Posted: December 9th, 2009, 6:47 am
Takes 5 minutes.... 4 if you have your grinder already plugged in....RideRed wrote:Thats strange that the results are so hit & miss...I hope I don't have to.
BannedCR500Riders.com
Addressing the survival of the legendary CR500!
https://www.bannedcr500riders.com/
AlisoBob's Gen 4 A/F Conversion
Page 18 of 22
Posted: December 9th, 2009, 5:36 pm
It takes you a minute to plug a cord into a receptacle? Can't decide which blade goes into which slot huh!AlisoBob wrote:Takes 5 minutes.... 4 if you have your grinder already plugged in....RideRed wrote:Thats strange that the results are so hit & miss...I hope I don't have to.
Posted: December 9th, 2009, 5:53 pm
Naaaaaaaaa....... I need to unplug your wifes "Vibrator Octopus" first....sabreguy wrote:It takes you a minute to plug a cord into a receptacle? Can't decide which blade goes into which slot huh!
Posted: December 9th, 2009, 10:24 pm
I'm not even going to ask.
Posted: December 10th, 2009, 3:06 am
Heres the basics of forming the fuel tank for a CRF250 based conversion..... starting with the tank itself
That lump is what causes all the problems, it interferes with the spark plug, and the coolant hoses.
To correct this, you need to reform this lump into a depression. I'll describe the best method I've found to do this...
What dosent work? Heating up the area you intend to push on.... Its gets too soft, too sticky, and you'll end up pushing right through...
What does work? Heating up all around the area you wish to reshape, letting the heat migrate, and pushing on the center, which is still relativly cool....
The white ring is the area you want to heat up..... and by heat.... I mean HOT!!!! Hot like you can smell it... It takes a while, I use two heat guns ( Which is why there are no "action shots" on me doing this task) Pay close attention the the areas at 9 o'clock, and 3 o'clock. Your asking the material in these areas to move considerably. What your trying to acheive is making this convex shape, concave. These two areas are your biggest concern.
The area you will push on is just to the left of the left side bolt that holds the outlet in place. You will need the outlet attached, as if you try to form the tank with it missing, you will never get it back in.
So, the outlet is in, you have allot of heat available, and you have the balls to potentionally ruin your new $200 fuel tank... lets begin!!
I do it with the tank on the floor, nestled between some 4x4's to keep it rocking around.... this is for the first portion on the heating.
Start heating it up... it takes awhile.... keep the heat moving, and focus on the 3 and 9 o'clock positions... did I mention to get it really HOT ?
Keep going, and ocasionally give it a test push. I use a wooden hammer handle. If you have to use much pressure, its nowhere near hot enough.
At some point, its going to get pliable. Push with the hammer handle, and the area should feel like its going to spring in, and form a depression. If the depression is forming unevenly, apply more heat the the side that is giving the reesistance. If the heat is HOT enought, and well balanced.... it should not require much effort at all.
KEEP HEATING THE 3 AND 9 O'CLOCK POSITIONS!!!!
When you think the time is right, give it a push.... I move the 4x4's out of the way, and "grasp" the fuel tank with my shoes while I push. It should flatten out, then spring inwards. DONT FORCE IT!! Add more heat if needed.
If its hot enough, it will pop right it...... It will look something like this....
Once the depression is formed, hold it in place with the hammer handle, and dump cold water on it to cool it and make the plastic take a set.
Anyone spot the fuck up in the photo??? Yup, not enough heat at 9 o'clock...
No biggie, and its not worth trying to correct. The area that needed moving has enough room. Its all risk with no reward to try to reheat the tank for this small conmetic issue.
Here's a "Before and After" side view....
Fits perfect..... no big deal..... remember.... Heat is your best friend to do this correctly!!!!
That lump is what causes all the problems, it interferes with the spark plug, and the coolant hoses.
To correct this, you need to reform this lump into a depression. I'll describe the best method I've found to do this...
What dosent work? Heating up the area you intend to push on.... Its gets too soft, too sticky, and you'll end up pushing right through...
What does work? Heating up all around the area you wish to reshape, letting the heat migrate, and pushing on the center, which is still relativly cool....
The white ring is the area you want to heat up..... and by heat.... I mean HOT!!!! Hot like you can smell it... It takes a while, I use two heat guns ( Which is why there are no "action shots" on me doing this task) Pay close attention the the areas at 9 o'clock, and 3 o'clock. Your asking the material in these areas to move considerably. What your trying to acheive is making this convex shape, concave. These two areas are your biggest concern.
