Looks like time for new crank

[Lonewolf039]

Just tore my engine down to send the cylinder away to get re-bored and checked the big end side gap on my crank and it is .052" Max in my manual is .040" so it looks like I am needing a new crank. There is no detectable play up and down though.

Service Honda has a new crank for $328. Will be getting new seals, bearings and whatever else looks like needs replacing. Has anybody from Canada ordered from them? How are they to deal with? Just checking out my options. I have a bit of time yet before I have to order, but want to be ready to ride come spring.

Anybody know if Roosty can get cranks and parts? I am going to be sending him my cylinder, so might as well get everything from him if he can do it. Will PM him and ask.

[2strokeforever]

im pretty sure roosty can rebuild your crank for cheaper than 328$ + S and H

[Lonewolf039]

im pretty sure roosty can rebuild your crank for cheaper than 328$ + S and H

Thanks, just sent him a PM. Will see how it goes.

[AlisoBob]

There is no detectable play up and down though.

Run it, with 927' at 32:1

I wouldnt strip in down for 0.006" per side over spec.

The rod is the hardest thing to oil... not the piston.

[Lonewolf039]

There is no detectable play up and down though.

Run it, with 927' at 32:1

I wouldnt strip in down for 0.006" per side over spec.

The rod is the hardest thing to oil... not the piston.

OK, but I did have a crank come apart on me in a 125 a long time ago when the side clearance got out of hand. The thrust washer split in two and lodged between the crank and case, and blew the bottom of the case out. Good thing I had a spare motor for my old '83 Yz125, lol.

BTW, how is 927 in the cold weather? We can get freezing weather almost any time of year and I have heard that if Castor oil freezes, it is ruined, or maybe it was just that it separated? Any truth to this? I have thought about using it, but was always worried about the cold affecting it.

[100hp honda]

take this for what its worth but side play is my least concearn but i do have to say .052 seems like alot to me though considering its very possible it had .020 when new. i wonder if you have excess axial play also, which suggest the hole is getting wallered out on the ends.

prox rod used to be $100 from rockymountain and $100 labor to put it on. wheels never need replaced unless the bearing spins on the journal or you muff up the end threads

[100hp honda]

how did you check for up/dwn play ?

can be hard to feel a couple thousandths unless the crank is firly secured and you use both hands to pull up/dwn. what i do to eliminate any error is put some feeler gauges on both sides of the big end to eliminate any flopping side to side then sucure crank and pull up/dwn with both hands.

[Lonewolf039]

take this for what its worth but side play is my least concearn but i do have to say .052 seems like alot to me though considering its very possible it had .020 when new. i wonder if you have excess axial play also, which suggest the hole is getting wallered out on the ends.

prox rod used to be $100 from rockymountain and $100 labor to put it on. wheels never need replaced unless the bearing spins on the journal or you muff up the end threads

I don't have an accurate dial gauge so I didn't attempt to measure the axial play, but there is no discernable play when moving it up and down by hand. I was a little surprised that the clearance was so large, it was in spec last winter when I tore it down last and there has been no increase in vibration, maybe even less now that it is in the aluminum frame when compared to the steelie frame.

I would rather spend the extra little bit and get a new OEM crank and rod assembly than rebuild mine with a pro-x rod and bearing.

[Lonewolf039]

how did you check for up/dwn play ?

can be hard to feel a couple thousandths unless the crank is firly secured and you use both hands to pull up/dwn. what i do to eliminate any error is put some feeler gauges on both sides of the big end to eliminate any flopping side to side then sucure crank and pull up/dwn with both hands.

Think I will go back out to the shop and try that.

Thanks.

[Lonewolf039]

Well, I think I have to stop drinking beer when I am working on my bikes, lol. I just looked closely and realized I did not get the feeler gauge all the way to the crank pin, just the top of the washer. There is another smaller washer/shim a little bit in that I wasn't accounting for. I can get a .030" but not a .032" feeler gauge in, so I guess I am OK.

I tried the method 100hp described and the big end feels nice and tight. Like I said, I was surprised when I came up with the big gap. Should have double checked before posting, lol.

Thanks everyone.

[fastkart]

how did you check for up/dwn play ?

pull up/dwn with both hands.

It's well documented that you pull rods with both hands, but you don't need to hijack someone's tech thread to talk about it.

[AlisoBob]

I can get a .030" but not a .032" feeler gauge in, so I guess I am OK.

That sounds a little tight... I'd pull the crank and press it apart. Send the washers to Glenn for grinding , and resaasmble it.

[Lonewolf039]

I can get a .030" but not a .032" feeler gauge in, so I guess I am OK.

That sounds a little tight... I'd pull the crank and press it apart. Send the washers to Glenn for grinding , and resaasmble it.

Ya, I'll get right on that,

[caseyracing222]

I can get a .030" but not a .032" feeler gauge in, so I guess I am OK.

That sounds a little tight... I'd pull the crank and press it apart. Send the washers to Glenn for grinding , and resaasmble it.