BannedCR500Riders.com

[quote=""SOLID Bro!!""]Paulie, In your spare time take Photo 101.

Why in the hell is the paneling in focus and not the work?

or maybe try a box camera.[/quote]

Also your damn sticker is coming off the wall.............get with the program dude

hey Paul, nice work, your design inspired me, I added the plate cause the Y was pretty thin after I hacked it out, and angled the hole for the 3 " pipe to follow the exhaust manifold, as Cmotodad had stated, and since I'm selling this bike to a friend and coworker, I want no part of it breaking on him, recal work, poor feelings afterward, or liability.

He was asking about getting the frame polished, so I think he likes them shiny, he polished the tunnel on his sled, and the CR250 I am taking on trade was as polished as it will get with out using jewlers rouge.

The others I built before were gen 1 only, so this has been a learning curve, and I don't fabricate for a living like some guys here.

How are you getting the brushed look ?

sabreguy wrote:[quote=""SOLID Bro!!""]Paulie, In your spare time take Photo 101.

Why in the hell is the paneling in focus and not the work?

or maybe try a box camera.

Also your damn sticker is coming off the wall.............get with the program dude [/quote]


Hey man I'm just a jack of all master of none. POS $1000.00 camera is to smart for me.....

scotchbrite go in one direction only or you will get a cross hatched look and it looks shit

dubious01 wrote:hey Paul, nice work, your design inspired me, I added the plate cause the Y was pretty thin after I hacked it out, and angled the hole for the 3 " pipe to follow the exhaust manifold, as Cmotodad had stated, and since I'm selling this bike to a friend and coworker, I want no part of it breaking on him, recal work, poor feelings afterward, or liability.

He was asking about getting the frame polished, so I think he likes them shiny, he polished the tunnel on his sled, and the CR250 I am taking on trade was as polished as it will get with out using jewlers rouge.

The others I built before were gen 1 only, so this has been a learning curve, and I don't fabricate for a living like some guys here.

How are you getting the brushed look ?

Tip one on it not breaking. I can't type this loud enough. Make sure all the engine bolts stay tight. If any of them start to move or come loose it WILL come apart. The engine is what holds the whole thing together.

On that note SoliD

Any one try the loctite tape yet?

Thanks for the great advice Eric, it will be adheared to.
Thanks for the info Greg.

Much appreciated,


Hope everyone is happy and healthy, enjoying family and friends today.

dubious01 wrote:Thanks for the great advice Eric, it will be adheared to.
Thanks for the info Greg.

Much appreciated,

I "match drill" the holes oversize to take all the slop out.

Bob

Does that mean you've gone to bigger bolts in all mount positions? What are you running for bolt size then? 12mm?

Yea, bigger bolts all around.....

SAE 7/16"

No Slop = No Vibes

AlisoBob wrote:Yea, bigger bolts all around.....

SAE 7/16"

No Slop = No Vibes

awesome, will do too! Thanks!

Just bought a case of Maxima 927 the other day.
I was so amazed at your clean exhaust port, and clean engine that I have given up on bel ray and amsoil premix.

dubious01 wrote:I was so amazed at your clean exhaust port, and clean engine that I have given up on bel ray and amsoil premix.

927 really is the shit, I had not started my AF motor for over 2 weeks and when I pulled the top end EVERYTHING was dripping in 927. Squeeky clean head with a little carbon on the piston.

This is my 2002 framed 2003 SH. This is after 7 years of them building them. You would sure think after doing them that long they would be nicer.

Paul it is beyond sad how poor and cobbled that looks in comparison to many of the homemade conversions here. I for one love it when people can't tell what's been changed. That SH frame slaps you in the face to tell you what they did.

Bloody Hell, that's disheartening.

I honestly don't think I could get drunk enough to produce such unprofessional welds - and I'm far from being as proficient now as I was in my 20s & 30s.

Even the clearancing on the RH side is bodgey (though it may be down to marks from installation of the engine then being filed out / sanded out by an owner - it's not hard to mark / gouge alloy ).

