www.500conversions.com update

Kuma · Post by **Kuma** » April 28th, 2012, 8:26 am

Mik329 wrote:You can keep the Boyesen cover on easy. I'm working the same chassis and all I did was heat and bend the brake lever in two spots. Bend out closer to pivot and back in towards pedal.

How much heat? propane torch?

ZETTNORCAL · Post by **ZETTNORCAL** » April 28th, 2012, 8:59 am

Kuma wrote:
Mik329 wrote:You can keep the Boyesen cover on easy. I'm working the same chassis and all I did was heat and bend the brake lever in two spots. Bend out closer to pivot and back in towards pedal.
How much heat? propane torch?

I used a plumbers torch with MAP gas

Nodge · Post by **Nodge** » April 28th, 2012, 12:38 pm

I'll trade you a nice used stock cover for that boysen one if you don't want to bend anything!
I have a boysen ignition cover that needs a match!

warrnum · Post by **warrnum** » April 28th, 2012, 1:42 pm

Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the Kool advise, it was really bugging me last night so when I got home on dusk I went out to the shed with a torch (no power out there ) and dicked around with what Grant susgested I try. There was a little more adjustment in the clevis than I thaught and between that and and 3 stainless washers and maybe a little heat treatment I should have it in a workable position. There is not 1mm of adjutment left though I had to use it all. To be honest I didnt realize it could be adjusted up that much, but the point is I shouldnt have had to do it in the first place. I will rip the rim off tomorrow, take the hub out send it over and wait again.

Post by **AlisoBob** » April 28th, 2012, 2:19 pm

ZETTNORCAL wrote: MAP gas

MAP friggin' gets things done.

Post by **AlisoBob** » April 28th, 2012, 2:33 pm

warrnum wrote: There is not 1mm of adjutment left though I had to use it all.

You dont want it at some funky angle where you gotta' go hunting for it...

The pedal needs to be in the proper position.

cr500beercan · Post by **cr500beercan** » April 29th, 2012, 3:20 am

Dude no need to heat and bend nothing , get a brake lever off a x model you will not have to modify nothing already comes out further than the R model clears everything VERY nice have one on my bike I can shoot you a pic of you like , can't believe BOB didn't know this already haha

cr500beercan · Post by **cr500beercan** » April 29th, 2012, 3:24 am

I don't think anybody knows about the X model rear brake lever HAHA

cr500beercan · Post by **cr500beercan** » April 29th, 2012, 4:09 am

The fitment of a STOCK CRF450X brake pedal

[/img]

warrnum · Post by **warrnum** » April 29th, 2012, 4:18 pm

Wow beercan that looks unreal, I had shimmed it out obout 4mm and dropped it down as far as it would go and it is still only a few mm away from the case, but it would have worked, thanks for the pic that looks great, what year lever is it?? is it a 08 same as roller or doesnt it matter. Thank you for the great advice. Is yours still shimmed out or is it allot thicker behind where the bolt is fitted ?

warrnum · Post by **warrnum** » April 29th, 2012, 4:20 pm

And I am curios does your kickstarter hit the peg? not allot but just enough to put a small ding in it. I was just wondering if this is a regular thing or its another small issue I have with mine..

cr500beercan · Post by **cr500beercan** » April 29th, 2012, 4:28 pm

There is no shims behind the pedal and you can get one off of a 250 or a 450 as long as its an X model and I believe that any 05- 08 will work for you maybe even a older one will work but I know for sure an 05-06 will, as far as the kick starter yea I think that's pretty common

cr500beercan · Post by **cr500beercan** » April 29th, 2012, 4:31 pm

What year is your bike? Mine is an 05 crf450r based model with an 06 crf450x pedal

cr500beercan · Post by **cr500beercan** » April 29th, 2012, 4:34 pm

And moist not thicker back there it's actually just comes out with the right bend that's probably 12mm more than the R model pedal , it's really perfect !!!! I suggest everyone use them , you can get one on eBay for like 30$ but lots of people are parting them out also on Craigslist

cr500beercan · Post by **cr500beercan** » April 29th, 2012, 4:40 pm

Go I would give you another pic , I'm holding the R model one that everyone has to heat and bend the X model is mounted , look at the obvious difference in the bend NICE HUH

