Im an idiot when it comes to relays, everytime Ive messed with them before stuff ended up smoking or melting
Im gonna wire my nitrous tonight and insted of using the one relay that came with the kit Ive bought another so the pingle kill switch isnt gonna have to be turning the pump on and off.
I came up with what I think will work, all sparkys please speak up!
Dont laugh I did it on paint this morning
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
Why deviate from the intended design?
I don't see any reason why your drawing wouldn't work either.
The pic I show has your throttle switch providing a ground for the relay, where as yours is going to have power going through it. It takes more amperage to open the nitrous solenoid because of the pressure against it.
Make sure your switch will handle the amperage.
I grounded all of my ground wires to the factory ground point also.
The only load the throttle switch is going to see is the 100 or so milliamps to trigger the second relay (I think...)
I drilled two holes and put some small bolts on opposite sides of the airbox as a main pos/ground im tying everything into those two points.
I just wired the pingle and throttle swiches and handled the power and ground, I got stopped when I ran out of connectors for the solenoids, I also need a way or connector to tie both solenoids together, one that I can unclip easily for tank removal.
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
It will work Brit!
There is lots of ways to wire that circuit.
I don't know anything about NOS setups so does the fuel pump have to be on before the solenoids kick in or can it be turned on with the solenoids? Also how much current does the pump pull?
Because if it can come on with them and doesn't pull alot of current then you could still get away with just using one solenoid!
slomas wrote:Why deviate from the intended design?
I really dint like the pump running through that ($120 ) pingle switch, its bound to fry at some point.
You're an electrical engineer now brit? Don't be second guessing the designers dude. I think I'd be for trusting the Pingel over some $5 toggle as shown on the intended drawing. And if the engineers trusted a toggle....
No longer have a CR500.
07 Yamaha YZ250, 17 Husqvarna 701 Enduro
Get on with riding or get on with dying. https://www.youtube.com/mojoscojo
In Slomo's example, if either the relay or microswitch fails in the closed position...your going for quite a ride. I doubt your getting your fingers on that toggle.
In Brits example, you have 2 methods to shut the thing down ( Pingle and microswitch)
Why not just insert the Pingel after the fuel pump and before terminal 86 in Slomo's example? That way you have 3 ways to shut her down, only 1 relay and you're not running the fuel pump through the Pingel.
I still think it makes more sense to just run the Pingel in series with the toggle so you run the fuel pump off the Pingel and not mess with another relay. The simplest solution is usually the most failsafe.
No longer have a CR500.
07 Yamaha YZ250, 17 Husqvarna 701 Enduro
Get on with riding or get on with dying. https://www.youtube.com/mojoscojo
From what Ive read those little pumps use between 2 and 4 amps to run, that dosnt take into account the starting requirement, Ill bet thats another couple of amps easy.
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
That 6 amp rating is gonna be a continuous rating. Your inrush for starting a motor of that size is going to last maybe 1/10 of a second. Not an issue. I still think you're good to go.
It's your bike, and your safety we're talking about though.
No longer have a CR500.
07 Yamaha YZ250, 17 Husqvarna 701 Enduro
Get on with riding or get on with dying. https://www.youtube.com/mojoscojo
Its not the low voltage, its the colapsing magnetic field of the solenoids and the high voltage they produce. It will arc somewhat across the relay. If you were doing this 100% correct, you would install some diodes to block this from eating the relay contacts ( over a long period of many cycles)
AlisoBob wrote: If you were doing this 100% correct, you would install some diodes to block this from eating the relay contacts ( over a long period of many cycles)
A relay is a hell of a lot cheaper than the pingle.
Coolness list by 90cr500guy
Bob's = 50/50
Cepek = cool
Solidbro = cool
Brit = loser
Stoffer = 1 up from Brit
MFDB = cool
Danny = ok
We're not talking about running the solenoid through the pingle. We're talking about the fuel pump. Like I said, if you don't want to run the fuel pum through the Pingel, then run it through the toggle and put the Pingel in series between the toggle and the relay after the fuel pump. But using the Pingel to cut off the fuel supply is, by far, the SAFEST solution. You're worried about the life expectancy of $100 part over your own safety. Foolish if you ask me. The conditions your talking about will easily take many YEARS to occur. You can get hurt in a HEARTBEAT.
No longer have a CR500.
07 Yamaha YZ250, 17 Husqvarna 701 Enduro
Get on with riding or get on with dying. https://www.youtube.com/mojoscojo
Brit, that nitrous install isn't finished!?!?
Who cares what switch you use, freaken put down the beer and finish it!!!!
Its taking you longer to do that than it took for me to do my A/F and I spent a lot of time on it!!!
'09 kx450f 4-Poke
Gen-4 trail bike --SOLD--
Gen-3 badass trail/mx bike --SOLD--
Gen-1 built dunes bike --SOLD--
'05 klx110 --SOLD--
'95 pw80
"the game of life of is not so much in holding a good hand as playing a poor hand well"