This, and many other posts of SH stuff, plus the recent pics of an SH engine - the head - really make me understand how Bobs been like a dog with a bone in his questioning of SHs quality.

To those that have SHs, I'm not knocking your choice, just very disillusioned by the level of execution and finish from a company that we, I assume, all expect better from. It really looks like a first, rushed, prototype effort. Under those descriptions, it would be understandable, but not when they've been produced for years and you are charging top dollar for the product.

Having survived since it's 2003 build, it's been strong enough, but it's certainly not an inspiring build aesthetic.

The right side where the water pump is was ground with a grinding stone till the motor just fit. They still touch a little. This frame has cracked in the spars and the upper shock mount.

Ah, that's the frame that I think I explained the forces involved in the AFs that lead to such cracking, I think. A (young) fellow here grasped my explanation quickly and did some arrowing to the pics to illustrate things.

Hill Climbers, with the extended SAs really hammer these frames. You could say that the cradle construction was sound if it hasn't cracked whilst the spars have, but the reality is that the cradle takes bugger all load in a spar frame compared to a back bone frame. Do the basics well in the construction, Keep the motor mounts tight And unloaded , and unless you've used crap material, bad welder, a bad design, Cradles and mounts should survive for as long as the rest of the frame.

Bobs advice on bolt / hole matching is worth its weight in gold, and shimming between the mounts and engine is another thing (for ANY type of frame) that is worth the time to do. Loose / stressed mounts are the real frame killers, 99% of the time.

Something I've not mentioned with regards to AFs , is that I use spacers between the engine and the frame mounts. It gives large clamping areas, to prevent the digging in of the engines mounting points into the frame mounts (this can be seen in the pics). At first, years ago I was paranoid about introducing double shear at each engine / frame interface, and made the spacers 'top hat' shaped ,keying them into the frame mounts. It's the sort of thing I still do with some full frames I make, but not on the very rare AF builds I do nowadays. The spacers make it also just that bit easier putting the engine in, but I guess cancel that out by meaning you have to futz about to put them in. Swings and Roundabouts I guess. I also use substantial washers under the nuts and bolt heads, with radiused facing edges to avoid stress raisers. I'm that paranoid that I also use both a little loctite And Nyloc nuts on mount bolts. Nothing comes loose. But spacers are far from being necessary.

As ever, my last comment when it comes to Hill Climbers, is, never make eye contact, and back away carefully. They are a different breed of individual.

All very good points, the input is positive and knowledgable, this thread has turned into what I would hope they all would be. Educational, informative, and positive. The input is much appreciated! I hope others can learn from it as well.

My SH was cracked when I bought it used in 04. A friend of mine dought it new in 03. The motor was loose in the frame the day he got it the bolts were loctited but not tight. SH shipped it that way. So that is what cracked this frame. I don't know who is at fault SH or my friend for not checking all the bolts on a brand new bike he just payed $10,000 for. I don't think you need to mach drill them they just need to be tight. Loctite is a must on the AF's or you will look like Brit picking up parts on the trail. The bolt tolerances on all stock bikes are huge thats why you can swap so mini parts. I have done 9 AF's now and not one has been the same. Not a one of them has used the same head stay even with the same motor being used. Thats why I have my head stays made without the head bolt hole drilled.

Ive never locktited any chassis stuff other than the rear sprocket nuts. Never had any come loose. I've had motors that vibe bad enough to break cases, heads stays, crack rods and frames with the motor mounts being tight.

I invested in a snap on clicker torque wrench and have not had a need for locktite.

You can also stuff a bunch of silicone in with the bolt this will also help to keep the vibes down.

I just tried the loctite blue tape. Time will tell but like it for the seat and body bolts that I take off alot and do not like to crank on. We have had sproket bolts come loose on several occasions, loctite green or red always. I believe this is related to gas and brake track conditions.

dubious01 wrote:....this thread has turned into what I would hope they all would be. Educational, informative, and positive...

..... and hot chicks!

yes but of course, hot chicks are always a good thing...


I am not discriminating, as long as the rug matches the drapes... I like them all, and I like it real!

Screw the rug, I prefer bare, polished floors