Suspension work?

All Boinger, Sub-Tank, Steering Stabilizer Stuff Here.
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

NightBiker07 wrote:If the bore is destroyed, what are the options? new shock?

Yup

When you say destroyed, are you talking bore scoring? I have the skill but NOT the tools to check for bore defects like warpage, out of roundness, etc.

Your eyes will see it. Look for any damage on the piston and the corasponding area of the shock bore.

Peened on nut. does it have to be cut off?

Yup, enough to allow it to be safely unscrewed.
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Kartwheel68
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Post by Kartwheel68 »

100hp honda wrote:around here we dont use aftermarket moose or pivot works :roll: :lol:. that chinese garbage dont fly with me. j/k dude :lol: . dont want to step on toes but i recomend he go with oem stuff but either way i dont care its his money. you may be right, seems like that seal head deal is the complete package of stuff needed. theres other wear items besides that seal that should be replaced while you in that far though. that brass bushing deal i was talking about. also rubber orings on the little clicker deal of the resorvior. they dont move but no sense in reusing $2 orings that are 10 years old. i think theres is 1 or 2 more $2 orings on that piston mechanism that i would replace also but thats just me. maybe i went over board on my shock rebuild but i also replaced the bladder. compresses in/out and sits in oil continuosly. for $10 i wasnt gonna reuse the old one. regardless if you only replace a couple things or alot of stuff your still going to save tons of cash over what a shop would charge.
I used to work at a Honda dealership for 14 years and I agree, most of the time OEM parts are of much MUCH higher quality than aftermarket, especially Honda clutch plates. We put CR clutch plates in all kinds of bikes, KXs and YZs, because they are the best you can buy. Those Moose seal heads are very good though, I've done 30-40 shocks with them and never had any issues with the parts quality. The Moose seal head has that bronze bushing already installed in it too. The better deal is the PW shock rebuild kit, as I said, it comes with the bladder, the piston ring and the shock bumper too. In the Parts Unlimited catalog you an also order a seal head made by KYB if you have one of those shocks, if you have a Showa its OEM or a Moose/PW kit.
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NightBiker07
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Post by NightBiker07 »

Kartwheel68 wrote:
I used to work at a Honda dealership for 14 years and I agree, most of the time OEM parts are of much MUCH higher quality than aftermarket, especially Honda clutch plates. We put CR clutch plates in all kinds of bikes, KXs and YZs, because they are the best you can buy. Those Moose seal heads are very good though, I've done 30-40 shocks with them and never had any issues with the parts quality. The Moose seal head has that bronze bushing already installed in it too. The better deal is the PW shock rebuild kit, as I said, it comes with the bladder, the piston ring and the shock bumper too. In the Parts Unlimited catalog you an also order a seal head made by KYB if you have one of those shocks, if you have a Showa its OEM or a Moose/PW kit.
Hmm, I put a kevlar Dirt Digger clutch kit in my CR, all the reviews I had read said they were as good, if not better than the OEM.

as for the shock parts, I used a PW linkage kit, had no issues whatsoever with it yet. of course, time will tell...

Only thing I dont like about OEM is that you have to order each aprt individually.
AlisoBob wrote:
NightBiker07 wrote:If the bore is destroyed, what are the options? new shock?

Yup

When you say destroyed, are you talking bore scoring? I have the skill but NOT the tools to check for bore defects like warpage, out of roundness, etc.

Your eyes will see it. Look for any damage on the piston and the corasponding area of the shock bore.

Peened on nut. does it have to be cut off?

Yup, enough to allow it to be safely unscrewed.
so basically, dont buy parts until I have it apart :cool:

Im still in the dark about this nut a little, do they smash the nut after it is screwed on to keep pressure on the threads so it doesnt back off?
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce

1980 XL80s
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Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
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Kartwheel68
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Post by Kartwheel68 »

I've had good luck with Moose and PW kits, and you are correct, even though OEM might be better, the ease of buying one part number and getting everything at one time is worth it. As for clutch plates, everything but the fibers are fine aftermarket, but the Honda fibers are as good as you can get. About 10 years ago we sponsored a guy on a YZ125 and he kept trashing Hinson clutch baskets, after the third one they said they would only continue to warranty them if they used HONDA fibers, this was before Hinson made their own plates.

