Dynorun completed.

[johnnytheswede]

Hi guys! Today i've been down to a friend of mine to get my homeported 500 dynotested. I didn't really know what to expect, but everything worked out as it should. We did 3x3 pulls and this was done on a rolling road dyno, so we measured at the rear wheel with supermoto tyres. I have a PC pipe on it to start with and we did the first run with JD's red needle in richest clip pos., 180 main. This gave 59 BHP at the wheel at only 5800 rpm.

Next run we changed to the Dynoport Big volume pipe, and went down to a 175 main as it was a little rich with 180. This gave 61,8 BHP at the wheel. Instead it was a little lean this time and lost a little power at the last pulls.

The last pull we did was back to 180 main, but we would gain a little more power with a 178, but i didn't have that one unfortunately.
This gave 62,79 BHP at the wheel at 5800 rpm and 78NM of torque. That would be slightly over 65 BHP the way power is measured in the US.
We do it slightly different, but i don't know what the difference is, but in the dyno program you can choose European or American power measurements.
The Dynoport pipe gave close to 4 BHP more between 4000 to 6500 rpm compared to the ProCircuit, but the PC pulled 500 rpm longer.
Johnny

We used regular 95 octane pump gas and 3% oilmix, standard BR8EG plug.

I'm satisfyed with that! A link to Youtube will come when we have finished the movies.

Johnny

[AlisoBob]

Good info... Thanks!

[johnnytheswede]

Good info... Thanks!

Your Welcome:=).

Johnny

[Cholo]

Very good numbers Johnny!! The gain with the Dynoport pipe is evident. I am surprised about the fact that the Dynoport gave the power earlier than the PC.

[johnnytheswede]

Very good numbers Johnny!! The gain with the Dynoport pipe is evident. I am surprised about the fact that the Dynoport gave the power earlier than the PC.

Hello Cholo! Thanks! yes, i'm surprised about the pipe too. I was out a moment ago and tried it with the Dynoport pipe, and it's soo strong! talk about torque! You have to be careful!


Here's our dynomovie on Youtube:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3NtKKAA ... e=youtu.be[/youtube]

[Kuma]

No fan on the rad while making your runs?

[johnnytheswede]

No fan on the rad while making your runs?

There's a fan in front of the bike. Maybe it's not visible. Everything is under control=)!

[Cholo]

I believed that the chaos was only present in my garage, but I feel confortable seeing that the swedish men are like me

Next will be the mine, I talked with my friend to carry the bike to his dyno, but first, I need solve my cylinder head problems and put a rear SM wheel...

The torque is higher in the Dynoport, but how do you feel the overrev between the PC and the Dynoport?

[100hp honda]

nice work . can you explain about the rear wheel setup ?

[2strokeforever]

good info

which dynoport did you use? and how big is the dynoport pipe? does it stick out making it more likely to get smashed?

[johnnytheswede]

I believed that the chaos was only present in my garage, but I feel confortable seeing that the swedish men are like me

Next will be the mine, I talked with my friend to carry the bike to his dyno, but first, I need solve my cylinder head problems and put a rear SM wheel...

The torque is higher in the Dynoport, but how do you feel the overrev between the PC and the Dynoport?

Hahaa! Fortunately that's not my garage looking like that;=).
I tried the bike yesterday, just a short burst, and it's really strong, and the hard metallic sound from the Dynoport is really nice! As it was quite cold and a little wet i couldn't give it a real test, but i can say i notice the difference. As soon as it dries up outside i will make a full run and my son can film that too.

Johnny

[johnnytheswede]

nice work . can you explain about the rear wheel setup ?

The rear wheel is actually for a Yamaha 2000-2001 model, but the guy i bought the wheels from had them on a Honda CRF 450, and before that a KTM. They also fit perfect on my Husky 300. The only thing i change is spacers and i add a 5mm plate between the rear sprocket and the hub for the 500 as the chain will rub my tire(which it does anyway). I used a 165/55 rear slick tire before but changed to a 160/60 super sport tire, but that tire was wider... So next time i will use cut slick at the rear, just like at the front.
The rim is 5 inches wide, and it's a very tight fit. I had to cut off the front mounting point for the chain guide to be able to squeeze the rim in. Now it works good though=)! For an easy fit i would use a 4,5 inch rim with 150 wide tire. The only thing i have to laborate with is the axle spacer between the bearings to fit the different axle diameters and change bearings. Almost every bike has a rear hub width of 150-155mm and that is the most important to get right for sprocket/ disc fitting.

Johnny

[johnnytheswede]

good info

which dynoport did you use? and how big is the dynoport pipe? does it stick out making it more likely to get smashed?

I use the handbuilt MT Big volume pipe with silencer and Ceramic coating. The pipe has a perfect fit and very nice welds. Even a stabilising plate at the header pipe is welded in place. I can't say that it's sticking out that much actually. Just a little more than the PC pipe. I will put on a pipe protector before i start using it on the ice, the ones that looks like a spine made of alloy.

Johnny