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If you look real close, you can see a slight distortion in the cradle.

This is where it was pushed foreword.

AlisoBob wrote:

If you look real close, you can see a slight distortion in the cradle.

This is where it was pushed foreword.

Front engine mount on the cradle??

lower engine mount pressed down so the exhaust would clear the Y. no cutting/welding the Y

dannygraves wrote:lower engine mount pressed down so the exhaust would clear the Y. no cutting/welding the Y

Ahh, I see said the blind man...

dannygraves wrote:Lower engine mount pressed down so the exhaust would clear the Y. No cutting/welding the Y

Not quite, the "Y" still needs a little trimming ..

I'm post some finished photos tomorrow.

M.F.D.B. wrote:Ahh, I see said the blind man...........

..........to the deaf boy who nodded in complete agreement.

I'm a FORD man, but I have a few of those laying around from the Toyota race truck days. Thanks for the help, even though you give me a bunch of shit! You hard asses are going have to organize a ride day when all these bikes are done!

97af wrote:

M.F.D.B. wrote:Ahh, I see said the blind man...........

..........to the deaf boy who nodded in complete agreement.

AlisoBob wrote:
K.I.S.S.

I like it

lewisclan wrote:

AlisoBob wrote:
K.I.S.S.

I like it

Keep it simple stupid??

lewisclan wrote:

AlisoBob wrote:
K.I.S.S.

I like it

You cant even get a business card in there with Shanman's mounts..

well, I pulled out my $40000 tool today and did a little adjusting on the cradle. Once I got it chucked up right it went ok, I'm just a little nervous tweaking aluminum as all my fabrication experiance has been with steel.

Carefull with aluminum, it yeilds suddenly...better to go little by little and look real close!!

it will usually tell you right before it goes with some high pitched tinging type noise...be careful.

It cooperates quite nicely...

You got those Y pics there Bob?

Also, the temper of the aluminum is key: fully annealed (T-0), half hard (T-3) and fully heat treated (T-6). 6061-T6 requires VERY generous bending radius so as not to crack, and it also requires a significant amount of over-breaking due to the spring-back of the material. The general rule is the softer the material, the better it works.

This is why most metal working is done in the annealed or half-hard state and then the piece is stress relieved (normalized) and heat treated after fabrication to maximize the strength of the final part.

ShanMan wrote:
This is why most metal working is done in the annealed or half-hard state and then the piece is stress relieved (normalized) and heat treated after fabrication to maximize the strength of the final part.

http://www.bannedcr500riders.com/board/ ... .php?t=995

AlisoBob wrote:



Step three: Jam in into the frame and start cranking until you have spread it enough to fit the mounts in.

This also helps allot in routing the coolant crossover hoses without doing the "Up and Over" path.....

IMPORTANT UPDATE!!!!



I was doing another Gen 3 frame this way, and encountered a problem.

The cradle was manufactured by Honda with a different profile and curvature than Uncle Crackers.

In a attempt to push it to the required location, it cracked.... much as Shanman described above.

It could have been the material and heat treating, or the fact I was pushing pretty heavy in one spot, and not making allot of little bends.

Regardless..... USE THIS METHOD AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!

I hogged the Y out first, warmed it up a bit and then chucked it up in a few spots..... it went pretty well.

Excellent work Mik329!!! I like that jig too!! Another tool that should be made available to all those converting frames. Maybe build a upright to hold a ring simulation the exhaust port and head stay locations..and that thing would be off the hook!!

Thats the exact method I used.... BUT not the same result.

The frame I broke fractured directly in front of welded pad for the lower, left engine mount.

Maybe it was broke to begin with?



WTF, It's repaired and soon will be pack with its owner..

Mik329 wrote:I hogged the Y out first, warmed it up a bit and then chucked it up in a few spots..... it went pretty well.

That looks really good. Do you have any pics of the Y from the front?

Thanks.

That is cool. If I was gonna guess how to make that jig, this is how I'd do it. Using the stock cr500 frame, you bolt the tubing peices into the forward mount, the bottom mount and th rear swingarm mount, then weld in the cross members. Then just take it out, bolt it into the new alloy frame, and tweak until the front mount location is in the proper spot. Is that what you did?

Man.... I LOVE the brainpower on this site.... Not endless questions about what kind of air do you put in your tires.... But real stuff you can sink your teeth into!

Banned Hoons RULE!!