revlock clutch

ckaster500 · Post by **ckaster500** » May 1st, 2009, 9:35 pm

Just purchased a revlock clutch for my bike. Its about one week away in the mail. It may not matter now but can I get some feed back on this clutch from some of you guys. I am hoping that it works well. I bought it mainly because my little one started ridding this year with me and all the starting and stopping that I have had to do now cant be good on the origional set up. The way it seems is I also cant go slow enough sometimes in first gear for the 8 year old

. Any thoughts or technical knowledge on this clutch?

ckaster500 · Post by **ckaster500** » May 3rd, 2009, 7:14 am

I was told that I should take a few thou out of the inside of the clutch housing cover so i can get the clutch basket in and out with out taking the side off. It seems that I have to do that to get the stock basket in and out as well. Has any one ever done this? If i remember right there is not a lot of material there anyway.

torque monster · Post by **torque monster** » May 3rd, 2009, 9:23 am

Watch the heat that the clutch generates, shouldn't be an issue but you bike may run hotter with that clutch.

bearorso · Post by **bearorso** » May 4th, 2009, 10:55 pm

You only have to clearance a couple of spots - its one of these things that makes you think why the hell didn't Honda do it in the factory ?

Take pressure plate & plates out, remove hube nut & slide out basket - you'll soon seen the interference points. I removed the inner case to do the clearancing with a dremel - a dodgy mate the night before a race packed the opening with clean rags - then blew it out. It worked , but it sure was funny when the dremel (air one running big pressures) caught the rag & twisted the hell out of his wrist.

The diametre of the std basket ( below the tangs ) is just under 153mm - if the Revlock basket /assembly is the same or not much bigger you'll have no problem. I use a Rekluse with a Hinson basket - can't remember if the Hinson had a bigger Dia.

ckaster500 · Post by **ckaster500** » May 7th, 2009, 5:18 am

Ok that sounds like I can handle it then. Now on the functionality of the clutch, If this thing does not engage at an idle then when I am go down a long technical hill (idlling) will it stay engaged so i am ridding against the engine or not? Or am I just free wheeling down the hill with just my brakes?

torque monster · Post by **torque monster** » May 7th, 2009, 10:44 am

ckaster500 wrote:Ok that sounds like I can handle it then. Now on the functionality of the clutch, If this thing does not engage at an idle then when I am go down a long technical hill (idlling) will it stay engaged so i am ridding against the engine or not? Or am I just free wheeling down the hill with just my brakes?

At idle you should be free wheeling on the clutch, otherwise the dragging of the clutch plates would make your bike heat up very quickly which would be very bad.

ckaster500 · Post by **ckaster500** » May 7th, 2009, 2:12 pm

I was told that this thing works very well for hils trails. That is what really interested me in bying one. Do you think I made a mistake and after a while , want to put my old clutch back on?

torque monster · Post by **torque monster** » May 7th, 2009, 2:35 pm

ckaster500 wrote:I was told that this thing works very well for hils trails. That is what really interested me in bying one. Do you think I made a mistake and after a while , want to put my old clutch back on?

No, most people love the auto clutches when setup properly, especially on a bike with a lot of torque. Been told you can do standing starts with auto clutch on crazy steep hills without hardly any wheel spin. I think people get used to the feeling very quickly and rarely are they disappointed. Not the say it's for eveyone, but most like them.

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