Page 2 of 4
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 11:37 am
by dahondaboy
AlisoBob wrote:dahondaboy wrote:... sounds like sleeving is cheaper.
Isnt this train of thought what got you in this position?
you think that having glen or loomis sleeve and set it up for me is worse than bolting on a mass produced new one?
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 11:41 am
by AlisoBob
Buy the time you ship it both ways.... and pay for parts and labor ( most shops charge extra to port match the sleeve exactly) ... your 80% of the way there for a new one.
Money may be tight, but try to scrape it up...
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 11:42 am
by dahondaboy
also i was under the assumption that a resleeved cyl , is better than a new one. its like using a seasoned block on a 350 or 383. a new engine has to flex expand and contract many places until it is seasoned, where a seasoned block will not move as it has been set. dosent it stand to reason that a 500 jug would behave in the same manner?
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 11:43 am
by dahondaboy
nevermind the previous post thats getting a little critical, i just want a runner.
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 11:47 am
by AlisoBob
A resleeved cylinder is only as good as the machinist who did it.....
My experience is its a crapshoot.
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 12:12 pm
by dahondaboy
ok splain this to me lucy,,,i pulled the head and the cyl and rings look fine however when at top dead center it is a hair over a quater inch from the top of the cyl. amost a pinky finger from the top! wtf did i get the wrong piston? its like i put a spacer plate under the jug. but there isnt
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 12:15 pm
by AlisoBob
How could you not have noticed this when you put it together...
You have a late model jug, on a early model bottom end ( short con rod)....
5mm = 0.196"
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 12:18 pm
by dahondaboy
the last piston fit fine so what year piston do i need?
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 12:21 pm
by AlisoBob
Graves, tell the man what he needs to do..... Stat!
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 12:42 pm
by dannygraves
you've got a '85-'86 crank/rod in a '87+ bottomend. it has nothing to do with the jug or piston, the jugs and pistons are interchangable from '85+ except the early cases won't accept the newer jugs without being machined for the thicker sleave.
is there a spacer between the jug and motor? I've got a spacer on my '86 since I put in a '87+ rod.
the easy fix is get a '87+ crank, or rebuild yours with a '87+ rod.
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 12:47 pm
by dahondaboy
well i just pais freakin 300 to have this crank put in and now its worthless?!!!! cant i get a jug that is made for it?what year jug do i need to look for as another new crank is not an option! i just put this one in! help me please figure this out. what can i do to fix this without changing the rod? again i just rebuilt the bottom.
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 12:49 pm
by dannygraves
I really don't understand how the same setup could have been running before..... the new and old pistons are only different in the intake cutout. infact I'm running a '90+ piston in my '86..... all the jugs are the same, the only difference over the years is the case deck height for difference rod length.

Posted: June 18th, 2008, 12:55 pm
by dannygraves
you would need '85-'86 cases
if your cases are '88 or newer the trans won't swap over either. if your cases are '87 then you are in luck. there is an '85 motor on ebay right now, its the one partially painted red. no one is going for it since its ugly and in peices, but it comes with the trans. put your crank in that, clean it up with some new bearings and you will be good to go!

and hauling ballz!
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 12:55 pm
by Slomo
I'd say once you get that sorted out, then your jetting will be lean.
I ran U-2 fuel with a 178-180 main at the Widow last year and my bike ran awesome.
With C-12, I'd run a 170-172 main at that altitude.
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 12:57 pm
by dannygraves
was that a "new" crank or rebuilt? I might be willing to trade you...

I haven't put my rebuilt crank in yet, and just bought the cometic spacer, etc. but I could just hang onto those.
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 1:02 pm
by dahondaboy
ok i understand now, my deck is too high. so damn, anyone want to buy a good short crank? ill just rebuild the original crank and measure twice next time. and not be in such a hurry
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 1:03 pm
by AlisoBob
dahondaboy wrote:ok i understand now, my deck is too high. so damn, anyone want to buy a good short crank?
Short rod
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 1:04 pm
by dannygraves
no matter what the bottomend has to come apart. believe it or not splitting the cases is no big deal. Rob had a killer writeup. buy the 2 gaskets and a flywheel puller and get a harmonic balancer puller from harbor freight for like $7 and you'll use the 2 pullers for years to come.
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 1:22 pm
by dahondaboy
i know i can do it, thats what kills me is i just got done doing it, practice makes perfect though. thanks for your help guys. but im serious about selling the complete crank to fund my other one being rebuilt. it has low hours and is very tight
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 1:23 pm
by dannygraves
I might have a crank to trade... shoot me a pm if interested...
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 1:29 pm
by MojoScojo
You could mill the base...
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 1:48 pm
by AlisoBob
dahondaboy wrote: thanks for your help guys.
Thanks Graves....
Sorry its all bad news Hondaboy...
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 2:08 pm
by Mad Dog
Wow, this turned ugly quick.
Good luck.
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 2:12 pm
by AlisoBob
Like I said.... goofy jetting usually means bad news...
Posted: June 18th, 2008, 2:13 pm
by dannygraves
AlisoBob wrote:Like I said.... goofy jetting usually means bad news...
