Tire Changing

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AlisoBob
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Tire Changing

Post by AlisoBob »

I had a flat front the other day when we unloaded to ride... I filled it up, and luckily it held air all day... If it didnt, heres a good tutorial on fixing it... Stolen from: http://www.cycoactive.com/

Image
Study this diagram!The most important tip!
Understand that to get the bead over the rim, you have to press it into the recess on the opposite side!!!



"Changing a Tube in the Woods"



It often takes hours to drive to a riding area; don't worry about the half-hour it takes to fix a flat. Changing a tube on the trail is much easier than changing the whole tire. It doesn't have to ruin your day and the stuff you need weighs only 2 1/2 lbs. Twenty miles on a flat is a BUMMER. Believe me, it's easier to change it than ride it out, and the fun's over for everyone if you're the leader. Besides, front tires are easy - and half the wheels on your bike fall into this category. Being self-sufficient in the woods is important! It will make everyone happier - you, your riding partners, and your family. Remember - "The rim you save may be your own!"


Learn to do it yourself.
We're off-road motorcyclists. We LIKE to make things a little tougher; otherwise we would take the road. When you get to a tough hill, do you get off and pay someone else to ride it up the hill? Not if you ever dream of becoming a better rider. Same thing with tires. You CAN do it, and you'll be a better off-roader for it. DON'T let the shop install your tires until you've learned how to do it yourself.

Start by doing the front yourself. Get a hand pump or a $20.00 inflator that plugs into the 12V receptacle in your car. Discard the spoke band and cover the spoke ends with good tape, two layers max. Excess tape in the rim recess will make it harder to change tires. And remember that changing a tube is only half as hard as changing a tire. Get in the habit of using only the tools you carry in your toolbag to work on your bike. This will ensure that you have everything you need and that your toolbag's not full of junk tools. Once you get it set up, never 'borrow' tools from it; keep it sacred and separate from your normal toolbox. When you strap it on, it has everything, always.

On the trail, bring two 8 1/2" tire irons, a CO2 inflator, at least three CO2s, and wrenches for the axle and the rimlock. Put valve core removal caps on both wheels. A patch kit is usable if you have extra air to find the hole(s), and test it. A long nail can make a hundred holes on the other side, and often the valve stem tears out. Carry a front tube - it fits in the rear better than a rear fits in the front. (Yes - it works - all the pros do it.)

At this point it is assumed that the reader has at least changed a tire at home, and is familiar with the brake mechanism and chain adjustment.

Upright is easiest. First, get the wheel off the ground. If you have a kickstand, put it down and scoot the bike up against a tree, or use a stick on the opposite side to prop it up so the rear wheel is off the ground. Put all loose parts back where they came from. (If you can't develop this habit, pack a magnet in your toolbag). If you must disturb the chain adjusters, count the number of tic marks and write it in the dirt so you won't forget. Pull the axle out, push the wheel forward, and derail the chain on the outside of the sprocket.

Set the wheel sprocket-side down. Undo the rimlock nut to the last few threads, then remove the core and the nut from the valve stem. Since you rode awhile with the tire flat, you've already 'broken the bead', and the tire's ready to come off. Do it quickly, while the tire is still warm (and soft).

The more of the bead that's pressed into the recess (with your knees), the easier it will be to pry the bead over the rim on the other side. This is why you start at the center, between the rimlock and the valve. Use the 'hook' side of the iron to pry the bead off. Study the drawing and think about what's happening. If it's too hard, you're doing it wrong. If the pros can do it in four minutes, there must be a trick to it. One trick is to choose tire brands and models that are easier to change. Ask around.





KNOW what caused the flat.
This is very important! A snakebite always has two (or four) big holes, and deflates quickly, while you are still wondering if you hit that rock too hard. A small nail or wire will be hard to find, but you must find it! Take your time. A rag will usually snag on it, and won't bleed like your finger. If you put a new tube in on top of an old nail, you'll have some explaining to do at the next campfire. The air can only escape through a hole or through the valve stem. Most guys hang a loogie on the valve stem and watch for bubbles. (Ever hear about the mechanic from San Francisco who 'lost' a tire iron while fixing a flat at Barstow-to-Vegas? He found it inside his tire a few miles later.)

Remove the core, and inflate the new tube halfway by cussing into the valve stem. Replace the core and stuff the tube in, valve first. Distribute it evenly, and be SURE that it is ON TOP of the rimlock. Insert the iron only 1/4 - 3/8 inch past the edge of the rim. Use the straight side (not the hook) to reinstall the bead so you don't pinch the new tube with the tire iron. Be very careful when going beyond vertical with the iron - this is where the tube gets pinched. Again, take your time. (It's a lot like biting the inside of your cheek when the eatin's good.)

