HrcRacing's Gen 4 ('05 CRF250R) Build
HrcRacing's Gen 4 ('05 CRF250R) Build
First of all, thank you to Bob and others for posting their builds. Thank you to Adam (Roostius Maximus) for hooking me up with some 1" stock and for all of his advice. Danny has been very helpful too - thanks bro!
I'm only really starting this build but wanted to give credit where credit is due.
I'm starting with just a eBay frame that I got for $215.00 shipped. Came with a BOS but I was able to get it titled for an additional $65.00. Have a member here possibly hooking me up with a roller so I'm crossing my fingers that that works out.
Here the Y is removed. As you can see in the pics, I followed the angle of the bottom of the Y.
Mounts removed. I won't bother cleaning these anymore than this.
Drilled out the plug welds with a 1/2" bit and cleaned the Y up.
Removed the engine guard mount from the left side and cleaned up the frame rail. I'll reuse the mount later for the pipe mount.
I placed the Y underneath and estimated how much I would need to cut the downtube to be around where others have placed their Y and scribed the downtube. I left my Y full thickness and only relieved the downtube.
The Y basically where I want it with some relief around it for welding. The sides are thin so, thankfully, required very little work. The back is a bit thicker but roughly half as thick as the front. With that in mind, more work was done on the front.
In the pic above, the Y looks a bit low since I followed the original shape of the Y when I cleaned it out. If you look at the pics below, you get a better idea of how high it is. I'm going to notch the frame by the right footpeg so I "think" that this should be good.
Well, that's it for now. Like Bob, I'll use some 1" stock from Home Depot for mocking up the extensions so I plan to get that tomorrow. My 3/4" stock is a bit proud of that so I'll need to trim that down some before it's ready.
I'm only really starting this build but wanted to give credit where credit is due.
I'm starting with just a eBay frame that I got for $215.00 shipped. Came with a BOS but I was able to get it titled for an additional $65.00. Have a member here possibly hooking me up with a roller so I'm crossing my fingers that that works out.
Here the Y is removed. As you can see in the pics, I followed the angle of the bottom of the Y.
Mounts removed. I won't bother cleaning these anymore than this.
Drilled out the plug welds with a 1/2" bit and cleaned the Y up.
Removed the engine guard mount from the left side and cleaned up the frame rail. I'll reuse the mount later for the pipe mount.
I placed the Y underneath and estimated how much I would need to cut the downtube to be around where others have placed their Y and scribed the downtube. I left my Y full thickness and only relieved the downtube.
The Y basically where I want it with some relief around it for welding. The sides are thin so, thankfully, required very little work. The back is a bit thicker but roughly half as thick as the front. With that in mind, more work was done on the front.
In the pic above, the Y looks a bit low since I followed the original shape of the Y when I cleaned it out. If you look at the pics below, you get a better idea of how high it is. I'm going to notch the frame by the right footpeg so I "think" that this should be good.
Well, that's it for now. Like Bob, I'll use some 1" stock from Home Depot for mocking up the extensions so I plan to get that tomorrow. My 3/4" stock is a bit proud of that so I'll need to trim that down some before it's ready.
AlisoBob wrote:
Is this Brits hand after JERKING OFF next to a barbed wire fence.
I might have to sell my daughter to fund one of these CRF250 conversions they seem to turn out looking really cool.
If I can get enough for her I will have to do a CR125 Gen3 as well.
BTW HrcRacing the progress is looking great so far.
Jack Schitt
DIE FIRST, worry about it later!
DON'T talk about it, Just DO IT!
When in doubt, GO FLAT OUT!
2001 CR500R1 - SOLD
2007 CR250R7 - SOLD
Wife and Daughter - Left Aug 17 - 2010
Jack Schitt - ??????????????
DIE FIRST, worry about it later!
DON'T talk about it, Just DO IT!
When in doubt, GO FLAT OUT!
2001 CR500R1 - SOLD
2007 CR250R7 - SOLD
Wife and Daughter - Left Aug 17 - 2010
Jack Schitt - ??????????????
Sean (SeanMX57) was kind enough to loan me a empty right case (thanks bro!) so I was able to get my case clearance by the right footpeg today. Didn't have to lug an engine in and out.
I suppose one of the benefits of replacing the whole cradle is that you can rotate the engine more if you like. This is as much as I can get with my frame. Actually, it will rotate back a little bit when I buy/make the front mounts for it, but not much.
I suppose one of the benefits of replacing the whole cradle is that you can rotate the engine more if you like. This is as much as I can get with my frame. Actually, it will rotate back a little bit when I buy/make the front mounts for it, but not much.
Looking good, but just as Bob has meantioned before- I would not be that worried about maximizing that forward rotation because you will make lots more work for yourself with the airboot. These bikes handle fricken great compared to what we all are used to in a stock 500 chassis and I don't think all of us 40 yr olds are going to notice that much.
Definitely good to hear about the airbox and, you're right, as slow as I've gotten in my "old age", I doubt that I'd notice it at all.Mik329 wrote:Looking good, but just as Bob has meantioned before- I would not be that worried about maximizing that forward rotation because you will make lots more work for yourself with the airboot. These bikes handle fricken great compared to what we all are used to in a stock 500 chassis and I don't think all of us 40 yr olds are going to notice that much.
Thanks Mik.
You also have to consider the exhaust as well. I clocked the motor, so the OEM pipe fit the chassis, not the other way around. That pipe is 100% stock. I wanted the rear hanger to nestle right where the subframe bolts to the frame.
I also wanted the silencer body parallel to the lower subframe tube, not at some weird converging angle.
Lastly, I checked to make sure the C/S sprocket was high enough, so not to wear out the chain slider quickly.
I think my motor position works out well.
I also wanted the silencer body parallel to the lower subframe tube, not at some weird converging angle.
Lastly, I checked to make sure the C/S sprocket was high enough, so not to wear out the chain slider quickly.
I think my motor position works out well.