87 upgrade to 250 clutch?

[nathaniel]

I already posted a thread about an issue with my clutch dragging, but have decided to skip tracking down the problem, and just replace everything. This is because I don't trust the person who put this thing together before I bought it. That, and I don't feel like fixing one problem, only to find another one. The one good thing the previous owner did was replacing the clutch case with the 90-01 case. So that's one major part of this upgrade I don't have to worry about. What follows are diagrams, followed by a list of the parts with numbers corresponding to that pic, then part number, name, and price (with quantity when more than one is necessary). What I need is for someone who knows what parts are required for this conversion to either confirm, or correct this list. I also need to know specific details for modifying the clutch basket, and lifter rod length. The machinist where I work will make the required changes, but not without a schematic. I just need to know where to take off how much metal in thousandths of an inch,  so I can draw one up for him.

1987 CR500R OEM replacement

K28-5502
Clutch Cable
$12.95

Is there a "best" cable that has been found to last longer, or perform better? Is 13 bucks a decent price? Any suggestions?

1990 CR500R OEM replacement



6
22810-ML3-000
LIFTER, CLUTCH
$41.30

17
91201-951-003
OIL SEAL (12X18X3)
$2.13

15
91101-PZ9-000
BEARING (12X16X10)
$4.62  X2

1990 CR500R OEM replacement



12
22851-HA2-670
ROD, CLUTCH LIFTER
$11.17

If this part has to be modified, how much has to be taken off in thousandths of an inch?

2002 CR250R OEM replacement



15
90022-MM5-000
BOLT-WASHER (6X25)
$1.73 X6

Are these the correct bolts, or should I be using 500 parts here (part 22 in the 1990 clutch diagram)?

1
13115-147-000
CLIP (10MM)
$1.21

21
90608-072-000
WASHER (12MM)
$2.27

22
91001-147-003
BEARING (12MM)
$6.60

11
22352-ML3-910
PIECE, CLUTCH LIFTER
$17.63

16
90235-KA4-000
NUT (18MM)
$5.51

19
90461-KZ3-J10
WASHER, LOCK (18MM)
$3.54

20
90501-ML3-910
WASHER (18X32X2)
$2.53

18
90421-HA2-010
WASHER (23X48)
$5.47

23
91021-ML3-003
BEARING (28X32X27.2)
$9.35

5
22106-KS7-000
COLR, CLUTCH (OUTER)
$13.79

2002 CR250R aftermarket replacement


(credit 2strokeforever 5/25/12)

1131-0151
Barnett
Billet Clutch Basket
$201.00

Is this the correct basket? It is the only one I could find that fit the description of having stainless steel inserts where it contacts the friction plates.

1132-0227
Wiseco
Inner Clutch Hub
$249.98

Correct for this upgrade? I guess this brand warranties their product for life.

HPK-80DCF
Barnett
Complete Dirt Digger Clutch Kit - Carbon Fiber
$156.37

Will the new EBC springs I already have for the 87 500 work with the modern 250 clutch? If so, is there somewhere I can buy just the friction disks, and steel plates?

1132-0412
Barnett
Billet Pressure Plate
$140.70

The photo on partzilla isn't the same as above, but it's all they have for the 02 cr250. Could it just be a stock photo?

I really REALLY need some help with all this! Thanks a million for any contribution, I'll owe you a drink!

P.S. sorry for the long list.

[2strokeforever]

just shave down the lip on the outside of the basket so it dosent rub
and then assemble everything and you need to get the 250 push rod and shave it down till your clutch arm is in the middle of its travel, as the clutch wears it will drop the clutch rod

make sure the shaved end goes to the throwout bearing
dosent matter what throwoutr you use, same with clutch arm
that rod is real hard, i used a drill and bench grinder to shave it down

i used stock 500 springs, they seem to work

barnett basket does notch, tusk clutch works fine and is cheap, comes with hd springs too if youre into that kind of thing

