Page 2 of 2

Posted: April 14th, 2014, 9:56 pm
by AlisoBob
The goal of any conversion is a clean job, and low vibrations.

Kevin's jib is awesome to get the engine mounted correctly, but the job doesnt stop there.....

Once you get the motor mounted, and all welding is done... do this.

1. Torque all bolts, including the headstay.

2. Remove one of the main 10mm engine mounting bolts. Using a new, long, straight, 7/16" ( 11mm) drill bit, drill all the way through the mount, case, and out the other mount. Do this carefully and accurately. This is called "Match Drilling"

3. Replace the 10mm bolt with the correct length 7/16" bolt, and retorque.

4. Repeat with the other main motor mount bolt.

5. Repeat with the head stay bolts.

6. Congratulations!!!

Your motor is now secured perfectly, and is homogeneous with the frame. This is vital to have a low vibe bike. No one else tells you to do this... just one of the little things we know here at Banned....

:)

Posted: April 15th, 2014, 8:36 am
by cowboyona426
AlisoBob wrote:The goal of any conversion is a clean job, and low vibrations.

Kevin's jib is awesome to get the engine mounted correctly, but the job doesnt stop there.....

Once you get the motor mounted, and all welding is done... do this.

1. Torque all bolts, including the headstay.

2. Remove one of the main 10mm engine mounting bolts. Using a new, long, straight, 7/16" ( 11mm) drill bit, drill all the way through the mount, case, and out the other mount. Do this carefully and accurately. This is called "Match Drilling"

3. Replace the 10mm bolt with the correct length 7/16" bolt, and retorque.

4. Repeat with the other main motor mount bolt.

5. Repeat with the head stay bolts.

6. Congratulations!!!

Your motor is now secured perfectly, and is homogeneous with the frame. This is vital to have a low vibe bike. No one else tells you to do this... just one of the little things we know here at Banned....

:)
Info like this is why I'd hate to see this site go belly up. Out of curiosity, is there any reason not to do this on a steelie?

Posted: April 15th, 2014, 11:15 am
by AlisoBob
The steelie dosent have the same warpage issues as the beer can variety. The boltholes from the factory are located very well.

I supposed you could though.

The idea is to have the engine, frame, and exhaust mounted as a single, solid mass. Tight fitting mounting bolts, and a double headstay help in this tremendously.

The bigger the mass, the harder it is to "excite" it into vibrating.


Easy-Peasy....

Posted: April 15th, 2014, 12:28 pm
by cowboyona426
Good info. I'm going to file this in the memory banks for when I get around to building an AF.

Posted: October 23rd, 2014, 12:53 pm
by R1yamdude
Any more jigs available,

About to start an 09 crf250r - 89-01 cr500

Im In UK, would love one of these to help with the welding. Pleeese

Phill