Start in the center, between the valve and rimlock. Alternate small 'bites' left and right. Keep your knees on the tire to press the bead into the recess. Finish at the center on the other side. Straighten out the valve stem, and put the nut on. Inflate the tire before tightening the rimlock. It usually takes a minimum of two CO2s for a front and three for a rear. Put the wheel back on and check the alignment, chain tension and brake adjustment.


Some General tire hints:
Don't ride thru campfires, even when extinguished - they're full of nails.

Any lube helps to change a tire - talcum powder, soap, water. WD-40 is the best 'cause it's hella-slippery and dries sticky! But it's hard to carry. Spitting while cussing seems to help a little.

Some tire brands are easier to install than others. In general the higher-quality tires install easier. Pirellis and Metzelers are easy. IRC s are OK. Dunlop 6-plys are difficult. Remember that front tires are easy.

Patches work! Clean and roughen the surface, removing all of the smooth surface and exposing clean, uncontaminated virgin rubber. Add the goop sparingly and never touch the mating surfaces - especially the edges! Wait five full minutes then apply the patch in a rolling motion to prevent bubbles. Leave the cellophane on. Pound it down with a screwdriver handle. The edges are the most important part - squish them down carefully, all the way around. If people in the Third-World can do it, cutting their patches from old inner tubes, you should be able to figure it out using a real patch kit.

If you're using a pump, first remove the valve core, the tire will pump much faster. When you remove the pump, you have to quickly cover the stem with your finger, then install the valve without losing too much air. You usually have to overinflate to seat the tire anyway. Try it sometime, I know it sounds backwards, but it's really significantly faster, especially if you have a small pump!
Last edited by AlisoBob on December 12th, 2009, 11:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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britincali
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Post by britincali »

Post up that transworldmx vid, thats the one that got me to try swapping my own, 3 tire irons is the key to an easy swap.

I change tires for at least 3 neighbours now :lol: :lol: :lol:

I can swap rears in about 25 mins now and after swapping 30+ havent had a single pinch flat :D
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Post by sabreguy »

88CR500
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thestuz
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Post by thestuz »

me and cr500r7 went out to a motox together once. after getting a flat on the rear after 30 mins, it took us 1 hour to change the tyre/fix the tube in muddy,rainy shitty conditions. after fixing the rear, half hour later, i got a flatty on the front. fukn nightmare.
do it!... cos if you dont, youll spend the rest of your life thinking about it anyway!

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iggys-amsoil
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Post by iggys-amsoil »

Bob you know how much I ride and every time I go out I have to check the front. The stock tubes are crap for holding air.

I have to get a new tire next week so its time to figure out what tube will prevent that. But it should be checked everytime out cause its critical to have 12 psi for moto.
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M.F.D.B.
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Post by M.F.D.B. »

I run Ultra Heavy Duty only in my bike. In 6 years I have only had one flat and it was impossible to avoid. I was doing a stand up wheelie in 5th gear across the flats at Dumont and hit a Diesel Big Rig that was about 3 inches under the sand which sent me about 3 feet vertical and tweaked my rim. Rode the whole weekend on it flat (didnt realize it had gone flat until I got home).
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP

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2strokeforever
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Post by 2strokeforever »

i got tubliss... if i get a flat ill let you know :D
the 450 will have less power and will be harder to start, and will be heavier, but to make up for it it will require more maintenance.
4stroke=dead fish
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asteroid500
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Post by asteroid500 »

alot of guys i race with in the endurance races acctualy place an inertube in between the forks & the front wheel, strapping it to the front mud guard.

When they puncture they break the bead on the non disc side pull out the tube, cut it in half, then pull down the spare tube taped to the fender, only having to place the spare tube into the tyre refit the tyre & inflate....it had me fkd for yrs why these blokes had there tubes sitting on the front guards, then i asked...great idea.

so next time you have your front wheel off, place a tube over 1 fork & replace your rim....you'll have a spare ready to go & you wont even have to take your wheel off :wink: .
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M.F.D.B.
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Post by M.F.D.B. »

You could do all that...OR just run a 4mm UHD tube like we do and not have too.. :lol: :wink:
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP

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craigf40
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Post by craigf40 »

asteroid500 wrote:alot of guys i race with in the endurance races acctualy place an inertube in between the forks & the front wheel, strapping it to the front mud guard.

