Page 10 of 11
Posted: March 18th, 2010, 8:34 pm
by RideRed
gregrobo wrote:from the pic it just looks like it has some black burn on it making the weld look bad im sure the welder nows what he is doing from the previous pics of his workshop nice bike ridered
Nothing a stainless steel brush cant fix.
I was told to use the brush to clean it up if I wanted to.
Posted: March 18th, 2010, 9:30 pm
by RideRed
Got my offroad registration today:
The Officer made a nice little change for me, can you spot it?

Posted: March 18th, 2010, 9:32 pm
by JBaze
Be more impressed if it said, For On Road Use

Posted: March 18th, 2010, 9:35 pm
by RideRed
I could get this street legalized no problem if I wanted to. It helps to know people in the biz

Posted: March 18th, 2010, 9:35 pm
by JBaze
Yes it do
Posted: March 19th, 2010, 12:28 am
by gregrobo
dannygraves wrote:that upper Y weld doesn't appear to have very good penetration... next time tell your welder, more power! that is a location that is known to come apart.
looks to me to have been a bad photo the welds on ridereds y look near perfect lets stick to what we know
Posted: March 19th, 2010, 2:29 am
by CR500R7
The bike looks really good RideRed.
How did the gas tank work out?
Posted: March 19th, 2010, 5:49 am
by juddy
Looks good mate.Im a boilermaker,and I think the welds on the Y look pretty fucking sweet.If you wanna get real fussy then maybe on the front of the Y he could have gone a bit slower,less filler wire or had more amperage,but to me it looks like the welder knows his shit.That black shit is normal,slightly dirty ally but even when you clean it well with a stainless wire brush that shit still happens.Happy roosting

Posted: March 19th, 2010, 11:40 am
by RideRed
Posted: March 19th, 2010, 2:51 pm
by juddy
Looks great,Id be happy with that ! Hope you dont mind me asking......just wondering what the wall thickness on the square tube is ? From the radius on the outside of the tube,and the way it has sucked in on the inside of your bend it looks like its thinner wall than 3mm (1/8). Honda uses 3mm so I wouldnt like to go any less than that.Maybe just the pic but thought it was worth mentioning as the last thing you want is for it to fatigue and crack.
Posted: March 19th, 2010, 4:04 pm
by Mik329
oh shit, dont get him started on the lawn chair
Posted: March 19th, 2010, 4:31 pm
by gregrobo
juddy wrote:Looks great,Id be happy with that ! Hope you dont mind me asking......just wondering what the wall thickness on the square tube is ? From the radius on the outside of the tube,and the way it has sucked in on the inside of your bend it looks like its thinner wall than 3mm (1/8). Honda uses 3mm so I wouldnt like to go any less than that.Maybe just the pic but thought it was worth mentioning as the last thing you want is for it to fatigue and crack.
those bends are typical of a shs die. the die (mandrel) has has a raised section on the inside that forms the depression you see on our machine i used the square rollers with a pipe die so the depression didnt happen
and with a shs die it doesnt matter what wall thickness it is it will still crush the inside of the bend
Posted: March 19th, 2010, 10:03 pm
by CR500R7
Posted: March 20th, 2010, 12:44 am
by RideRed
Thanks to all for the positive comments and concerns. The tubing thickness is enough to provide years worth of fun filled service.
As I said before Bob deleted my orignal 14 page thread, I will show everyone pics if (in the extremely unlikely event) it ever fails.
I will do so willingly.
This build has been a learning process from day 1 and I couldn't do it without the good info and direction I've recieved from helpful members. Thanks!

Posted: March 20th, 2010, 3:39 am
by thestuz
im no alloy weld expert but they look better close up than they did afar.they do look small compared to some ive seen.
good to see ya had the balls to give it a go and do a home built af red

it come up a winner
Posted: March 20th, 2010, 6:13 am
by 90cr500guy
Posted: March 20th, 2010, 8:57 am
by AlisoBob
RideRed wrote:
This build has been a learning process from day 1 ....
Thats what its really supposed to be about....
Posted: March 24th, 2010, 4:04 pm
by King of the 500
Red how much longer berfor you are done with your bike?
Posted: March 24th, 2010, 8:56 pm
by RideRed
King of the 500 wrote:Red how much longer berfor you are done with your bike?
It should be about a week. If all works out well.

Posted: April 1st, 2010, 5:40 am
by gregrobo
thestuz wrote:hey red, i never got around to reading your thread but i was wondering, is that the genuine honda y section that youve reused?
also, how safe do you feel with that weld at the top of the y section?
looks a little sus!
the stuz wrote
im no alloy weld expert but they look better close up than they did afar.they do look small compared to some ive seen.
good to see ya had the balls to give it a go and do a home built af red it come up a winner
the stuz you make me laugh the weld size is relevant to the material thickness
gotta love experts
Posted: April 1st, 2010, 3:45 pm
by thestuz
sorry hero, my point was, if you look at the factory welds(at the start of the page) then you take a look at the welds that have been done by reds welder, there is a distinct size difference it the welds.
the oem welds are much fuller and larger and sit prouder and cover a greater surface area, where as reds welds are smaller is size and fill and im not sure but looks to be not as strong as oem(no offence red).
if size is relevant to material thickness(as you stated) then why are oem welds"larger" using the "same" materials?
if i was doing 40ft tables on that i would be a little bit worried.
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/452/crf250r005.jpg
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/552/crf250r006q.jpg
Posted: April 1st, 2010, 4:03 pm
by thestuz
when you consider oem frames are heat treated after all welding for strength, yet the ones we build are not, i would take the welding size very seriously.
if i were to do a af build, i would put two cuts down the top of the y section that the front frame sits into.10-15mm cuts with a gringer, say 15mm down on opposing sides.
with these cuts, you would be able to fill with weld, therefore increasing the purchase area of the weld(vertically) while maintaining the horizontal integrity of the frame tube.
just what i would do.you see honda uses a similar technique on the heavier 450 frames, and they use the heart shape on the 250.
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/552/crf250r006q.jpg
250 heart shape
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu22 ... 326626.jpg
450 design
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu22 ... cb877a.jpg
fuller welds too
now you can see what im saying clearly about how i would do my cuts right?similar to the 450. like i said, im no expert, but considering these frames arent heat treated, id want my welds at least as thick as oem or do a cut out like the 450s for added strength.
Posted: April 1st, 2010, 5:56 pm
by pstoffers
Some of you guys think way too much!!!!!!
Posted: April 1st, 2010, 6:57 pm
by 100hp honda
ridreds frame should be just fine. the older s/h bikes would have me alittle worried

Posted: April 2nd, 2010, 1:46 am
by thestuz
100hp honda wrote:ridreds frame should be just fine. the older s/h bikes would have me alittle worried

that looks like they ran out of rail and filled it with weld lol.
i dunno,the y section seems to be the weakest link on these frames.
i do 45 ft jumps sometimes and dont always land them right. i know that alloy frames are prone to crack and id just be shitting myself if i knew in my mind if the welds didnt look right.
its prob more of a psychological thing. the welds are prob fine. i guess youll find out
