oil
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- Posts: 4394
- Joined: July 4th, 2007, 6:57 pm
oil
what kind of oil everyone tried ?
atf type F and maxima sucked balls for me
rotella T seems to work good, probly the best ive tried
honda stuff worked ok
gonna try some gear oil soon 80w-90. probly order it tomorrow. should work good except for the initial few minutes until it thins out
atf type F and maxima sucked balls for me
rotella T seems to work good, probly the best ive tried
honda stuff worked ok
gonna try some gear oil soon 80w-90. probly order it tomorrow. should work good except for the initial few minutes until it thins out
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- Joined: July 4th, 2007, 6:57 pm
Re: oil
What are you using to base your judgement on? Clutch action, shifting or something else? I've been using walmart "super tech" 20-50w for 4+ years now with zero clutch or tranny issues. Tried the atf thing years ago one time. Gearbox was noisy as hell like there was a cushion effect or something to thin about it.100hp honda wrote:what kind of oil everyone tried ?
rotella T seems to work good, probly the best ive tried
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- Joined: July 4th, 2007, 6:57 pm
basing it on how well the tranny works. you think im a rotella represenative or somethin ?
type f made the plates stick so much it clanked bad going into first and hard to get back in neutral. doesnt seem like much cushion between the gears either. maxima stuff wasnt much better for me. rotella shifts pretty smooth and no clunks, hard to say how well it holds up to the shear forces so thats why i change at 4hrs max.
type f made the plates stick so much it clanked bad going into first and hard to get back in neutral. doesnt seem like much cushion between the gears either. maxima stuff wasnt much better for me. rotella shifts pretty smooth and no clunks, hard to say how well it holds up to the shear forces so thats why i change at 4hrs max.
Nah, I was just wondering how you decided one was good over the other.100hp honda wrote:basing it on how well the tranny works. you think im a rotella represenative or somethin ?
I think rotella is as good as any to use in the gearbox. I've always wondered why people spend high $$$ on oil for the tranny. I change mine on what would be equal to about every 100 miles +/- 10 or so miles.
Just the regular "dino" stuff...Kuma wrote:Full synthetic or blend?AlisoBob wrote:I like the Rotella too....
Quiet and shifts like buddah'.....
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 90222_0_0_
- iggys-amsoil
- Posts: 3602
- Joined: June 1st, 2007, 6:09 pm
- Location: Just North of March Airfield CA
4Z wrote:"not another oil thread..." LOL
I have been running Amsoil 10-40 scooter in the box.
80W-90 is what is suppose to be in there from the dealer new. Then 10W-40 there after.
Its in the shop manuel
Trinity Racing mild porting FMF
62 pilot, EGH needle, 172 main
03 Gen III CR250 frame
2013 Dodger Charger 5.7 Hemi
http://www.prisonplanet.com
Your Amsoil Customer # 350882
62 pilot, EGH needle, 172 main
03 Gen III CR250 frame
2013 Dodger Charger 5.7 Hemi
http://www.prisonplanet.com
Your Amsoil Customer # 350882
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
should never use any automotive synthetic oil, all of it is "energy conserving" and your manual specificaly says not to use this
or your clutch will slip
even most 10.30 and 5.30 for cars is no good
i think diesel motor oil is good
or your clutch will slip
even most 10.30 and 5.30 for cars is no good
i think diesel motor oil is good
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
4stroke=dead fish
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
I shop at Autozone for the most part. At last glance....only the lighter Syn and Dino oils, like 10w30, 10w20, 5w20, were energy-conserving. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils I have found were not energy-conserving and can be recommended for wet clutch use.
As far as viscosities are concerned..... 40 wt. engine oil and 90 wt. gear oil interchange......
As far as viscosities are concerned..... 40 wt. engine oil and 90 wt. gear oil interchange......
Zinc Dialkyldithiophosphate: Affectionately known as “ZDDP”, this miracle multi-purpose chemical and has been the chief anti-wear (AW), extreme pressure (EP), and anti-oxidant (AO) additive for decades. It is so effective and low cost that it is virtually irreplaceable, which is why it survives all efforts to remove phosphorus (P) from oils to protect the catalyst. With modern oils putting caps on the maximum P allowed, other additives are now being used to supplement this old standard, such as Molybdenum anti-wear compounds and ashless anti-oxidants.
Zinc was in all oil because motors used to have flat tappet cams.
Newer motors = roller cams = no zinc.
Zinc was in all oil because motors used to have flat tappet cams.
Newer motors = roller cams = no zinc.
- 2strokeforever
- Posts: 1524
- Joined: November 13th, 2009, 1:04 pm
- Location: Vernon B.C Canada
good chart... im going to try APs tractor fluid as soon as my bike is going...
this about says it
• Lubricate the transmission, differential and final drive gears
• Act as a power steering, power brake, power take off and implement final drive fluid
• Provide a medium with the correct friction and heat transfer properties for proper operation
of the tractor wet brakes and power take-off units
Exceptional extreme pressure and anti-wear performance protects tractor transmissions,
axles, and hydraulic pumps.
• Frictional characteristics help minimize “chatter” while enabling the proper operation of
wet brakes. This frictional balance also provides smooth engagement of the power take-off clutch
• Provides excellent rust and corrosion protection and good oxidation stability for high
temperature service
• Meets the SAE viscosity grade of 10W-30, API Service Classification SF/CC, and API GL-4
this about says it
• Lubricate the transmission, differential and final drive gears
• Act as a power steering, power brake, power take off and implement final drive fluid
• Provide a medium with the correct friction and heat transfer properties for proper operation
of the tractor wet brakes and power take-off units
Exceptional extreme pressure and anti-wear performance protects tractor transmissions,
axles, and hydraulic pumps.
• Frictional characteristics help minimize “chatter” while enabling the proper operation of
wet brakes. This frictional balance also provides smooth engagement of the power take-off clutch
• Provides excellent rust and corrosion protection and good oxidation stability for high
temperature service
• Meets the SAE viscosity grade of 10W-30, API Service Classification SF/CC, and API GL-4
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
4stroke=dead fish
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- Posts: 4394
- Joined: July 4th, 2007, 6:57 pm
yes and thats why im going to try some gear oil 80w-90. the down side is the low temp viscosity may be shit but at higher temp is should be like a 40 grade oil like rotella. plus it has EP additives and no friction modifiers in the stuff im going to try. called the distibutor today, hopefully get it shipped tomorow. if it dont work as planned ill stay with rotella. no harm in trying something newAlisoBob wrote:As far as viscosities are concerned..... 40 wt. engine oil and 90 wt. gear oil interchange......
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- Posts: 4394
- Joined: July 4th, 2007, 6:57 pm
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- Posts: 4394
- Joined: July 4th, 2007, 6:57 pm