suspension magician needed....

plick_99 · Post by **plick_99** » July 15th, 2008, 5:47 pm

Hello all, I just rode the 01 Gen 2 500 AF for the first time, two days ago and Im still having troubles sitting down.
according to the sticker on the forks they were set up in 06 and I understand they were set up for a 190 lb woods rider.
I tried adjusting the compression all the way down and they still hit HARD.
I weigh in at 186 so I was suprised I couldnt dial them down.....Im not that much lighter. the rear shock seems very stiff as well.
Now before I ask I have to tell you I am suspension illiterate...
what Im wondering is would I be better off putting lighter springs in or should I have them re valved?....or maybe both?
I really dont know what direction to go right now....I thought maybe beause the bike was heavier with the 500 engine the 190 lb set up would work for me but it will not. Granted Im not woods riding, Im screaming through the woops in the desert trails but still.....
I rode 3 other bikes and all of them out did my new ride in the suspension area...
the best was a 97 cr 500 that had just been re valved and sprung...man that bike floated over everything....next best was an 08 KTM 250, very plush and I also rode an 04 crf450, the suspension was way nicer than mine but nothing like the other two bikes
I am considering using race-tech to set it up for me but I dont know what I need for the riding I do...I do know I want PREMIUM suspension.
any pearls of wisdom would be much appreciated.
Thanks.

arleybeer40 · Post by **arleybeer40** » July 15th, 2008, 5:57 pm

Woods equals softer. For desert you need stiffer, bigger hits more speed. Get it set up for your weiight and desert riding.

teemtrubble · Post by **teemtrubble** » July 15th, 2008, 6:05 pm

First of all the forget what the sticker say's you need to find out springs your running to start with then you can go to Racetech"s site use their spring calculator to determine the correct spring rate for your weight. There are other factors but, unless your riding Supercross or FMX which are the exceptions the rates will be the same. Then I would reccomend fresh fluid and recharge. That would be where I'd start. If that doesn't work for you or you have questions call me my contact info is in the approved vendors section.

plick_99 · Post by **plick_99** » July 15th, 2008, 6:18 pm

teemtrubble wrote:First of all the forget what the sticker say's you need to find out springs your running to start with then you can go to Racetech"s site use their spring calculator to determine the correct spring rate for your weight. There are other factors but, unless your riding Supercross or FMX which are the exceptions the rates will be the same. Then I would reccomend fresh fluid and recharge. That would be where I'd start. If that doesn't work for you or you have questions call me my contact info is in the approved vendors section.

I will check the spring rate but as far as changing the oil....from what I see in the manual that looks like a total teardown of the forks which may be a bit beyond me...having never been in a ANY fork before let alone an dual chamber..
Thanks for the tips.. maybe I can get the right spring rates for me and then have the local shop service my shock and forks....

teemtrubble · Post by **teemtrubble** » July 15th, 2008, 6:22 pm

Where are you located?

plick_99 · Post by **plick_99** » July 15th, 2008, 6:34 pm

Dallas Oregon

teemtrubble · Post by **teemtrubble** » July 15th, 2008, 7:39 pm

Just feel free to contact me if you have more questions.

plick_99 · Post by **plick_99** » July 15th, 2008, 8:00 pm

I appreciate that Mike, I will do that.

Shane

teemtrubble · Post by **teemtrubble** » July 15th, 2008, 8:08 pm

Your welcome and I'm sure I can help you out and think you should get more for your money when it comes to your suspension then what the big guy's are charging and by the way I'm a Pro Circuit, Race Tech and Marzocchi dealer.

iggys-amsoil · Post by **iggys-amsoil** » July 15th, 2008, 10:59 pm

Something to consider, the Racetech chart for spring rates is good, however the guy that did mine found out from other AF's before mine that because of the extra 7 lbs of the motor (compared to the 250) go up one size on the spring rate.

The rear is great but the front at times is harsh, mostly noticed by shorting tables with launcher type ramps (Perris). Guess if I didn't short tables I'd never notice.

TT any idea what to do to fix harshness in the front? Pretty sure more oil was added this time with new seals installed, I had to soften the clickers by four clicks to get them the same as before the new seals.

redrocket190 · Post by **redrocket190** » July 16th, 2008, 7:41 am

Try having a little less oil height. It will reduce the effect of the air spring during the mid-range, but still leave you bottoming resistance. The other is thing - are you old school like me - and favoring the rear wheel over the front when you jump?

