BannedCR500Riders.com

If you really want to run a two sided head stay on a gen. one bike I suggest getting two thinner ones made from steel rather than trying to run the thicker aluminum plates. I ran an FEA model on the headstay I designed and I got it as thin as it can be and still have a safety factor if 2/1. The steel plates will be stronger and thinner, which is a premium on this bike as the tank clearance at the headstay it the biggest issue of the whole build.

Further, I respectfully disagree that the two plate headstay is a better design than a chunky one piece. The trick is to get the loadpath as close to symetric as possible from the back of the head to the pickup tabs of the frame. The gen. one was the most misaligned...the gen. three and the gen four frames are the best.

Bob's point about using washers where necessary is a good one....even better if the washers can be bronze or brass. The galvanic reaction of aluminum to steel when wetted is a problem over time. Ever seen a swingarm bolt that looked like it was turning to white powder?

ShanMan wrote:If you really want to run a two sided head stay on a gen. one bike I suggest getting two thinner ones made from steel rather than trying to run the thicker aluminum plates. I ran an FEA model on the headstay I designed and I got it as thin as it can be and still have a safety factor if 2/1. The steel plates will be stronger and thinner, which is a premium on this bike as the tank clearance at the headstay it the biggest issue of the whole build.

I respectfully disagree that the two plate headstay is a better design than a chunky one piece. The trick is to get the loadpath as close to symetric as possible from the back of the head to the pickup tabs of the frame. The gen. one was the most misaligned...the gen. three and the gen four frames are the best.

I'm fine with the single head stay you designed/engineered. I have not ridden a AF500 with a single or a double head stay so I have nothing to compare it to nor can I have a opinion on the matter. I think I can handle the Vib.’s Like you said the money will be spent in having a professional do my suspension.

ShanMan wrote:Bob's point about using washers where necessary is a good one....even better if the washers can be bronze or brass. The galvanic reaction of aluminum to steel when wetted is a problem over time. Ever seen a swingarm bolt that looked like it was turning to white powder?

Thanks for the tip on the bronze or brass washers, I was just going to get some washers at the hardware store. There is a slight gap so I will be putting a washer on both side if necessary. Instead of just tightening the bolt and creating unnecessary tension on the frame.

hoofarted wrote:Congrats Raul! Glad to see its coming together finally! Hope all is well with the family! Post some pix up of your progress....

Thanks Hoofarted, I'm working on the tank mods now I'll post some pic's when I get it finished. My Gen. 1 would have been finished by now if I hadn’t picked up a Gen.2 Service Honda roller from a hoon here on banned (spent my project $$$ ). He pulled the engine out of the SH and sold me the SH AF Roller for a good deal , I could'nt let that AF sit outside and rust any longer. So once I get my Gen one built I'll start a thread on my Gen.2 Restoration Project here in the near feature.

Rue wrote: I could'nt let that AF sit outside and rust any longer.

AlisoBob wrote:

Rue wrote: I could'nt let that AF sit outside and rust any longer.

I know, I know, Bob. You no Like the SH AF.... But I got it at a good price shipped. I can find a CR500 engine for it, enjoy it for a while and then sell it and maybe make a lil profit for my Gen. 1 AFC Fund: New Suspenders, Fund my 2011 Hoon fest , awesome shit like that!! Cut me a little slack.

Aluminum oxidises, ferrus metals rust.

Be sure and document your gen 2 build. I'm considering an AF and a gen 2 would give me a frame with handling characteristics I know and a spare engine for my 250.
I would really like to know how the 500 changes the handling of that frame or any other gens.
Great job btw.

AlisoBob wrote:Aluminum oxidises, ferrus metals rust.

Sorry Bob I'm not a metallurgist, I did say I was a normal guy in the beganing of my post and thats why I went with a gen. 1 build. The roller came with a PC pipe and it was rusting along with the swingarm. Bearings are seized and rusted. I guess i should have stated that instead of "I could'nt let that AF sit outside and rust any longer". I was talking about the AF as a whole (Complete Rolling Chassis).....

This is what I was refering too:

Tharrell wrote:Be sure and document your gen 2 build. I'm considering an AF and a gen 2 would give me a frame with handling characteristics I know and a spare engine for my 250.
I would really like to know how the 500 changes the handling of that frame or any other gens.

I sure will, I want to see how it compares to the Gen. 1. If you are ever in the area or we meet up at Hoon Fest you can take them both for a !!! Hopefully I can keep Both and not have to sell her!!!

Tharrell wrote:Great job btw.

Thanks, I really just have to mold the tank, PC pipe and rebuild the engine and I'm done with the My Gen. 1 Build!!!!

Looks like Britincali owned this bike....

AlisoBob wrote:Looks like Britincali owned this bike....

I will start a thread on the restro as soon as my Gen. 1 AFC is done. PM'd you the link from the guy I picked it up from.

