BannedCR500Riders.com

well i guess i can just take it as my lesson on how to take the thing apart.
do you guys understand my signature at the bottom of my posts now???

your at a cross road- what these guys failed to mention was, if your crank bearings are binding up and grinding, sand or dirt has went through the motor. that means it also went through the crank....better inspect everything very closely before making a decision, other wise you might be pulling it apart REAL soon again

I will definitly be replacing the crank bearings thats a given. But only the ignition side one is bad it seems one ball in it is worn. weird and uncommon i know. but it has a blue color like that one ball in the bearing gets really hot! looks like a manufacturing flaw to me. the other crank bearing looks and feels fine.

Replace both bearings....

like they said, side to side is ok ( within the limit) but any up and down at all is no pinche bueno. hold the rod right int he middle and steady it, they firmly try and pull it up and down while holding it int he middle, i thought mien had no up and down untill i was shown how to actually check, if its not righ tint he middle of the crank it wont move much, if it has up and down play this is what happens

holy sheeeiittt. ya ummm
thats why i think ill replace it while its torn apart now.

dahondaboy wrote:holy sheeeiittt. ya ummm
thats why i think ill replace it while its torn apart now.

I just got off the phone with glen and he is gonna do the crank work for me. I'm sendin my jug to him at the same time.
looks like I will have a killer motor in a few weeks I am stoked
and cant wait!!!

I think the complete dissassembely of my cases is one of the scariest things I have ever done. I have rebuilt a chev 350 and a buick 3.8 v-6 and a 18 speed diesel tranny, but those parts ar big and easy to work with. I went to u.t.i. for auto/ diesel mechanics when I was 18 but damn
it turns out it wasnt that bad after all, I guess it was just the fear of wild springs and unknown objects flying across the garage that made me nervous. turns out it was pretty straight forward. I made sure to keep all the pieces marked and organized as i went labeling everything and making maps to where they go. I have the whole motor apart now and removed all the gaskets and seals , cleaned all the cases to be painted and getting ready to remove the crank bearings now. im sure some of you guys have been in your motors so much that you can do it in your sleep. as this is my first time this far into a small engine besides a yam. blaster I was nervous. but now I am glad I did it. Now I have a better knowledge of how it all works and can be more prepared for the next time. I have a crappy camera but I will take some pics of the things I have apart sometime this afternoon. what kind of paint do you guys reccomend for the cases? and i appreciate all you guys help and shared knowledge through this endeavor. this forum rocks!!

dahondaboy wrote:.... this forum rocks!!

Members like you ROCK!

Roll up those sleeves, and jump into things.. Thats what this site is all about... there IS a safety net ..should you fall.



Other sites have members too afraid to do anything.... not here.

The members are what set this site apart.... "Thank's" goes out to you.

heres the pics of my empty cases, the bearing pic is the one that has the flaw if you can see the discoloration by my finger it looks like one of the balls in it is pitted causing it to get really hot turning it blue. it is a koyo bearing which all balls uses.

ok a chicken and egg question , Do I install the crank bearings onto the crankshaft first using the heat/cold method or do they go in the cases first then put in the crankshaft? thanks. I know, I know, I should get a manual. I will before i put it all together. but I like to do things in my head first.

Put 'em into the cases first. This thread is great... http://www.cr500riders.com/cgi/yabb/YaB ... 1138654417

WOW! freakin' amazing thread thanks fastkart super informative and better than the manual!!!! looks like I was spot on luckily
this will be very helpful when reassembly time comes.

If you don't want to do the heat cool method you can use this tool:
http://www.rockymountainatv.com/product ... lyId=17166

It works very well!

hes probly wondering whats the heat/cool method, in which i would highly recomend the tool. i did the heat/cool method 2x , and it does work but things can go wrong pretty quick if your inexperienced, not to mention the procedure does have to be done rather quickly for it to be sucessful. if you get the case and bearing wedged cricked on the crank then you have problems. with the tool you can take your time and not rush things

i have used the heat/ cool method with automotive parts
but that tool seems like a rather inexpensive way
to not f**k things up
for 60 bucks and a 1 hr drive I think ill pick it up.
thanks again!

Whats the deal with your avatar. That thing surely doesnt need a 13.78 foot extension. Is it photochop?? (I hope)

Its my XS650 with a 750 cc big bore and 30 shot nitrous. extreme porting job and shell number 1 camshaft. elect fuel pump and twin 40mm mikuni vm carbs. And when on a near vertical with a skat trak dominator it really helps. It's a 70 inch wheel base. there was actually one 3 inches longer at widowmaker last year and no it isnt photoshopped. this year it has upside down forks.

heres a bigger pic

Utahns are nuts!!!

I think I have found an awesome alternative to baked on case paint!
It's called Appliance epoxy. Its the stuff they use to paint fridges and range ovens like in your house. 3 coats is extremely chip and grease/oil resistant. you know how much grease you spill on your house stove.
I have painted my cases with it and it has a deep glossy black, im not sure if it will hold up to fuel spillage but we will see in the near future. stay tuned and i will keep you posted. if it is in fact gas/alcohol resistant this is a much tougher and cheaper than VHT!

dahondaboy wrote: I have painted my cases with it and it has a deep glossy black, im not sure if it will hold up to fuel spillage

Anything that comes from a rattle can is "solvent based" which makes it suseptible to solvents after it cures. You need a "catalyst cure" type paint or powder coat to be most durable.