BannedCR500Riders.com

aloha450x wrote: the anti corrosive propertys for aluminum are a bonus.

Agreed, but dont forget that any anti-freeze has the same anti-corrosion properties...

M.F.D.B. wrote:

dannygraves wrote:thats what I used to run, but the closest honda stealership in carter, and I'm not driving that far for coolant!

Cycle gear and Sams among others dood...or do what everyone else does and use my shit...

all of those are far from home, and I'm not a mooch

dannygraves wrote:I'm not a mooch

M.F.D.B. wrote:

dannygraves wrote:I'm not a mooch

let me throw this out there for discussion. im no antifreeze expert but all the ones ive seen have silicates in them (except honda 50/50). would the silicates grind into the seals the same way aluminum particels from aluminum clutch plates might in the tranny oil?

Kind of, silicates are abrasive...

guess im lost on why the silicates are added. honda manual recomends coolant with no silicates- do they clean the radiator as they pass through it or whats their purpose? every car and motorcycle coolant on the market that i have seen contains them, except honda 50/50

They are corrosion inhibitors but some times combine into larger particles and fall out of suspension. Supposedly if you keep your coolant well maintained and fresh this doesnt happen. Better to just play in safe and use silicate free...

me and a buddy were way out in the desert and his cr250 puked out all the coolant and we had no water left so we pissed in it, got us back home but he had to smell it all the way! poor guy

I have had to piss in a few radiators... KX500's

Mad Dog wrote:

lewisclan wrote:EVANS period.
I have alot of bikes xrs crs & fricken bad ass crs Evans is where its at .
keep in mind that if you bike runs hot it will still run hot with evans it just wont boil over . so if you are a rider you will know your hot and will shut it down to cool off with out boiling all your shit out to tell ya its fricken hot ass hole . so I guess Evans is only for rides who would know the diff.
its all about the love

It is all about the love.

Jay, have ever had to shut down because you were running too hot?

No but I have shut mine down because all my friends bikes where boiling over and they had to because all there stuff was in the over flow or on the ground

My A/F had zero problems in the forest, but at Glamis it was puking all over. I think the rads are not good enough or the hose spouts are too small. I went and got some watter wetter for it, and will follow Bobs mix idea. As for the 1.6 cap, where do I get one for the cr250? I looked at a stock cr500 unit on Hondaparts direct, and they want like 24 bucks! For a radiator cap? Crazy! As for knowing when to pull over and let the bike cool, I do that in the dunes always so it isn't a concern for me when using something like Evans or whatever.

Ported&Polished wrote:My A/F had zero problems in the forest, but at Glamis it was puking all over. I think the rads are not good enough or the hose spouts are too small. I went and got some watter wetter for it, and will follow Bobs mix idea. As for the 1.6 cap, where do I get one for the cr250? I looked at a stock cr500 unit on Hondaparts direct, and they want like 24 bucks! For a radiator cap? Crazy! As for knowing when to pull over and let the bike cool, I do that in the dunes always so it isn't a concern for me when using something like Evans or whatever.

I would try fixing the problem first, like making sure the jetting is rich enough for the loads in the dunes. What gearing are you running?? If you are a big dood then you sould think about gearing, especially if you are cruizing around in like 3rd or 4th gear a lot. Gearing to low slows the water pump too much in relation to air speed. But riding too SLOW always causes problems, you might need a cooling fan...

M.F.D.B. wrote:

Ported&Polished wrote:My A/F had zero problems in the forest, but at Glamis it was puking all over. I think the rads are not good enough or the hose spouts are too small. I went and got some watter wetter for it, and will follow Bobs mix idea. As for the 1.6 cap, where do I get one for the cr250? I looked at a stock cr500 unit on Hondaparts direct, and they want like 24 bucks! For a radiator cap? Crazy! As for knowing when to pull over and let the bike cool, I do that in the dunes always so it isn't a concern for me when using something like Evans or whatever.

I would try fixing the problem first, like making sure the jetting is rich enough for the loads in the dunes. What gearing are you running?? If you are a big dood then you sould think about gearing, especially if you are cruizing around in like 3rd or 4th gear a lot. Gearing to low slows the water pump too much in relation to air speed. But riding too SLOW always causes problems, you might need a cooling fan...

i agree fix the problem. last time at glamis with you fellers my bike never went over 215, was around 200-210 mostly. anything over 220 with a stock cap is about when it starts to kick out fluid

I ordered the optional 1.6 KX500 cap last week. It's P/N was 49085A-1059. It cost $21...mere pocket change I thought.

I made the mistake of trying to go through the local dealership for this. Go f***ing figure they couldn't pull their heads out of their asses to order this. They seem to think every model year Kawasaki uses a different cap. I gave them the P/N straight from Kawasaki and they couldn't find it. So I mail ordered it instead instead. Oh and the dealership wanted another $6 for one.


You know I could really care less if every dealer I've done business with goes belly up and has to find work as a used car salesman or at McDonalds. But I'll save the rest of that for another thread.

castrol straight

MICK wrote:I ordered the optional 1.6 KX500 cap last week. It's P/N was 49085A-1059. It cost $21...mere pocket change I thought.

Thats what I ended up with. $32 with tax from the dealer. A dollar more than Hondas because its painted Black. I could of ordered the honda one but the KX was in stock.

Also to P&P make sure the coolant is just above the core inside and no more or get a catch tank.

I'm gonna fab up a catch tank. My steelie used to overflow a bit but this bike puked it out quite a bit. I don't have jetting issues in the dunes btw, been running what works for a long time. The bike was ripping, and didn't feel like power was going down, it just lost coolant alot and I had to keep checking it and filling it up. Maybe the cap is shot?

In response to the silicates in the coolant, they put it in there to basically eat away rust in cast iron blocks (cars) but on bikes with aluminum cylinders it can eat away the cylinder

wastedyouth02 wrote:In response to the silicates in the coolant, they put it in there to basically eat away rust in cast iron blocks (cars) but on bikes with aluminum cylinders it can eat away the cylinder

Can you elaborate??

anyone running a fan? and has anyone with a 450 frame tried a 450x overflow tank? im not sure if the 250x has a overflow tank but I it does it might fit on late model crf250 frame.

wait I think the overflow tank on the 250x is behind the numberplate on the left side.

wastedyouth02 wrote:In response to the silicates in the coolant, they put it in there to basically eat away rust in cast iron blocks

The silicates literally "Sandblast" the coolant passages.....

AlisoBob wrote:

wastedyouth02 wrote:In response to the silicates in the coolant, they put it in there to basically eat away rust in cast iron blocks

The silicates literally "Sandblast" the coolant passages.....

When I got my stuff back from Glen, I asked what kind of coolant he preferred that I use, and he recommended straight antifreeze.