Leave it to Brit....

aloha450x · Post by **aloha450x** » April 1st, 2008, 9:52 am

I have the boyesen rad valve. I was chexking them out and the petals are carbon fiber and the piece under that is plastic. it looks like the the whiteish piece was gluea down by the manufacter. it is no longer glued. should I re-glue it or are they supposed to open a little?

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » April 1st, 2008, 9:54 am

they should sit completely shut.

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » April 1st, 2008, 9:57 am

Britt, like I told you on the phone I really believe that the transfer ports are a much better idea. I dont think spraying the skirt with sub zero nitrous is a good idea!! I hope that bore scoring is from the trashed reeds and not your lazy air filter skills. Better check those bottom end rod/main bearings...

aloha450x · Post by **aloha450x** » April 1st, 2008, 10:03 am

they sit flat but are both of them supposed to open? the petals and the part they sit on?

britincali · Post by **britincali** » April 1st, 2008, 10:04 am

The bottom end feels fine.

About 3 months ago I found a hole in my airfilter (bettery rubbed through) and it sucked some sand but seemed fine, I think it trashed the bore tho

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » April 1st, 2008, 10:09 am

Prolly did and thats where the crack came from...

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » April 1st, 2008, 10:14 am

britincali wrote:The bottom end feels fine.

About 3 months ago I found a hole in my airfilter (bettery rubbed through) and it sucked some sand but seemed fine, I think it trashed the bore tho

AND THE BEARINGS!!! split that bitch!!
sand doesn't just pass through a bottomend, it chills there for a while and grinds shit up!

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » April 1st, 2008, 10:16 am

aloha450x wrote:they sit flat but are both of them supposed to open? the petals and the part they sit on?

those are dual stage reeds, and both the inner and outer reeds should sit shut and be able to open.

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » April 1st, 2008, 6:46 pm

i dont see any reason you would get a performance gain, but spraying it into the transfer would be a better idea i think because it wont directly hit your reeds and side of the piston. there is a guy in phoenix that built a cr500 for drag racing that held a single cylinder speed record for a while, he sprayed into the transfer, you might check into tapping the transfers brit

Post by **AlisoBob** » April 1st, 2008, 6:49 pm

I'd plumb downstream of the reed's, right into the crankcase, for even distribution.

britincali · Post by **britincali** » April 1st, 2008, 6:49 pm

Believe me Ive thought about it but I need to find a shorter NOS nozzle, the one I have will stick out of the side of the jug bigtime.

britincali · Post by **britincali** » April 1st, 2008, 6:50 pm

AlisoBob wrote:I'd plumb downstream of the reed's, right into the crankcase, for even distribution.

Where though? The reed block takes up most of the space in the cast part of the intake.

britincali · Post by **britincali** » April 1st, 2008, 6:56 pm

This might work in the left side transfer port....

britincali · Post by **britincali** » April 1st, 2008, 6:57 pm

This one would be even better...

ou812 · Post by **ou812** » April 1st, 2008, 8:06 pm

It's a good point, to shoot it into the transfers or crank case. The way you are doing it will cause the piston to suddenly get colder after you hit the button. On the intake side which in turn cause slop, rock and as we see crack.

iggys-amsoil · Post by **iggys-amsoil** » April 1st, 2008, 10:17 pm

britincali wrote:I guess the 30 shot killed her

A side from the cracks. When I had to replace the base gasket, my intake side looked the same, in that there is a lot of ware about an inch to either side from the center line. Almost looks like a crack on each side but not. Its obvious that the center of the piston isn't touching anything. Why is this? Glen, anyone.

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » April 1st, 2008, 11:21 pm

I have said it before and ill say it again, (even if Bob thinks im retarded) the cool intake fuel air charge highly cools that part of the piston. This is why I beleive the cracks always form on the intake side right where Britts cracked. This also explains the lack of wear do to "shrinkage". When was the last time you saw the exhaust side cracked??

ou812 · Post by **ou812** » April 1st, 2008, 11:30 pm

? When was the last time you got out of a cold pool without:

"shrinkage"

aloha450x · Post by **aloha450x** » April 1st, 2008, 11:42 pm

would this of happened with a cast piston?

M.F.D.B. · Post by **M.F.D.B.** » April 1st, 2008, 11:50 pm

"SHRINKAGE" is bad for white boys...

Cast piston would have lasted about 1/3 as long as this Wiseco did, at BEST...

Post by **AlisoBob** » April 2nd, 2008, 5:40 am

M.F.D.B. wrote:
Cast piston would have lasted about 1/3 as long as this Wiseco did, at BEST...

Ive ran more N20 through cast piston motors than I care to think about... ZERO failures.

( Horsepower per CC was less though...)

I would run a 15 horse jet on one.

Cast would work with a wet kit, Boondocker, no way.

4Z · Post by 4Z » April 2nd, 2008, 6:13 am

AlisoBob wrote:

Cast would work with a wet kit, Boondocker, no way.[/quote]
Bob, please explain.

dannygraves · Post by **dannygraves** » April 2nd, 2008, 7:20 am

ya, cast would work, but if brits were cast, frags would have blown holes in the cases and ended up sitting in the sand!

I don't like losing piston peices on the ground...that really messes up a day of riding.

glen howell · Post by **glen howell** » April 2nd, 2008, 10:02 am

britincali · Post by **britincali** » April 2nd, 2008, 10:04 am

It did backfire quite massively a couple of times last trip out

BannedCR500Riders.com

Leave it to Brit....

OO