BannedCR500Riders.com

craigf40 wrote:

Roostius_Maximus wrote:the 2004+ has the TPS, are you running it also?

yes i am now and have jetted it accordingly ...but i first started out with the original 01 cr500 carb which it originally had on and was running and jetted perfectly until i put the 250ign on thats why i at first didnt take brits advice on being a jetting issue until i was ready to give up on the ignition so i tried the jetting and immediately realized it was a jetting problem sorted it and then put the cr250 tps carb on with tps connected and also had to go leaner then what it was running the 250 motor so both carbs had to be leaned out the tps carb i leaned out both main and idle jets but my original carb only needed main jet ...i have no knowledge about the 250 motor it all came from as i bought it a non runner came with my gen3 roller which i built my bike from ...i did put all the end numbers on jets i used on a post here somewhere but you would obviously have to do your own jetting according to your bike and altitude

Hey mate what needle on the TMX38? Thinking of giving mine ago with TPS with 125 2007 ignition. Correct me if I am wrong but is Johansberg high allitude?

2 heat ranges cooler plug? I agree with resistered plugs to protect ignition systems but from what I read is maybe your jetting was lean before hand?

played with jetting lots didnt help, the 7 is a hotter plug i figured it would be good for slow trail days.... turns out it didnt work for anything but wfo

will be trying a br7es to be sure it wasnt the heat range
if anything it shoulda blubbered on the low end with the 9es

k so after running my 99 250 (KZ3S) setup for quite a while i figured i should try the 500 setup.....
so i bolt it on and
the good

hits hard and early right from the bottom
even with the heavier flywheel it breaks loose easyer than the 250 setup, the only way for that to happen is more jam
runs cleaner/ more consistant/ fourstroke like, responds better to jetting changes
im 99.9% sure rad temps were down significantly
airscrew had an effect on surging on decel, 250 would still do it pig rich
no two ways about it the 500 setup has more power, most right off the bottom
didnt vibrate quite as bad, definate diffrence, but not huge, dont know if its the flywheel or cdi..... yet
smaller cdi/ fits better

bad

felt off balance often cause of the heavy flywheel
dosent idle down quite as low, either mapping or weak stator design
CHOOF, havent heard that in a while......
less traction/control from the heavy flywheel if its slippery once it breaks loose your really forked
flame out with less warning
definatly slower on the trails, even with quite a bit more torque to launch out of corners

put the 250 setup back on and
less power, less hit and the smaller hit comes later
dosent run quite as clean
surging on decel, not jetting

i can throw it between trees again
starts slightly easier
my battery is being charged
slightly more overrev

right now im thinking 500cdi and 250 flywheel

but i figure might as well try 250 full advanced

so it hits harder but not as hard or as early as the 500
runs more like the 500 off the bottom, power and crispness or "fourstroke like consistant"
revs pretty good
still less torque or pull than the 500 setup
???where is my timing at.... i hope i dont melt a piston when winding it out???

from the seat dyno i can say for sure if you line 3 bikes up, with each ignition
rolling in 5th idling and drop the hammer the 500 ignition bike will walk away....

jetting wasnt a factor, guaranteed

so as you can probably guess im in the process of wiring the 250 stator to run the 500 CDI, the 250 pickup has 3 wires coming out of it and the 500 2, but it looks like the entire pickup will swap over and bolt on
then all i gotta do is change 2 connectors on the 250 stator and it will plug right in

i hope the stator resistance isnt too important, 21 ohm 500, and 17.8 250, should be fine

im next week i should be running the 250 stator and 500 cdi, hopefully it works as expected, then i can be happy with the engine for a while and focus on suspension or something

got the 250 stator working with the 500 CDI, sounds mean

for the extra wire (plain green) from the 250 pickup i didnt connect it anywhere, started first kick, wont be able to ride till monday, but it should rock
all the other wires colors matched right up, cut the connectors off the 250 stator and put 4 new ones on and your in buisness

because of the diffrence in pickup location you need to retard the stator all the way
that leaves it 1-2 degrees advanced from stock

if your thinking of doing this probably best to wait till monday to see if i fry my CDI

