BannedCR500Riders.com

AlisoBob wrote: The Pro's know what to do with their left hand...

I know a few pros (Best in the Desert) who use auto clutches...Saves a lot of energy (lessens arm pump and fatigue drastically)

AlisoBob wrote:I would miss the compression breaking when it freewheels....

Then simply set up the clutch engagement so it doesnt freewheel...

AlisoBob wrote:I rode one once , didnt care for it.

Thats the most honest and useful statement ive read in this thread...

M.F.D.B. wrote: Then simply set up the clutch engagement so it doesnt freewheel...

Its has to freewheel at some point, thats why it wont stall to motor.

AlisoBob wrote:

M.F.D.B. wrote: Then simply set up the clutch engagement so it doesnt freewheel...

Its has to freewheel at some point, thats why it wont stall to motor.

Not exactly, you can set the clutch so that the bike will "roll" at idle, just like a car or truck with an automatic trans. Doing this means that there is enough back torque and clutch drag to keep the bike engine braking, which you wouldnt want to do on a 2-stroker (CR500) anyways...

Honest, I didn't mean to turn this into a Rekluse thread.

Has anyone else tried the G2 throttle cams? I bought the set last year while recovering from some broken ribs and needing all the help I could get. By now the slowest cam feels really mellow, borderline boring. To anyone wanting a mellow 500 that's the ticket.

I currently prefer the middle cam which good for sandy tracks.

Tommy_J wrote:Honest, I didn't mean to turn this into a Rekluse thread.

You can't even mention them without sparking a debate.

Lesson learned?

M.F.D.B. wrote: Not exactly, you can set the clutch so that the bike will "roll" at idle, just like a car or truck with an automatic trans. Doing this means that there is enough back torque and clutch drag to keep the bike engine braking,

Sounds like a great way to toast the clutch, and boil the tranny oil..... no thanks.

Bob....

I'd be surprised if most gncc guys are not running autos. The ST guys I know in the northeast say they are like cheating and love em.

Back to MX. They are MUCH smoother than a regular clutch. Either will get the job done. I won't ride MX without one.

First thing I love about them is going into a tight corner, a 2'nd gear corner for small bores and 4 bangers, run it in third, on exit when you crank the throttle on and she doesn't pull hard just pull the clutch lever with 1 finger about 1/2" in and let it go, no finesse, just dump it. The auto will perfectly slip the clutch for you. Instant warp acceleration with predictable wheel spin. The pull is only compared to pulling the lever with no cable attached, overriding the auto is like carrying a bucket of air.

Second thing is third gear starts are now perfect every time.

Third thing, going into corners waaaay to hot is easier, things get intense and are happening very quick if you hold the hammer down longer than normal on any bike especially a CR5, not having to worry about when you hit the rear brake or how hard you hit it make it easier to focus on going in deeper and hitting the line right. Riding this hard there is no need for compression braking.

Set up is key, I ran mine with the stock supplies amount of TC balls, the heavy ones, 6 and hated it. I bought 6 more and upped it to 12 and it was awesome. CR5's don't spin to many rpms and the balls are run off centifical force, ie rpm. I dont' think rekluse did enough R + D on the CR5 to realize they need more but I'm not running a stock motor either.

14/47 is smooth, 14/51 makes 4'th hit real good with a good running motor.

One of my favorite aspects is that you can brake stab without worrying about stalling the motor if your foot is faster than your clutch fingers...

I have Moose aluminum tubes on all my bikes except the CR80 and I use 1/4 turn cam on the CR250 (MX only), standard cam on the YZ450 and CR500 (mostly trials/single track desert) and "Precision" on the CRF250R (my girls bike). Very noticeable difference and sweet tune ability!

First step, in my opinion, deck the head (some 100 octane required), Gnarly pipe, Fly wheel weight, "precision" throttle cam and you will be amazed at the low end, impossible to stall, very controllable throttle.

To make the bike a dream, all you need after that stuff is an auto clutch and hand brake!

I race in NM/Colorado with about 400 riders... not a single auto clutch

AlisoBob wrote:

M.F.D.B. wrote: Not exactly, you can set the clutch so that the bike will "roll" at idle, just like a car or truck with an automatic trans. Doing this means that there is enough back torque and clutch drag to keep the bike engine braking,

Sounds like a great way to toast the clutch, and boil the tranny oil..... no thanks.

