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Posted: June 7th, 2011, 9:48 pm
by omaotek
What pipe should I look for that fits best for this conversion. excluding the pre mod ones from SH

Posted: June 7th, 2011, 10:17 pm
by omaotek
Can anyone identify this carb? It came with the engine I am going to use. Is it crap or worth using? I noticed the choke is on the opposite side.
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Posted: June 8th, 2011, 1:37 pm
by sugarshane
omaotek wrote:Can anyone identify this carb? It came with the engine I am going to use. Is it crap or worth using? I noticed the choke is on the opposite side.
Keihin PE.

I had one on my LT250R that I bought for my GF for the dunes. I never had any problems with it. Although a lot of the Suzuki guys recommended to swap it for a PWK. I only rode it a handful of times and I'm not a qwad guy so I wasn't going to spend unnecessary money on it. BUT on the LT250/500's most of the guys ditched em.

Posted: June 9th, 2011, 2:15 am
by omaotek
I have a 2000 CR250 which comes with the 38 airstriker, I think I will just use that carb for my 500 and put the Mikuni from the 01 250 motor I removed on my 2000 250.

is there a huge diffrence between using the 38 compared to a 39 or 41??

Posted: June 9th, 2011, 7:53 am
by seanmx57
for woods riding that 38 will work nice

Posted: September 6th, 2011, 8:22 pm
by NightBiker07
omaotek wrote:Thanks Hoofarted. I see you used the IMS tank for your build and you didnt have to modify anything for fitment, thats good to know!
I was thinking the same. I'm ordering that exact tank in a few days. good to know i will still be able to use it when I convert.

Posted: April 27th, 2012, 1:02 am
by omaotek
figured I would make a conclusion to my first build...... Its been used and very abused for quite awhile with zero issues. I havent goten any cracks in the frame and the engine runs strong and reliable thanks to roostys work. I ended up running a 38 airsriker carb from my 2000 cr250. I also installed a home made decompression valve actuator which works very well and very much worth the effort to make. Also installed a ritious stunt metals easy pull clutch perch (highly recremended) which is by far the best clutch lever I have seen, it's kinda pricy but if it breakes you can send it back for a new one. Without A FWW on the 250 ignition the bike was fun when dry but as soon as it got slopy it was a nightmare, ended up with a 14 or 12oz? stealthy FWW= much better tire hookup. lastly I recently installed a under bar scotts steering damper, scotts no longer makes a mount for the 2000-2001 cr250's so I used a GPR tower and a BPR scots mount. Just had to use the scotts tower pin inside the GPR tower or you could just slightly gind the GPR tower pin to fit into the scotts stabilizer. Putting the stabilizer made the bike much more predictable and less tiring in actuality the stabilizer gave more of a benefit than getting the susspension done. (depending on what you ride)

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Posted: April 27th, 2012, 7:25 am
by hoofarted
Nice n clean! Post some pix and more info on your decomp setup. And is that a fucking machete on the front?? :cool:

Posted: April 27th, 2012, 11:56 pm
by omaotek
For the decomp actuator I used a thumb actuated hotstar lever for a CRF that bolts to the brake master. On the valve I made a mount that clamps around the mount for the valve and welded the adjuster part of a clutch perch to the top of the mount I made, Im using a clutch cable without the adjuster portion on it to actuate it.

Yes that would be a machete on the front of my bike :lol: Its a must for the type of riding we do here, there has been a few times that I have had to cut a new trail to get out of a nasty situation. its also nice to have on hand to keep the trails maintained. We cut and maintain all the trails where we ride.

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