The area you will push on is just to the left of the left side bolt that holds the outlet in place. You will need the outlet attached, as if you try to form the tank with it missing, you will never get it back in.
So, the outlet is in, you have allot of heat available, and you have the balls to potentionally ruin your new $200 fuel tank... lets begin!!
I do it with the tank on the floor, nestled between some 4x4's to keep it rocking around.... this is for the first portion on the heating.
Start heating it up... it takes awhile.... keep the heat moving, and focus on the 3 and 9 o'clock positions... did I mention to get it really HOT ?
Keep going, and ocasionally give it a test push. I use a wooden hammer handle. If you have to use much pressure, its nowhere near hot enough.
At some point, its going to get pliable. Push with the hammer handle, and the area should feel like its going to spring in, and form a depression. If the depression is forming unevenly, apply more heat the the side that is giving the reesistance. If the heat is HOT enought, and well balanced.... it should not require much effort at all.
KEEP HEATING THE 3 AND 9 O'CLOCK POSITIONS!!!!
When you think the time is right, give it a push.... I move the 4x4's out of the way, and "grasp" the fuel tank with my shoes while I push. It should flatten out, then spring inwards. DONT FORCE IT!! Add more heat if needed.
If its hot enough, it will pop right it...... It will look something like this....
Once the depression is formed, hold it in place with the hammer handle, and dump cold water on it to cool it and make the plastic take a set.
Anyone spot the fuck up in the photo??? Yup, not enough heat at 9 o'clock...
No biggie, and its not worth trying to correct. The area that needed moving has enough room. Its all risk with no reward to try to reheat the tank for this small conmetic issue.
Here's a "Before and After" side view....
Fits perfect..... no big deal..... remember.... Heat is your best friend to do this correctly!!!!
Posted: December 10th, 2009, 3:37 am
Farkin excellent, thanks Bob!
Posted: December 26th, 2009, 12:49 am
So, I mounted my Scotts damper....
The bracket fits snugly around the steering stem, then uses one on the upper tank bolts to lock it in place. I like the compact nature of the "Sub Mount".. it keeps everything stiff. I cant tell you how much deflection I see in some of the Steelie installs I have come across. That post is flopping around, all over the place!!!! The hole in the bracket closest to the stem is the stock 250X tank mounting hole, thats NOT the one I'll be using....
The tank I'm using is a Acherbis CRF250R tank. It fits perfect, except for the location of the mounting hole
Use the bushed hole in the tank to position the drill right where you needthe new hole in the frame to be
Holes drilled, everything fits like a glove.
Once the hole is drilled, remove the tank to tap it.
A good shot showing how compact everything is....
All bolted together, fits purrrrrfect.
A huge thanks goes out to Yota for sending me this damper. Its old and faded a bit, but mechanicaly its tip-top.
Thanks man!!!!!
The bracket fits snugly around the steering stem, then uses one on the upper tank bolts to lock it in place. I like the compact nature of the "Sub Mount".. it keeps everything stiff. I cant tell you how much deflection I see in some of the Steelie installs I have come across. That post is flopping around, all over the place!!!! The hole in the bracket closest to the stem is the stock 250X tank mounting hole, thats NOT the one I'll be using....
The tank I'm using is a Acherbis CRF250R tank. It fits perfect, except for the location of the mounting hole
Use the bushed hole in the tank to position the drill right where you needthe new hole in the frame to be
Holes drilled, everything fits like a glove.
Once the hole is drilled, remove the tank to tap it.
A good shot showing how compact everything is....
All bolted together, fits purrrrrfect.
A huge thanks goes out to Yota for sending me this damper. Its old and faded a bit, but mechanicaly its tip-top.
Thanks man!!!!!
Posted: December 26th, 2009, 1:44 am
That's funny as shit right there.AlisoBob wrote:So, the outlet is in, you have allot of heat available, and you have the balls to potentionally ruin your new $200 fuel tank... lets begin!!
Nice write up on this and the damper Bob.
Posted: December 26th, 2009, 5:53 am
AlisoBob wrote:
So, the outlet is in, you have allot of heat available, and you have the balls to potentionally ruin your new $200 fuel tank... lets begin!!
or you could by a R7282 type spark plug
then if you want more clearance you put in an r model fuel tap
Posted: December 26th, 2009, 9:55 pm
I need to unplug your wifes "Vibrator Octopus" first....