HA!
Brit can't be this bad.
Ever seen brake pads worn completely through and the piston was rubbing the rotor?
I couldn't believe what I was seeing when we took the rear caliper off a 2005 CRF450.
Hearing this guy on the brakes was like fingernails on a chalkboard.
Like they say, can't fix stupid.
I like to think it's natural selection at work.

nice build,in my eric gorr book it says kawi sells shim washers for the headstay that work good for everything, and if i could go back suspension is one of the first things i would spend my $$ on

missed you on chat

Never Tried an Obstacle like that!! do you have to bring the front end up first?

most the time my front tire dosent even touch, gotta hit it fast and pin it, or bail

Good work. Keep your welder employed! those welds look sweet.

homenf wrote:Good work. Keep your welder employed! those welds look sweet.

Thanks, Oh yeah Don is going to help me with future builds for sure!!

When I got off today I had received this via UPS today. Eric a.k.a. SolidBro your the MAN!!!! The Quality and Craftsmanship is top notch!!


SolidBro Replaced the upper and lower sigots(notice the diamiter of the lower spigot is the same diamiter as the Factory CR500 Rad) Attention to detail VERY , and added the upper right spigot.








Looks better then factory and that's how I wanted it!!! CHECK OUT THEM WELDS!!!


I was so excited to put it on and....




I come to find out that I can't get the Rad on!!! Due to me not researching and doing my homework!! SolidBro even asked me before he welded the Right Spigot "do you want the spigot straight up and down or angled to the Right". Me not knowing I said go ahead and weld it straight up and down. Bad Fucking idea on my part!!! I should have asked someone, but most of the Gen. 1 builds that I've seen use a slitter of some sort.


The spigot hits the f'n frame rail...







I was thinking of heating the elbow and bending it 45° or so to the right??? Would I F' it up and Restrict the flow?
Any Ideas Guys, please let me know..

Send it back and I will make it right. ?

[quote=""SOLID Bro!!""]Send it back and I will make it right. ?[/quote]

Thanks Eric!!! I really appreciate it. I was just going to try to heat it & bend it, I didn't want to bother you. It was my dumb ass mistake. I will get it out to you on Monday. PM sent


Thanks,
Rue

Rad installed!!!
Right spigot:

Lower spigot from rad to pump.

Left side spigot:

Left side spigot different view:
\

Ordered a Vertex Piston (thanks for the heads up Roostius_Maximus) and a Hot Rod for the 88' with the moolah I got for my b-day!!!! I had the crank checked out and the local shop and they said it was within spec. but I figured that I had replaced every other bearing might as well repalce the rod and lower bearing as well...

Rue wrote:Ordered a Vertex Piston (thanks for the heads up Roostius_Maximus) and a Hot Rod for the 88' with the moolah I got for my b-day!!!! I had the crank checked out and the local shop and they said it was within spec. but I figured that I had replaced every other bearing might as well repalce the rod and lower bearing as well...

You gonna have the crank assy balanced while you're at it? Who's doing the crank?

hoofarted wrote:You gonna have the crank assy balanced while you're at it? Who's doing the crank?

No I wasn't planning on balancing the crank. I was just going to send it out to have them press and true new connecting rod in the crankshaft. I would rather put that money towards my suspension. I was thinking Glen Or someone locally being that I'm not having it balanced.

Rue wrote:

hoofarted wrote:You gonna have the crank assy balanced while you're at it? Who's doing the crank?

No I wasn't planning on balancing the crank. I was just going to send it out to have them press and true new connecting rod in the crankshaft. I would rather put that money towards my suspension. I was thinking Glen Or someone locally being that I'm not having it balanced.

From people I've talked to, it is really difficult to get the crank true again once disassembled, if not near impossible. You may want to look into balancing it - just what I've heard.

hoofarted wrote:

Rue wrote:

hoofarted wrote:You gonna have the crank assy balanced while you're at it? Who's doing the crank?

No I wasn't planning on balancing the crank. I was just going to send it out to have them press and true new connecting rod in the crankshaft. I would rather put that money towards my suspension. I was thinking Glen Or someone locally being that I'm not having it balanced.

From people I've talked to, it is really difficult to get the crank true again once disassembled, if not near impossible. You may want to look into balancing it - just what I've heard.

I talked with Roostius_Maximus and he said that as long as they have the proper tooling capabilities and know what they are doing, a connecting rod kit can be installed true. I appreciate the heads up hoofarted and that is what this site is all about helping one another out. I'm going to try just a new rod and I will repot back with the results.


I was able to cancel the order for the Hot Rod and order the Wiseco instead. RM recommended this because its closer to matching stock weights.

got any pics of the wiseco rod ? never seen one before. i been using hotrods and prox. wanted to see the difference between all 3