Post by **AlisoBob** » July 16th, 2008, 9:07 am

I have seen so much money dumped into suspension.... without adding these little gems...

http://www.slavensracing.com/p_speedbleed.htm

I've "Bled" other bikes forks... had the screws shoot out.

If you have pressure buildup, your forks are ALWAYS going to feel harsh.

teemtrubble · Post by **teemtrubble** » July 16th, 2008, 9:14 am

Mr redrocket190 is absolutly onto the issue with today's suspension tuners. When you have someone today freshen up your suspenders and you tell them set it up for MX the "black book" say's blah blah blah if your forks are 4 clicks off of what they were before service and they were done by the same guy they either have to much fluid or weren't bled properly. Most of todays MXer's I believe what redrocket190 is saying transition the landings on the front tire on the backside of the landings and if you case the landing it sucks it up however if you tag or overshoot the landing or land on the rear wheel it will make the forks feel harsh when the suspension cycles. I inspect every slider for nicks, bends and out of round conditions and hand polish all the components prior to reassembly. I prefer a plush endless buttery feel to a linear feel every time.

MICK · Post by **MICK** » July 16th, 2008, 10:45 am

These are the exact models I have. I sometimes wonder if they allow air to pass into the forks during extension. I bleed the forks so often it makes me think the 90% of riders who don't have these shouldn't be able to compress their forks an inch after 45 minutes.

The neat thing is compressing the forks using the tie down straps and pushing the magic red buttons, Insta-woods suspension. Extend the forks out and give them a push and you got MX legs again. Nice

Post by **AlisoBob** » July 16th, 2008, 11:08 am

You bought the best......

teemtrubble · Post by **teemtrubble** » July 16th, 2008, 11:14 am

I'm sure Iggy is bleeding his forks.

iggys-amsoil · Post by **iggys-amsoil** » July 16th, 2008, 10:06 pm

teemtrubble wrote:I'm sure Iggy is bleeding his forks.

Yes I am. not everytime but most.

And Redrockets right, I am oldschool and land on the rear most of the time.

The first time I had the forks done the owner did them, this time was either his son or a worker so I'm sure thats what the dif is.

Now Q is how much oil to take out and is that to be done at the top upper chamber?

Post by **AlisoBob** » July 16th, 2008, 10:13 pm

You should bleed them every moto....

ou812 · Post by **ou812** » July 16th, 2008, 11:31 pm

iggys-amsoil · Post by **iggys-amsoil** » July 17th, 2008, 10:49 pm

AlisoBob wrote:You should bleed them every moto....

Ya I know. Now that I have clearance for the bleeders I don't have anymore excuses.

TYSTYX · Post by **TYSTYX** » September 19th, 2008, 2:08 pm

AlisoBob wrote:You bought the best......

Hey Bob, are the bodies of those bleeders made of aluminum ? I had a Motion Pro beeder snap off as I was installing it, and I didnt even tighten it very much.

MICK · Post by **MICK** » September 20th, 2008, 11:56 am

Yeah they're aluminum. I wouldn't say you "tighten" them at all. They come with this little hokey wrench you snug it down with, it's only about an inch long? Inch and a half maybe?? Point is you could overtighten them using a pair of pliers.

I bleed them every time I stop...and every time they go "PSSHH"

100hp honda · Post by **100hp honda** » October 15th, 2008, 7:37 pm

plick_99 wrote:
teemtrubble wrote:First of all the forget what the sticker say's you need to find out springs your running to start with then you can go to Racetech"s site use their spring calculator to determine the correct spring rate for your weight. There are other factors but, unless your riding Supercross or FMX which are the exceptions the rates will be the same. Then I would reccomend fresh fluid and recharge. That would be where I'd start. If that doesn't work for you or you have questions call me my contact info is in the approved vendors section.
I will check the spring rate but as far as changing the oil....from what I see in the manual that looks like a total teardown of the forks which may be a bit beyond me...having never been in a ANY fork before let alone an dual chamber..
Thanks for the tips.. maybe I can get the right spring rates for me and then have the local shop service my shock and forks....

tearing apart the suspension looks spooky, until you do it once then its no big deal. i had the same fear until i busted out the tools and got to business. you need a few special tools but they arent much money. or if dont plan to even tear into your suspension again then it might be more cost efficient to have mike do it for you

BannedCR500Riders.com

suspension magician needed....

suspension magician needed....