I'll go there,
are there anymore pictures of this intriguing octopus requiring device.
I'll go there,
are there anymore pictures of this intriguing octopus requiring device.
Posted: February 2nd, 2010, 4:06 pm
"35k hit " bump....
Posted: February 20th, 2010, 6:19 pm
Great write up. I appreciate the info which i know will help with my upcoming build. I have the motor and electronics off the 98 cr500af i bought last summer. I want to put it in a gen3 or gen4 frame. My gen1 will rattle your teeth. In the first page of the build you have a 02 cr250 pulled apart also. Did you put a cr500 motor in it too? If so how did it fit and how much modifying was involved? Thanks again for the great info.
Jason
Jason
Posted: February 20th, 2010, 9:55 pm
http://bannedcr500riders.com/board/view ... le+crackerjayj500 wrote:In the first page of the build you have a 02 cr250 pulled apart also. Did you put a cr500 motor in it too? If so how did it fit and how much modifying was involved? Thanks again for the great info.
Jason
Posted: February 28th, 2010, 10:57 pm
AlisoBob wrote:
I've just noticed that you have the CR250R stickers on your rad shrouds and not the CRF ones.
Nice touch!
Posted: March 15th, 2010, 11:18 am
bump for my selfish purpose...CR500R7 wrote:OK this might save some confusion when stuffing a CR500 engine into these frames.
The Std CRF250 04-09 uses a 49mm on the left and a 59mm on the right, with the CR500 engine get a 54mm for the left side and you are done.
The Std CRF450 02-04 uses a 49mm on the left and a 54 on the right, with the CR500 engine swap right to left and get a 59mm for the right side and you are done
The Std CRF450 05-09 uses a 46mm on the left and a 54mm on the right, with the CR500 engine swap right to left and get a 59mm for the right side and you are done.
The Std CR125 02-07 uses a 54mm on the left and a 59mm on the right, with the CR500 engine you are good to go as is.
The Std CR250 02-07 uses a 49mm on the left and a 54mm on the right, with the CR500 engine swap right to left and get a 59mm for the right side and you are done.
Part# for the 54mm bush is 52142-KZ4-J40, left side of swingarm.
Part# for the 59mm bush is 52141-KZ4-J40, right side of swingarm.
If any of this is incorrect, please let me know so I can change it before any mistakes are made.
on a serious note, I wonder why I wasted the last 3 years on KTM's, and will be really happy to get all over a new CR500AF conversion for myself.
The CR500 development has really come to light over the last 4 years, since i sold my own built 1st Gen CR500AF, you guys have done great with this site, really good info, and some light hearted humour too.
Thank too all the hoons!
Posted: March 15th, 2010, 1:45 pm
I rode a 300EXC a few times, I really liked that bike.
Posted: March 15th, 2010, 6:21 pm
yeah, mine was a 505XCF... nice power especially in the grease
Posted: March 15th, 2010, 8:55 pm
Looks like Bob used a sharpie to shade in the FCR500R7 wrote:AlisoBob wrote:
I've just noticed that you have the CR250R stickers on your rad shrouds and not the CRF ones.
Nice touch!
Posted: March 16th, 2010, 12:03 am
Now you mention it.Posted: March 17th, 2010, 2:27 pm
These are my graphics
Posted: March 17th, 2010, 6:55 pm
Those look cool i would like to get some like that how much?
Posted: March 17th, 2010, 10:17 pm
$300xr650killer wrote:Those look cool i would like to get some like that how much?
Posted: March 17th, 2010, 10:57 pm
AlisoBob wrote:$300xr650killer wrote:Those look cool i would like to get some like that how much?
An thats a BRO deal there
Posted: March 17th, 2010, 11:54 pm
pstoffers wrote:An thats a BRO deal there
Its the Doosh-Bag deal, for those who want something, while they bite the hand that feeds.....
xr650killer wrote:
[this is]...... for all the people that hate.
Posted: March 18th, 2010, 12:41 am
AlisoBob wrote:pstoffers wrote:An thats a BRO deal there
Its the Doosh-Bag deal, for those who want something, while they bite the hand that feeds.....
xr650killer wrote:
[this is]...... for all the people that hate.
Thats what I said