2strokeforever wrote:got the 250 stator working with the 500 CDI, sounds mean

for the extra wire (plain green) from the 250 pickup i didnt connect it anywhere, started first kick, wont be able to ride till monday, but it should rock
all the other wires colors matched right up, cut the connectors off the 250 stator and put 4 new ones on and your in buisness

because of the diffrence in pickup location you need to retard the stator all the way
that leaves it 1-2 degrees advanced from stock

if your thinking of doing this probably best to wait till monday to see if i fry my CDI

What's the word? Has monday came around yet? lol

2strokeforever wrote:got the 250 stator working with the 500 CDI, sounds mean

for the extra wire (plain green) from the 250 pickup i didnt connect it anywhere, started first kick, wont be able to ride till monday, but it should rock
all the other wires colors matched right up, cut the connectors off the 250 stator and put 4 new ones on and your in buisness

because of the diffrence in pickup location you need to retard the stator all the way
that leaves it 1-2 degrees advanced from stock

if your thinking of doing this probably best to wait till monday to see if i fry my CDI

seems like a lot of work when you can run the vortex x10 with the 500 maps programed into it

500 cdi and 250 flywheel is mean, but stalls too easy (poor mapping) dosent start as easy as it should (poor mapping)....
hits hard and lights it up real easy, but the stalling issue makes it worse than the 250 setup for my riding style


i dont like ANY of the vortex maps, but as soon as i find a programable cdi for a reasonable price ill be all over it, like a fat kid on a chocolate cake
already got a starting point map ready

2strokeforever wrote: CHOOF, havent heard that in a while......

I LOLed

I know exactly what that sounds like.

2strokeforever wrote:500 cdi and 250 flywheel is mean, but stalls too easy (poor mapping) dosent start as easy as it should (poor mapping)....
hits hard and lights it up real easy, but the stalling issue makes it worse than the 250 setup for my riding style


i dont like ANY of the vortex maps, but as soon as i find a programable cdi for a reasonable price ill be all over it, like a fat kid on a chocolate cake
already got a starting point map ready

you arnt hearing me mate i have the stock cr500 maps programed into a vortex box i have 10 different year maps to choose from not vortex maps cr500 ones is that clearer and it wasnt expensive either

im still confused....
any year cr 500 maping sucks, 250 good in a few spots but way off everywhere else, and the vortex maps ive looked at arent what im after....
to get a good map im gonna have to do it myself....
if you know where i can get a vortex (with the software) for a reasonable price let me know

did some more back to back testing, and for the 1st and second gear trails the 250 CDI beats the crap out of the 500, the 500 setup stalls when it shouldnt, if the 250 stalls its because the rider forced it to
this isnt a minor difrence, it WILL mean faster lap times, getting further up a nasty rooty hill, being less tired at the end of the day......
yesterday with the 500 cdi i hit this hill 5 times and didnt make it once, put the 250 cdi on and make it twice in a row





with the 99 250 stuff you can run a gear higher and still stall less than the 500 CDI

im running the full 99 250 setup advanced as far as i can without filing anything, with it advanced it dosent surge as bad either

ive been off the bike for a month so im a little rusty, hyd clutch is broken, so im riding pretty bad, and swap the 250 cdi and right away i am riding way better, for trails im gonna say this is more important than barkbusters or a skidplate

if your riding dunes or supermoto id keep the 500 cdi on cause the <1500 rpm range isnt too important, and you know the timing is at safe levels up top

2stroke.....( ive been away awhile )
Mate....
it isnt to hard to accurately time your bike with the later Digital CDI, flywheel & stator....
if you can find top dead center, TDC, then you know the difference between a cock & a pussy & should find the sweet spot in no time.

