit the clutch cover

heres what im running
cr 250 basket (has to be machined), hub, pressure plate, inner gear, washer in between the basket and hub
cr 500 clutch rod shortened a few mm
the clutch bearing, bushing, throwout bearing are the same on the 250 and 500