500 A/F MX only set up

AMA714 · Post by **AMA714** » March 24th, 2011, 7:58 pm

Guys,

Just curious what the MX guys are running on the 500 A/F specifically Gen 4.
I have read the gearing sticky and read most posts related to gearing and set up, and seems most of the 500's will pull anything and everything.

I will have an 08 CRF250 with a 91 500 engine. It will be an MX only bike. I think I will start with 14-49 or 50... What can you guys offer for experience with this.

redrocket190 · Post by **redrocket190** » March 24th, 2011, 8:16 pm

I have 14T and 15T countershaft sprockets and 48T and 51T rear. Right now I am running 14/51 for GPs and MX.

Mik329 · Post by **Mik329** » March 26th, 2011, 11:59 am

I like 14/48 for moto and a skat 10 paddle, I used to go to a 50 for a 12 paddle

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » March 28th, 2011, 4:59 pm

redrocket190 wrote:I have 14T and 15T countershaft sprockets and 48T and 51T rear. Right now I am running 14/51 for GPs and MX.

yup

on most bikes it's the guy in first bike third that will get the job done, CR500 is more like the first guy in 4'th will BURY everybody on wheelbarrows full of roost. 14/51 pulls 4'th REAL good.

kdizzle · Post by **kdizzle** » March 28th, 2011, 5:05 pm

another vote for 14/50 third is real nasty with that setup, can ride the entire track most times in 3rd and 4th..

AMA714 · Post by **AMA714** » March 29th, 2011, 8:11 am

Perfect.. I run 14-50 on my CRF450 so I have a few extra sprockets kicking around.
Since I am doing the 08 CRF250, Ill have a 1.85 rear wheel. I hate to have to go get the 2.15 since this 250 only had 12 hours total run time...yes, it is MINT!!

Has anyone mounted a 110 on the skinny rim?

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » March 29th, 2011, 8:23 am

get a big rim, you want to put the powa to the ground, right? The skinny set up will corner good but you will spin like a bastard with that 1.85. It will make less contact patch for straight line work.

I run 18 X 2.5 or 19 X 2.15 depending on what tire I want to run. The 19 is nice with a Tubliss set up, more traction, less wear, less wheelspin, less weight.

I'd love to run a 19 X 2.5 but tire selection is very limiting at that size and no tubliss.

www.nuetec.com

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » March 29th, 2011, 8:27 am

Oh I would be saving your $$ for a respring and revalve, best $$ you will spend on a conversion. I like Factory connections work. If you don't you will not handle for crap unless you are a feather weight and your shock valving will still not be set up for all the HP.

AMA714 · Post by **AMA714** » March 29th, 2011, 8:49 am

Thanks Sean. The 250 was already valved for my weight and speed. Its not be a huge difference from the set up of my 450.

I cant see how the 500 would need to be changed for my ability? I assume ill be able to go as fast on the 500 as I can on my 450...lol

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » March 29th, 2011, 9:29 am

power effects the rear suspension. The 500 drives the wheel harder into the ground than your 4 stokes will, especially the 250. It will compress more every time you grab a handful and then will rebound to compensate. Basically your rear end will be squating when you are on the gas, I'm sure you look good on a chopper though

kdizzle · Post by **kdizzle** » March 29th, 2011, 3:03 pm

sean nailed it ... I had a near perfect suspension setup with my 4poke in there.. when the 500 conversion was complete i had to do some major changes to the shock. compression and rebound stack needed to be modified on the stiffer side. I also went from a 6.0 to a 6.3 shockspring to get it staying up in the stroke over chop when putting the power down.

Also while you will have tons of power on the straights, my corner speed suffered when moving to the smoker. The shorter gearing really helped me keep the motor spun up while in the corner thus keeping my speed up. if you havent ridden an AF i would say the motor is tougher to get good corner speed on than a 450.

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » March 29th, 2011, 7:24 pm

Kdizzle, are you running a CR250 ignition? makes cornering much better.

kdizzle · Post by **kdizzle** » March 30th, 2011, 1:16 pm

yessir ... 96 and i love it. It doesnt seem like it would make a big difference, but the smaller flywheel really helps the bike turn better. Love that mid and top end the ignition enhances as well. a must for anyone mx'ing the 500 IMHO

AMA714 · Post by **AMA714** » March 31st, 2011, 9:25 am

talk to me boys... 1996 CR 250 ignition??

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » March 31st, 2011, 9:44 am

Digital has more options, 97 and up. A cr250 ignition 99 thru 01 with a programmable CDI would be my first choice. A good budget one would be a complete stock set up 96 or older.

Basically the bike turns much better with the smaller flywheel. They have more pep from midrange and up and the low rpm pull is a bit softer. This is why I'm messing with programmable stuff, I want my low end back. I basically want a 500 curve on a CR250 flywheel. Do some searches. You can spend several hours reading what others has posted about this mod.

Top 6 things
CR250 ignition
wheels with a tubliss set up
rekluse pro or exp core auto clutch
balanced crank if yours shakes
Good suspension
fasst flex bars, the newest ones. They just redesigned them and they are better because they lessen the vibes more than the old bars.
Case of wheaties

AMA714 · Post by **AMA714** » April 5th, 2011, 8:15 pm

Hmmmm, i'll take that into consideration.

Your top 6 list, wont fly here though...
not a fan of Rekluse for MX
I like pro taper... cant stand Flex bar
Dont need Tubliss in sand.. I'll run lighter tubes
Wheaties are for weenies....lol

Thanks though, I was not aware that the digital ign was an option.

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » April 6th, 2011, 10:41 am

Sand MX is different. Southwick is a 3 hour ride for me.

I don't care for the auto in sand either, no real help but doesn't hurt. So have you tried the rekluse on a 500 for MX or someother bike?

I like the fasst bars because I can feel my hands when I have them vs any other bar they get numb in 1/2 the time. The latest fasstco bars are running a bearing in them vs the old greaseable pin. The newer one is better, transmits less vibes compared to the set up they have had for the previous 10 years.

tubliss in sand is stlll at least 1.5 lb lighter that ANY tube you put in your standard wheel. The tire will also not heat up nearly as much, therefore you will have less pressure variation from start to finish.

Heh, 491 posts, cooooooooool .

have fun

AMA714 · Post by **AMA714** » April 8th, 2011, 4:32 am

Thanks Sean. Maybe Ill look into the tubliss system.

I race a '10 CRF450 in +30 expert and ended up wadding my pipe in a first turn tangle, to run the second moto I borrowed my buddies bike (nearly identical to mine) and he had the newest Rekluse. I guess I got used to it but for me, I would rather just run a Hinson with Hydrolic actuation. I would imagine that on a tight track or in the woods it would be good.

seanmx57 · Post by **seanmx57** » April 8th, 2011, 7:44 am

cornering and starts is where they are an advantage, corners don't have to be tight, just ride a gear high, less wheel spin and the auto will rocket you out like a som bitch. We aint' talkin about 450 power, Running a cr5 a gear high with an auto on a MX track is a freaking wild ride. If you are expert you will be fine, a novice doing the same thing will be cleaning his underware by second lap with that set up.

87CR500Rider · Post by **87CR500Rider** » April 24th, 2011, 6:56 am

14/50 will put you in 5th gear for alot of Cycle Ranch while 1st gear is useless except for your ride from the truck to the track. I just ordered 14/48.

AMA714 · Post by **AMA714** » April 26th, 2011, 7:43 pm

after riding your's Tony I agree.. 48 might be a better option. Im starting with 50 since I have 5 of them...lol

BannedCR500Riders.com

500 A/F MX only set up

500 A/F MX only set up