The WORCS number 1 plate runs a rekluse pro. FACT (i asked his mechanic myself)

Caselli also runs a rekluse.

Bobby Bonds - Rekluse

The unit is solid and lots of pro's are using them. So lets go ahead and end that debate/FUD now.

It was 115 out in phx this last week and i have had no overheating problems.

If you are trying to start offf in 5th gear with the thingg, well you might overheat it, but then your a tool anyways.

there is no loss of engne braking when setup properly.

The only time the clutch completely disengages is when the bike is about to stall.

If your not running a rekluse your missing out. The thing is awesome on a cr500 motor.

kdizzle wrote: If your not running a rekluse your missing out.

Were not missing a thing....

well the topic of the thread was CR500AF for MX and i think the MX guys have spoken up.


I think there are 2 different philosophies on overall setup.
1. Gnarly pipe, FWW, tall gearing, mild porting - use the torque of the motor and try to control wheelspin, getting great traction is priority

2. PC pipe, 250 ignition, 41pwk, High RPM porting – let her rip and ride that biatch like a 125

Not trying to insult anyone but I think the faster riders, or serious MX riders will gravitate to setup number 2.
Folks running number 2 setup with the 500 hard on the pipe will be looking for more control and a lighter clutch which can be achieved with the Rekluse.

I too am through with the Rekluse discussions.
- you can lead a horse to water but you can’t make em drink

I would rather discuss the 250 ignition and flywheel weights for MX at this point.. I have a 93 250 ignition and flywheel I am about to try.
Maverick27 on this site believes his bike turns sharper and handles lighter with the reduced flywheel weight, also the ignition increases over rev, which the 500 could use for MX IMO.
The only reason I hesitated so far is I know he had a bitch of a time getting the jetting and timing right, and my bike is running so tits now.
Anyone Running the 250 ignition for MX?

I am also curious about the G2 throttle cams though. I changed the throttle cam on my RC51 with much success. I may have to look it up.

PC pipe, 99 250 ignition timing straight up, 39 PWK jetting was not too bad to dial in, air screw works and it even idles. Have not noticed a lot more over rev then before, but I will say I love the lighter flywheel effect in every aspect.

The main thing I don't like about a rekluse is that at very low rpms she freewheels with my set up and on a CR5 not having that super low rpm pull and engagement is NOT helpful. I guess it can be tuned out according to bearoso but he runs all 27 TC balls.

My 01 CR250 ignition is smooth untll she wakes up, then all bets are off. Pretty aggressive MX set up stock. If I ever get my shit together I'll get a MSD programmable CDI and can have different maps for different soil.

I would think a smaller carb would be smoother than a big one for MX. Other would know better.

I SAY RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT

Pauly's right hand is pretty bored on a hllclimb ( Pinned)... its his left hand thats doing all the work.... Right, Paul?

True D'at

Pauly's got da' skillz....

Thanks to All with an opinion. I raced the bike at Mammoth this year with a 39 PWK, PC pipe and 94 CR 250 ignition. I think the main problem was I ran 14/51 gearing like my 450. I was between gears on some parts of the track, so yes, I think I might try some gearing at 14/48/49? I do some suspension testing for a local company and we are still dialing in the rear. I ran the forks off my 450 with many hours of testing and they worked flawlessly. We will still work on the rear and I will post results.

cmotodad wrote:Thanks to All with an opinion. I raced the bike at Mammoth this year with a 39 PWK, PC pipe and 94 CR 250 ignition. I think the main problem was I ran 14/51 gearing like my 450. I was between gears on some parts of the track, so yes, I think I might try some gearing at 14/48/49? I do some suspension testing for a local company and we are still dialing in the rear. I ran the forks off my 450 with many hours of testing and they worked flawlessly. We will still work on the rear and I will post results.

I am running a 14/48 set up and really do not know if I like it Some times I find my self in 2nd when most are in 3rd. Maybe I just need to find the smooth spot and ride the band without fear

I will have to to get some more track time to dial it in!

eyesky2002, thats an excellent avatar

14/51 is awesome for MX but can be a bit abrupt in low gears, I love it using 4'th.

14/51 is what i'm running

asteroid500 wrote:14/51 is what i'm running

x2