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Posted: November 12th, 2008, 2:00 pm
by Balaclava
teemtrubble wrote:A GEN3 125 turns better than all of them combined.
sure it does there mike :roll:

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 3:11 pm
by Slow old Fart
Balaclava wrote:
teemtrubble wrote:A GEN3 125 turns better than all of them combined.
sure it does there mike :roll:
The 125 frame is pretty much a 250 CR with a steeper angle on steering head. I do not see how that thing could be worth a chit in high speed stuff at all and it seems like the front end would knife under bad in sand?.

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 3:48 pm
by AlisoBob
Farty needs to post photos NOW..... or not.

Its his choice.....

:roll:

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 3:53 pm
by teemtrubble
Or what because you know he won't :wink:

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 3:55 pm
by teemtrubble
Balaclava wrote:
teemtrubble wrote:A GEN3 125 turns better than all of them combined.
sure it does there mike :roll:
It does... don't forget I build them all.

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 3:58 pm
by AlisoBob
teemtrubble wrote:Or what because you know he won't :wink:
:itsok:

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 3:59 pm
by pstoffers
Slow Old Fart and Freemer need to go play with eachother's Meat!!!!! :nyah:

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 4:07 pm
by Balaclava
teemtrubble wrote:
Balaclava wrote:
teemtrubble wrote:A GEN3 125 turns better than all of them combined.
sure it does there mike :roll:
It does... don't forget I build them all.
haha i'm just breaking balls...

So you would ride the 125 conversion the most out of any other?

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 4:17 pm
by teemtrubble
yep...

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 4:20 pm
by Balaclava
hey mike do you have any idea if putting a 250R engine into a 250F frame would work without too many mods?

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 4:22 pm
by teemtrubble
Funny you said that because were considering a CR330 kit in a CRF250 chassis but, it's stii just as much work.

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 4:38 pm
by Balaclava
how about cradle sizes? will a 250R fit inside the F frame without any cutting or Y clearance?

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 5:03 pm
by teemtrubble
NO way!

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 5:07 pm
by Balaclava
nevermind, i just looked at my bros 250f and a 250R engine would be a hard conversion...but if you take off and recycle all the fancy capacitor and coil mounts that are needed for the R engine and place them in generally the same location, and move the Y section up slightly then it is possible, and probably fairly quickly.

:hijacked:

sorry

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 5:22 pm
by 100hp honda
what if slow old fag turned out to be rhacks in disguise :shock: . they both from florida ?

Posted: November 12th, 2008, 7:18 pm
by eyesky2002
I have a 88 TRX250R that I am doing a ground up re-build on and plan on putting a 330 jug on it after I go over the engine!!! Anyone thought about leaving the 250 motor in there gen 3 and going big bore. I know my 500 has way more then enough power for the chassis and am sure the 330 would be comparable and maybe even allow for more power to the ground!

Posted: November 13th, 2008, 9:03 am
by tracetrimble
The 330 jug eliminates the power valve, and I've also heard they are a bitch to jet.

Am I correct in thinking that the gen3 CR250 tank & airbox/boot will work for a 500 mill as-is?

Posted: November 13th, 2008, 9:33 am
by Slow old Fart
tracetrimble wrote:The 330 jug eliminates the power valve, and I've also heard they are a bitch to jet.

Am I correct in thinking that the gen3 CR250 tank & airbox/boot will work for a 500 mill as-is?
My freind has a wiseco 330 on his 1990 Cr 250 it was real fast but hit hard. Grabs hole shots big time. It was a good kit with a boreable liner I believe.

Posted: November 13th, 2008, 6:08 pm
by iggys-amsoil
tracetrimble wrote:The 330 jug eliminates the power valve, and I've also heard they are a bitch to jet.

Am I correct in thinking that the gen3 CR250 tank & airbox/boot will work for a 500 mill as-is?
Jetting is fairly easy but not much info about it for 330 jug and which carb. So ya it will take sometime. Hell I just picked up another needle from Sudco yesterday but the changes are at off idle. We like our porting work and other mods but it comes with a price.

You'll have to heat gun the tank. And the trick to the airbox/boot is take the airbox loose from the subframe when putting the boot on the carb. There is another boot that lines up better.

Also I'm 6'3" and 220. Seems like I'm the only one here thats had turning issues. The ergos just really are not good if your taller than 5'10" Maybe cause I ride tracks mostly the last couple of years, however sitting up on the tank is the key, a side from 20mm trip clamps and the fater 90 Bridgestone 201 tire. Kendas seem good too.

Good luck but my personal choice is 02-07 250's

Posted: November 14th, 2008, 2:03 am
by juddy
[quote="dannygraves"]I'd still like to see pics of this super clean gen-4. without a heat gunned tank, modded airbox, notched frame, shitty wiring, coil location and really shitty coolant hose routing. and I'd like the see the shifer be able to be mounted in various degrees and a kicker that goes all the way down without smacking your ankle on the foot peg... oh and lets not forget exhaust mounts... AND THE REAR BRAKE LEVER!!!

X2 ! Why wont SOF help by posting pics ?

Posted: November 14th, 2008, 4:54 am
by Slow old Fart
juddy wrote:
dannygraves wrote:I'd still like to see pics of this super clean gen-4. without a heat gunned tank, modded airbox, notched frame, shitty wiring, coil location and really shitty coolant hose routing. and I'd like the see the shifer be able to be mounted in various degrees and a kicker that goes all the way down without smacking your ankle on the foot peg... oh and lets not forget exhaust mounts... AND THE REAR BRAKE LEVER!!!

X2 ! Why wont SOF help by posting pics ?
I have 2 450 CRF's done one is a 03 and the other a 05 and I do not know what he is talking about. Niether bike has a heated tank. I have the motors really low up front.

Posted: November 14th, 2008, 6:24 am
by juddy
Please post some pics of how they are mounted.I have my engine rotated as forward as possible without notching the frame cradle and I still had to heat the tank and compress it.That is also with cutting away a section of the RHS of frame in front of peg (as pictured).I also end up with approx 3/4'' gap from airboot to airbox.Also the other issues Danny has mentioned.Posting some pics is the only way you will earn any credibility about your work from what I can see from other comments..... And it would be nice to SEE solutions to these problems if someone has overcome them.

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Posted: November 14th, 2008, 8:55 am
by dannygraves
juddy, the secret to the gen-4 airbox is a '98 or '99 cr125 airboot :wink: if you can't find that a '97-'99 cr250 one will also work, but doesn't come out as clean as the 125 boot.

Posted: November 14th, 2008, 8:59 am
by dannygraves
my gen-4 has the gen-1 250 boot and it rubs both the frame and shock a little, but works. The one I built for Marshall has the gen-1 125 boot and required a little heat to stretch out the opening to fit over the carb, but it contoured the frame and shock better and ended up mounting higher up on the airbox.
I used a sheet of lexan and decided to run a steelie-gen-3 air filter, so I just cut out the hole and use the plate that came with the air boot. it actually came out pretty nice. I used aluminum pop rivets to attach the lexan plate to the airbox after I rattle canned it flat black.

Posted: November 14th, 2008, 1:38 pm
by juddy
Thanks Danny.At the moment I have an 02 CR 250 boot on there as it has the correct diameter for the carby and has more room than a stock 500 boot for the shock,but my shock is away at the moment so I cant see whether it clears or not.My plan is to get some 3/4" black neoprene and drill and tap from both sides to make an adaptor flange.Check out the pic,did your boot sit somewhere similar ? No matter what.....the flanges are different so some kind of adaptor plate is needed,so how can SOF have a non modified airbox ? :shock:

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