Either way your input is appreciated by all interested in this type of upgrade.
We've got 3 AF500's in the Territory all running 97 CR250 complete electronic units with exceptional gains & easy starts.
i intened to use the factory 250 carb on mine as its the same size as the carbs used on the 80's to early 90's 500's

Another thing ive notice about you folks State side is you love to go big on the carby upgrades......why the hell would you bolt a monster carb on a bike to go trail riding, flat out on a track, long distance desert race, super kart, hill climb i can get but social & trail riding, theres no need for it...just my 10cents worth.

gregrobo wrote:bolted the 250 ignition on and didnt need to change anything but my shorts

Well we wear jocks in Australia mate...remember that for your next scare

it isnt to hard to accurately time your bike with the later Digital CDI, flywheel & stator....

no it isnt, but it is very hard to decide which part of the map you want to line up, the low-mid or the mid-top, you only get one unless you have a programable ignition

why the hell would you bolt a monster carb on a bike to go trail riding

theres no way im bolting a smaller carb on my 500 than a KTM 150 comes with stock

2strokeforever wrote: theres no way im bolting a smaller carb on my 500 than a KTM 150 comes with stock

it's still the same size as the 500 came from the factory with

doesnt the KTM 300 use a 36mm and the 150 a 38mm??

i couldnt tell you how many times ive seen guys put oversized carbys on race engines & hear them sprook how much harded it goes .... its all bull shit, this is defenetly a situation were bigger AINT better.

Roosty would of seen this a hundred times a year with in his buisness ... his opinion would far out weigh mine, but if you can thunder along on your 500 hundy & it starts breaking down from fuel starvation then by all means go bigger .... but this will never happen ....(it would blow up because it would of leaned out 1st)

Your engine builder will no were to ball park you carb size but other then that just bolting a big carb on because its going to make go better is a bit of a ruse.

asteroid500 wrote:

gregrobo wrote:bolted the 250 ignition on and didnt need to change anything but my shorts

Well we wear jocks in Australia mate...remember that for your next scare

i was wearing shorts the first ride asteroid and i shit them so bad it went thru the jocks lol

Greg,
its offical .... "thats just horribly wrong"

Why do you supose the 2000 250 and 125 CDIs timing curves each flatten out at about 12 degree in the higher rpm, while the others continue to decrease advance?

I would think the high rever like the 125 would just keep loosing advance till the bitter end.

Hi all, I fitted a 98' CR250 complete ignition a little while back and the first thing I noticed is it starts a LOT easier which indicates to me that some part of my original ignition was on its way out maybe the coil? As it used to be a be-arch to start hot or cold before, power wise i didn't really ride it enough before i changed it over to get a feel for it so cant comment there but one thing i did find is that i had to run it fully retarded otherwise it would ping under load in deep sand from about half throttle up other than that its all good, i put the jetting back to standard as the person before me had a 192 main jet fitted and it was way too rich the spare parts the bike came with has about 10 used spark plugs all fouled up.

Well I have a 2000 cr250 cdi, a 2001 cr125 stator and a 2000 cr250 flywheel , after reading all these threads makes me wanna throw it all in the trash no straight forward answers on where to set the stator so it will properly run , a lot of 3-4 degrees 10-13 degrees , WTF , I don't want my motor to burn down or to run worse than it would with my stock 500 ignition. With the stator on the engine turn to the left or right advances or retards ? So where does the stator need to set ? Do I need to elongate the holes in the stator? With the stock holes I am able to advance or retard 4.5 degrees . WHAT DO I DO ???????? &#128534;&#128534;

who knows where the pickup is on the 125 stator, so you might be SOL

a safe bet would be to put the 500 stuff on without tightening the flywheel
line up the trailing edge of the pulsar to the trailing edge of the flywheel tab
without moving the crank take everything off and install the 250 stuff, not tightening the flywheel or stator
now try and make the pulsar line up the same way as the 500 stuff by spinning the stator (without moving the crank)
if you cant make it line up then you can slot the holes, or relocate the pulsar to make it line up
put 500 stuff back on and make sure it lines up like the 250 stuff did

or just get a 250 stator and start in the middle

The cr125 stator is the same as 250 you can even run the 250 flywheel on it you just don't have to machine the back , so walk me through just as if it was a 250 stator lol

slam it on there and play with the adjustments till you think it works best

on my 99 i like full advanced without slotting anything