When they puncture they break the bead on the non disc side pull out the tube, cut it in half, then pull down the spare tube taped to the fender, only having to place the spare tube into the tyre refit the tyre & inflate....it had me fkd for yrs why these blokes had there tubes sitting on the front guards, then i asked...great idea.

so next time you have your front wheel off, place a tube over 1 fork & replace your rim....you'll have a spare ready to go & you wont even have to take your wheel off :wink: .
Thats why i love this sight always learn something new i like that idea.Iv always used tire weld the stuff in the can which inflates the tire and seals it works most times but when it doesnt thats a trick.
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lewisclan
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Post by lewisclan »

asteroid500
thats a great fricken idea
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M.F.D.B.
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Post by M.F.D.B. »

lewisclan wrote:asteroid500
thats a great fricken idea
Would have made last AZ trip easier for you eh? :wink:
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP

2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
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britincali
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Post by britincali »

Just pinched my first tube :twisted: :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x :x



I got a kenda from the bike shop for $30 thats been on the shelf since jesus first pissed the bed and it fuked me.

Im bleeding, angry and I think I pulled a muscle.......


Now I gotta go do it all over again......................
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

britincali wrote:Im bleeding, angry and I think I pulled a muscle.......

Image
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britincali
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Post by britincali »

This tires made out of fukin tungsten man, im thinking of just running it without a tube lol.
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Tharrell
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Post by Tharrell »

I know changin a tire on the trail is one thing but, changin it in the shop should be an easier task.
I bought a Mikes Racing Products stand. It's friggin awesome!
I got the stand, the small wheel adapter and the new bead breaker.

http://www.mikesracingproducts.com/

Also, if you'll hammer the ends of your tire iron to make a small lip, you'll be hard pressed to pinch another tube because after you insert it into the rim, you pull til the lip catches the rim and you can tell if the tube is gonna pinch.
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Mad Dog
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Post by Mad Dog »

I got one of these.
http://pitposse.com/tirechanger.html
Yeh, yeh, yeh. I know, I'm old and lazy.
Trash can stand just wasn't getting it done, kept collapsing.
I actually used the center bolt on the last change.
Sure makes it easier having the tire secured. :applaud:
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M.F.D.B.
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Post by M.F.D.B. »

Britt, was the tire cold? If it was then take a space heater or hair dryer to it till its about 110 degrees (hot summer day in the sun) and you will be amazed at how much more flexible it gets...

Heres the all time greatest secret ever for tire changing, shhhhh dont tell anyone:
.
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.
.
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3 IRONS...MINIMUM!!!!!
Faster then Speedy Gonzalez, slower then the Road Runner!!! MEEP MEEP

2002 CR80
1999 Cr500
2003 CR250R
2005 CRF250R
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Tharrell
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Post by Tharrell »

Here ya go


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f41SzK5ZHSU

This is the stand I have.
Bead Buddy and 3 tire irons, Honda Polish to lube it up.
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

On Speedway bikes, the hub is flanged the same on both sides...

Image

To get a fresh edge on the tire, you remove it and swap the sprocket to the other side, and remount it ... done.

I'll never understand why on dirt bikes the drive sprocket and brake rotor are different flanges..... stupid.

Being able to flip your tire in 5 minutes would be awesome.....
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Mad Dog
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Post by Mad Dog »

Yes it would.......................
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KE 336
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Post by KE 336 »

AlisoBob wrote:On Speedway bikes, the hub is flanged the same on both sides...

Image

To get a fresh edge on the tire, you remove it and swap the sprocket to the other side, and remount it ... done.

I'll never understand why on dirt bikes the drive sprocket and brake rotor are different flanges..... stupid.

Being able to flip your tire in 5 minutes would be awesome.....
That's an interesting thought. Never crossed my mind but it would be neat.
I've never saw the gain worth the trouble to flip the tire. Only time I do it between tire change outs is if I have to fix a flat.
As for the tire stands, they make a huge difference over old school down on the ground. Most of the store bought stands are still a little short for us taller and older guys that don't like to slump over while working. I'm cheap and made my own from 2"x2" square tubing and about 8" 3/4" rod that goes thru the bearings to hold the wheel. Made it where the tire is about waist high. My back thanks me for it everytime I swap tires.
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

KE 336 wrote: Only time I do it between tire change outs is if I have to fix a flat.
Exactly....
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Post by MojoScojo »

AlisoBob wrote:
KE 336 wrote: Only time I do it between tire change outs is if I have to fix a flat.
Exactly....
Yup yup.

Flip a rounded tire around for a fresh edge and suddenly you have ZERO braking power!

I'll pass on that idea.
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

WTF in that right lever for?
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