On the damper rod nut, you are correct. After the nut it torqued the nut is staked to make sure it does not back off. Also, torquing the nut is CRITICAL, the torque of the nut on the shim stack will effect the damping of the shim stack so it MUST be torqued. I forget what it is off hand though but dont just snug it down.
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

NightBiker07 wrote:Hmm, I put a kevlar Dirt Digger clutch kit in my CR, all the reviews I had read said they were as good, if not better than the OEM.
The best CR500 clutch is the Barnett Carbon

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BARNETT-MX-CLUT ... 0379076703

It has great feel like OEM, and is "Britincali-Proof"....

Nuff' said.
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

NightBiker07 wrote:Im still in the dark about this nut a little, do they smash the nut after it is screwed on to keep pressure on the threads so it doesnt back off?
You could go buy what real suspension shops use....

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1QFJIf0 ... e=youtu.be[/youtube]

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100hp honda
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Post by 100hp honda »

i dont see how the shock body bore if bad. theres a bushing in there thats designed to wear instead of the bore. $5 replaceable item. your shock might not be working right because it lost all the nitrogen. oil might even be low even though you claim theres no oil leak. easy to speculate all day what might be wrong. take it apart and see what is wrong :D

i used dremel to grind the peened part of the rod. nut came right off. put new nut back on with locktite or repeen it
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

100hp honda wrote:i .... put new nut back on with locktite
:roll:
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Kartwheel68
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Post by Kartwheel68 »

I grind off the peened part too, but dont trust loctite, re-peen the nut.
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AlisoBob
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Post by AlisoBob »

Kartwheel68 wrote:I grind off the peened part too, but dont trust loctite....properly torque, then peen the new nut.
:wink:
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Kartwheel68
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Post by Kartwheel68 »

Yeah, I already stressed how important torquing the nut is a couple of posts above. And dont reuse the nut, get a new one.
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NightBiker07
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Post by NightBiker07 »

that is a cool tool. I can think of a million uses, but most of the time on Auto shit, you'd never get that sucker where you needed it. I cant see myself rebuilding enough shocks to warrant buying the tool to do it.

Im gonna try to get around to fixing this in January, hopefully I will not have too much trouble with this one.
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce

1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6

Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
100hp honda
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Post by 100hp honda »

naw you dont need special tools for the shock, not usually anyways. on the resorvoir deal where the adjustment thing unscrews does it have a octagon shape for a wrench or 4 prongs for a tool ? its not the right way but you can usually put a rag on there and turn it with some pliers if its the 4 prong, unless you want to get the tool or make one. put tape on the threads of the rod before you slide the seal over it. since its your first one it probly take several hours to disassemble, then order the parts, then put it back together. follow what the manual says and youll be good. and put some wire or ziptie threw the valve shims right when you pull them out so they do get all mixed up or fall on the floor.
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Post by iggys-amsoil »

I'm a big Proponent of "while your in there have it revalved and sprung for your weight." But thats just me. I like to ride MX tracks and set up for that and its good for the trails. Just have to test several different jumps to see where to set the clickers at.

Same with cylinders, I cant stand the look of a stock cylinder, even if its just cleaned up and a mild porting is much better than a stocker. Its just that now you have to play with the jetting.
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NightBiker07
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Post by NightBiker07 »

iggys-amsoil wrote:I'm a big Proponent of "while your in there have it revalved and sprung for your weight." But thats just me. I like to ride MX tracks and set up for that and its good for the trails. Just have to test several different jumps to see where to set the clickers at.

Same with cylinders, I cant stand the look of a stock cylinder, even if its just cleaned up and a mild porting is much better than a stocker. Its just that now you have to play with the jetting.
I know exactly what you mean, but I dont think I'll have the $ available for the extra shock work. The only complaint I have now is that sometimes the bike will bounce back up if I bottom the bike out hard.

As for the motor, I used to be that way. but after 2 jetting nightmares, I dont touch it, or change anything that will affect it. I'll move the needle around, I'll change a main or pilot one or two sizes, thats it. Ive never touched the jetting on my 250, it runs cool and runs crisper than any 2 stroke I've ever ridden. The 500 runs awesome too after you get it started, turn off the choke and her blown out. After that, it doesnt load up. Bikes dont smoke or spooge a bit.
2000 CR250, pipe, filter, Vforce

1980 XL80s
1969 Broncco TX-6

Natural selection favors Smart people, so nature selects morons to be slow and dumb for tigers and stuff too eat. But in our modern world there just aren't enough tigers.
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