[2strokeforever]

youll want to use the 250 washer that goes in between the basket and hub
and Im pretty sure you need the 250 small gear on the basket that runs the kicker

[Roostius_Maximus]

the motion pro heavy braid cable 2002-03 cr250
I'n the posts I'd made about how to do this a long damn time ago were pictures of the basket on the lathe and what was trimmed, might be here, was also on cr500riders.com

[nathaniel]

I think that's number 18 washer 23x48 on the 250 clutch diagram that goes between the hub and basket. All the little bits I listed are from the 02 cr250 except the lifter arm, it's two bearings, seal, and lifter rod. So I need to switch the lifter rod (#12 in the 500 clutch diagram) to the #13 lifter rod in the 250 diagram? Where would I find the gear you mentioned that runs the kicker? I was hoping to just use the gears off my original clutch basket, they look OK. I think I forgot to add cushions too, that basket doesn't mention them being included.

I can't seem to find that motion pro heavy braided cable for the 250, do you know what the part number for that is, or have a link to where I can buy one? I haven't found the old thread that outlines this swap either, but haven't checked the riders forum yet... any idea what I could search for to bring it up?

Thanks for the help so far, I can't wait to order this stuff and actually start 'er up and go for a ride. Heh, is it legal to mail someone a beer in canada?

[2strokeforever]

Where would I find the gear you mentioned that runs the kicker?

a $20 roached ebay cr250 basket

[nathaniel]

Roosti, are you talking about the motion pro terminator clutch cable? Would it be OK to send you a PM directly?

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/a ... 82545.html

I still haven't found a cable described as heavy braided. I did find this on the riders forum though. (edit: my iPad is retarded, this was on the thread I first stumbled on this idea, but wasn't loading the pic.... Now it does oh well)



So I only have to take down the diameter of the basket at it's base where it flares out, the part where the finish is machined off in your pic, correct? It would really help me convince my friend at work to turn it for me if I knew exactly how many thousandths had to come off..  :?:

so i decided to put the complete 250 clutch on... roosty is right the 250 pushrod is too short, and the 500 one is too long, you only need to shorten the 500 one a few mm

You need to get the 250 push rod and shave it down till your clutch arm is in the middle of its travel

Soooo....? Can't I just shorten my old one as long as at least one end is intact, and put the modified end facing the throw out bearing, or do I need to start with a 250 lifter rod?

If I can't buy that gear new I'll just worry about it later.

[2strokeforever]

nevermind im mixed up, shorten the 500 one

[nathaniel]

OK, ordered everything except the cable, and added a hinson clutch cushion replacement kit. I'm still not sure witch cable you were refering to, but it looks like amazon has a wide range of motion pro stuff cheaper than PZ, so no rush. I'll post again when the parts arrive, and I have exact specs figured out for the length of the lifter rod, and basket diameter. I'm thinking of using the stock basket's diameter as a guide.

Meanwhile, I guess I need the small gear off of a 250 basket, so if anyone has a clean one they could spare, I'll buy it.

Thanks

[nathaniel]

Figured this thread could use some closure. I hate when stuff like this is left hanging, so I'd better not do it myself

Anyways, everything is installed and works fine. She doesn't lurch forward anymore when you put it in gear. Neutral is slightly easier to find, but not perfect. I'll figure that out later.

I didn't get a chance to measure the lifter rod length or the clutch basket diameter. All I can say about the length of the lifter rod is that the arm ((6) 22810-ML3-000 LIFTER, CLUTCH) is facing straight out to the side without the clutch lever being touched. As for the basket, I completely removed the raised portion at the base. The small gear came from a 94 cr250r basket I got from eBay.

So thanks again for the help!

[2strokeforever]

a trick i use on mine, i like to keep the clutch arm in the middle of the travel, i made the rod a little too short and use valve shims (i think 7.48mm dia) to keep it there as it wears

lately i have been putting a steel in first to move the plates out so they hammer down the high spots on the basket (yes the barnett basket)
this requires some small washers to space out the spring bolts, an another valve shim the thickness of a plate