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Posted: September 29th, 2010, 5:26 pm
by qkenuf4u
100hp honda wrote:cool. what is he doing ? supposedly he did some 93hp zilla. seen the dyno paper for whatever thats worth. suzuki sucks so i dont really care. just saying
nothing special... redoing my crank and boring the cylinder for my PRO-X piston... great guy...
Posted: September 29th, 2010, 5:57 pm
by 100hp honda
blah alot of down time for just bore job
. what ever floats your boat
Posted: September 29th, 2010, 6:01 pm
by qkenuf4u
100hp honda wrote:blah alot of down time for just bore job
. what ever floats your boat
bikes not ready to ride anyways so no worries
.... plus its a bore job and crank rebuild....
Posted: January 18th, 2012, 7:14 pm
by seanmx57
I've been doing some reading about break ins. Folks are saying not to use Synthetic oil for break in. Too Slippery. I've never heard this for 2 strokes before, only 4 strokes. Anyone in the know about it?
Posted: January 18th, 2012, 7:52 pm
by AlisoBob
Shitty machine work needs to grind together to make it all fit with crap for oil....
Quality machine work lapps together nicely with Ami's mink oil...
Look it up....
Posted: January 19th, 2012, 6:08 am
by Roostius_Maximus
Posted: January 19th, 2012, 2:22 pm
by jbsleddin
AlisoBob wrote:Shitty machine work needs to grind together to make it all fit with crap for oil....
Quality machine work lapps together nicely with Ami's mink oil...
Look it up....
So what you're saying is all the bikes are machined shittily (a word I just made up) right from the factory, cause they all recommend a break-in procedure?
Posted: January 19th, 2012, 4:46 pm
by AlisoBob
No, the OEM machine work is good, so you break them in on mink oil, and not reclaimed ATF with some ajax thrown in....
Posted: January 19th, 2012, 6:17 pm
by dannygraves
most OEMs now factory fill with synthetic in performance applications. A lot of them factory fill with mobil 1 vettes, vpers, mitsu evos, etc. Hell, my kawi was factory filled with castrol r4 5w40 synthetic. I've been using rotella blue bottle 5w40 since day 1. I also put blue bottle rotella in the rzr which was factory filled with the polaris branded 0w40 synthetic.
My break-in method is: step 1, start engine, step 2, ride
Posted: January 19th, 2012, 7:58 pm
by 2strokeforever
No, the OEM machine work is good
not on my bike....
broke in my cyl from roosty by boiling most of the coolant out and overreving it till it was out of gas, was running a little lean too
no problems with it even after sending quite a bit of dirt thru
Posted: January 19th, 2012, 10:20 pm
by AlisoBob
2strokeforever wrote:[not on my bike....
Your motor wasent built by Honda/Japan.... It was built by "Service Honda".....
Posted: January 20th, 2012, 8:08 pm
by 2strokeforever
ya, but service honda didnt bore it... and roosty checked that it wasnt droped, it had the taper bore special from honda
Posted: January 21st, 2012, 6:48 am
by Roostius_Maximus
I have 3 more of those tapered cylinders here right now too, two fresh from the box (3rd new one is ok), the other tapered one has some hours on it but it was also a new replacement recently.
Posted: August 10th, 2014, 8:09 pm
by bwalker
I believe Mr. Hall is spot on. One of the best snowmobile engine guys I know breaks his motors in on the dyno by bringing them up to temp, then making a series of pulls the last of which would sometimes make the expansion chamber head section start to glow.