[/img]

warrnum · Post by **warrnum** » April 29th, 2012, 7:19 pm

Thats a huge differance beercan, certainly seems the way to go. My roller is a 08250f. I will certainly have a look on ebay and see what I can get. Here in Australia its a little harder to pick things up on craigs list, payment wise etc, for me anyhow. Thankyou for taking the time to post and take the pics mate, that will be a great way to fix the current issue I have with out making it look homemade. Cheers

reef · Post by **reef** » May 1st, 2012, 4:19 pm

warrnum wrote:Thats a huge differance beercan, certainly seems the way to go. My roller is a 08250f. I will certainly have a look on ebay and see what I can get. Here in Australia its a little harder to pick things up on craigs list, payment wise etc, for me anyhow. Thankyou for taking the time to post and take the pics mate, that will be a great way to fix the current issue I have with out making it look homemade. Cheers

Fab a spacer, or just use 4-5 washers. You have a gap where the brake pedal connects in those photos you Bob and I. If that doesn't clear enough space heat and bend it.

cr500beercan · Post by **cr500beercan** » May 1st, 2012, 5:14 pm

The bolt is only so long , and the heating and bending yea if there not a better solution , if a company offered a brake pedal specifically for a 500af everyone would buy it , so why mess with the stock one shim it out heat bend make it look shity , when the fix is a nice perfect fitting brake pedal no mods needed looks great functions right looks factory that cost 20-30$????

reef · Post by **reef** » May 1st, 2012, 6:18 pm

This is Jason's brake pedal.

I hope this helps...

reef · Post by **reef** » May 1st, 2012, 6:21 pm

Jason did you loosen it in that photo, or did it come like that.

warrnum · Post by **warrnum** » May 3rd, 2012, 3:18 am

hey reef I had loosened it a bit to see how far it had to come out the bolt was tight when it arrived, since then I have adjusted it up the clevis as far as it will go and packed it out with 4 stainless washers. I havent heated it or bent it yet but with the amount I have adjusted and packed it out the amount of gap is not allot. Reef did you have to heat yours?? At the end of the day its not a big deal but its not the point this shit should have been sorted before the bike was sent out. I have sent Grant the hub, it will take a week or so to get there, then will wait and see. He has been helpful so far and has answered all my emails. I have asked for a bit of bling for the bike for all the trouble, lets see what it comes up with. Apart from all the weeks behind I am now it cost $50 to send the hub over. I hope he throws in a couple goodies.

warrnum · Post by **warrnum** » May 3rd, 2012, 3:31 am

I was told originally the bike had less than 20 hours on the engine, because of all the other issues there has been I have not had a chance to try it out properly as yet and I sure will be a few more weeks before I can. The screw where the viewing window should be is a concern. Maybe its less than 20 hours after its 3rd rebuild. So the engine is a concern at the moment. I was so upset when I picked the bike up not because of what I had seen but of possibly of what I cant see. If a bike is going to be sent out with such obvious issue it scares me what could be hidden underneath.

reef · Post by **reef** » May 3rd, 2012, 3:51 am

warrnum wrote:I was told originally the bike had less than 20 hours on the engine, because of all the other issues there has been I have not had a chance to try it out properly as yet and I sure will be a few more weeks before I can. The screw where the viewing window should be is a concern. Maybe its less than 20 hours after its 3rd rebuild. So the engine is a concern at the moment. I was so upset when I picked the bike up not because of what I had seen but of possibly of what I cant see. If a bike is going to be sent out with such obvious issue it scares me what could be hidden underneath.

Empty the oil, and replace it with the correct amount. My screw to check the oil is in so tight I can't get to it either.

You can pick up manuals for the CR500 on Ebay for a few dollars.

kevin_s · Post by **kevin_s** » May 3rd, 2012, 5:51 am

I think you guy's should quit giving this guy a break and put up a buyer beware sticky.I mean come on,the guy has no pride in workmanship if they are leaving his place with this many problems.
Worn out sprockets on a new build? come the fuck on,fuck this asshat.
You guy's might think you are dollars ahead getting a bike from this hack but apparently not.
Do yourself a favor and buy one from Stoffers,GTS fab works,Dogger,these guy's have proven that they put out quality bikes and stand behind them.
This has been a public service announcement from Hoons against Asshats...

warrnum · Post by **warrnum** » May 3rd, 2012, 8:22 pm

Hey Kevin S I certainly didnt think I was $ ahead at a price tag of $7500, but you do live and learn, I love the 500's and after many years off bikes I didnt want to come back on anything else. I looked around and I thaught I had found the best value bike I could for the money, but thanks to Bob and all the guys on this site things are looking up. But yes you are correct even though I am having some issues if it wasnt for this bike I would have had to get a yz250 or something as I cannot afford the price tag of $14000 plus the service hondas go for out here. Grant just needs to realize that there is more to it than just slapping a bike togeather to make a profit

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www.500conversions.com update