BannedCR500Riders.com

Oh your right, I brought a 90 ignition for $62 and it crapped out but I'm getting my money back. I am getting this build done for under $2500 My parents are straight out of the Great Depression. (I think we are close to 1 now) and I do squeak when I walk but I don't care. Actually I'm a little proud of it. If you seen some of the deals I have walked away with. My personal best. Complete Penn House dinning set NEW YES NEW IN THE BOX $558.00 ($558.00 not a typo) at an online auction. Table, chairs and China Cab. $ about $10,000 worth of furniture. I'm putting an ignition on that 2 LOL

Live buy the 4 R's
Ridem
rippem
roostem
repairem

Bruce

That's the great thing about the internet, you can find groups like this one that are all into the same thing. Thn you search the adds for deals and build your projects. My latest buy was a diesel truck and on a local board I have got all my accesories from the guys used, I love that.

I used a 1" bimetal hole saw bit and a drill press to do mine. took less than 10 minutes, I just kept it moving in a swirly motion and very slowly lowered the bit. it came out rougher looking, but got the job done.

What year did you use Danny? What about the seat of the pants report?

it was a '03. I had issues with it, but later found out I had a bad coil. the 500 analog ignition worked with the bad coil better, for a while anyway, so I blamed the ignition, but I think that digital ignition was just more sensitive to the coil resistence.
I will be selling this complete '03 ignition is someone with a gen'3 wants it, it will all bolt right on and comes out clean as hell. I already removed the wires from the power valve from the harness and siliconed the connector, so there isn't a big bundle of wires. I should test it out again on my gen-1 before I sell it.

dannygraves wrote:I should test it out again on my gen-1 before I sell it.

Ya you should. On second thought, better not. Because then you'd realize what it felt like to have balls again...since you've been officially neutered with that 4-poke...douche.

Would you be selling the whole shit and shabang? Meaning the coil, stator, flywheel and ingnition box/wiring? And if so, let me know what you need for it.

Put me second in line if he falls through, I can paypal cash asap. Shit it's getting hard to find the 250 setup anymore.

it would be everything except the coil, but a stock coil from any honda '87+ should work.
it would include the stator coils and plate, flywheel, wire harness w/ cap. and regulator and CDI w/ mounting bracket. it would make a super clean install on a gen-3.
Throw me some offers I'll snap a shot or two when I geta chance, and give it a test run on the gen-1 with a known good coil.
The newer 250 and 125 coils with the blade connector plug right into this one w/o any modification.

Danny are you no longer running the Digital system?

If not why.

I never ran it on my gen-3. I tried once, bike ran like shit. I put oem on and it ran better. after tons of tuning problems I found that my coil was bad. Replaced the coil and sold the bike, so I never tried the ignition again.

Danny,
Theres a point...Does anyone know the OHM's for the Digital 250 coil and 500 Analog resistance to test if your coils strong.

I"ll add this info to the 250 to 500 CDI tread

HI all,
some one PM'd me a few weeks ago saying the 250 ignition would need to have the "static" timing done alittle different to how i figured as it would not be a true TDC using the factory case markings (500) against the stator plate markings (250) and the retardation issues would come and bite me on the arse...Mick & Danny please feel free to chip in.

I believe the 02 and up have the flywheel timing tab in the wrong position,
The timing curve will be way off.
Same thing with a cr125 flywheel. But the 125 cdi does work with a 250 stator/flywheel

i had a 94-96 250 system on a 500 i bought about three ago,[ been fitted by someone else] i personally think the main gain everone is raving about is due to the lighter flywheel , bit like the differance of removing of a 12oz flywheel weight , it does not make any better spark
can comment on the newer digatal systems but will still probably have lighter flywheel

This is what was suggested in a Pm by Gregrobo...

"i found the thread did you check the timing on your ignition
a part of your thread has been left out the timing is actualy out 11 degrees and it makes it preignite and run hot and has a flat power witch is crap but once the hole in the backing plate is slotted out further it really comes alive have you done this because running the bike in summer could be a disaster"
greg


MIck, Danny...did you find this in your conversions.
It's great to see others tessting our mods.

Greg did you slot your plate, if so weres the pics mate.

donovan35 wrote:i had a 94-96 250 system on a 500 i bought about three ago,[ been fitted by someone else] i personally think the main gain everone is raving about is due to the lighter flywheel , bit like the differance of removing of a 12oz flywheel weight , it does not make any better spark
can comment on the newer digatal systems but will still probably have lighter flywheel

have not tested a 94-96 ignition but I will say the 2000-2001 do have a stronger spark.

using the same ignition coil my readings on the primary side of coil

1993 ignition at 6000 rpm draws - .55 amps measured w/Fluke 75
peak to peak voltage - 189 volts measured w/Fluke 123 scope
RMS voltage at stator - 41 volts measured w/Fluke 123 scope

2000 ignition at 6000 rpm draws - .79 amps measured w/Fluke 75
peak to peak voltage - 285 volts measured w Fluke 123 scope
RMS voltage at stator - 66 volts measured w/Fluke 123 scope

i havnt had a chance to take it apart yet we have been having to much fun riding them. we are playing with carbs at the moment. and i should have corrected that pm by saying we had to retard it by 11 degrees

Greg post some pic,s & how to do it.....
Just add it to this thread.

Well with all the talk being that.....the timing will be out if you replace your standard ignition with a late modle unit ive done some home work of my own....
PLEASE remember i'm using the 1999 CR250 digital systym, complete from high tension lead to stator & fly wheel.


If you place your CR500 stator plate on a piece of paper & take a pen and out line the backing plate also stenciling in the mounting points & the center of the pick up you will end up with a rudermental picture much like this one below.


Now place your Digital stator plate over the stenciled drawing you've just made and you will find it is 100% identical in ALL its mounting & pick up points,the line going from the center of the backing plate to the pick up point of the stator (@ 2 o'clock) runs strait threw the center of the pick up also


Now ive fitted the Digital stator to the motor with the 2-10mm bolts tightened in the center of each hole...well actualy the bottom 1 isnt elongated like the top so only the top was tightened in the dead center & to my suprise look were the timing mark and indicator meet up.


So unless the 250 ignition is in a differect state of advance or retardation, "THERE IS NO REASON WHY THE TIMING SHOULD BE OUT"
in its static TDC (top dead center) position.

check the flywheel thats where the difference is keyway to pick up we used a 01 250 ignition and 01 500 engine

I THINK ITS ALL COVERED HERE

http://bannedcr500riders.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=8389

thestuz wrote:I THINK ITS ALL COVERED HERE

http://bannedcr500riders.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=8389

i dont need it stuz i got mine running with the 250 ignition running a 01 250 vortex x10 ignitionand it cranks

and asteroid the stator plates between the the 250 and 500 are exactly the same its the fly wheel pickup that is different by 10 degrees put the together and you will see that

OK...
Gregrobo is correct, the difference is in the fly wheel, i just measured it up & you'd be good to pick it up by eye.

So youd need to find TDC via the spark plug hole then adjust your stator plate so that the centere of your pick up point on your fly wheel is cental to the stator pick up point.
Doing this will then give you a "STATIC" TDC from were you my choose to time to you OWN or engine builders requirements.

At the static TDC you can start your motor knowing that it will & should start.

Greg, a few post ago you were saying that you elongated one of your backing plate holes so as to get the timing in it's trues timing point....could you please post some pictures so that we the CR500 public can make this mod our selves...Yes i'm one of them 2.