BannedCR500Riders.com

It needs to come out to weld the backside :roll: edit, just went and had a closer look. I was thinking you could pull the nut and push the bolt through, flip the bolt and do the other side the same so there is always a bolt in there before the contraction.. little too close fit near clutch cover fr...

Weld it with everything shimmed and bolted into their final position. i did as you said, BUT when i picked my frame up from the welder the engine was pulled out and sitting in a box... I was thinking WTF. These holes better line up. There was some slight movement too but luckily i could get the bol...

frames finished, time to start putting the bike back together. Total invesment for conversion $48.50




i think i'm going to kick back and have a beer..

The clamp is called a "super clamp". You should be able to get one at any industrial hardware store.

There is a huge variety that look a little differnt to others but all fit for the same purpose

AlisoBob wrote:Weld it with everything shimmed and bolted into their final position.

OK, thanks Bob. Will do

I've got a question. Sorry if it sounds silly. Do i have all my bolts done up nice and tight for the welding process? I'll be using the empty cases as the jig, or do i just get it tacked first and then pull the engine cases out to finish welding ? Last thing i want is to have it all stuffed up by a ...

headstays half finished.. I need to get new studs for my cylinder before i drill the holes. Make sure it's exactly where i want it.. i'll file them down and clean them up after... i'll finish them after my engine mounts and swingarm spacers are installed https://bannedcr500riders.com/images/auto/311...

the mounts are indexed, may be a little hard to see from the pictures but exact same thickness as standard mount. The inside face has the exact weld surface area as standard mount. The rear face however will have less due to the fact of how close the bolt is to the rail. Now saying that the ignition...

Mines a 125.

initially the boot was about 15mm lower than the carb and looking from the front of the engine the carb needed to be cocked to the right about 10 degress...

edit, just checked the part numbers. different to the 250

voila.. i'm hoping the rubber boot will develop a memory of it's new resting place.. wish i thought of that before hand. Ended up being quite easy.... i need beer

ok i've just had a plan.. leave the top subframe bolt in. Remove the lower 2 subframe bolts and chain roller. pull the subframe back and tuck it on the inside.. This gives me a better angle.. Then do up the carb boot clamps tight. pull the subframe back a little and back to it's orginal spot.. re in...

the most stressful part i've encounted thus far in the conversion. Damn carb/ boot alignment... It's actually not far out.... but it's giving me the shits big time.. it's a little cold this morning so i think i'll wait later in the day when it's a bit warmer and hopefully the rubber may relax a litt...

rear pipe mount, cost me $3... I thought bugger welding it. I've used a 32mm super clamp with the bango clamp bolt going straight through it.... The reason i did this is i can use this pipe on both my 500's if i want to. https://bannedcr500riders.com/images/auto/6d9d8c4243a1a0582e50731be251bb88.jpg

ready for welding.... i've trimmed down the original front mounts

regularly now, i learnt the hard way through some whoops. Snapped the linkage and shock. The rear just collapsed under me. That was my TM300

havnt really done much, have a wicked hangover... And way too many beers yesterday. Felt like the right thing to do at the time. here's how i clearanced the frame, i did one side at a time... https://bannedcr500riders.com/images/auto/6547d68590acf2666e5313f58f841b06.jpg i cut the timber so it sit ev...

NOTE these are 125 radiators. If you use 250 radiators they are different and require alot of modification with the outlet removed then plugged and relocated to the bottom of the radiator tank right side radiator, i'll need to trim the hose from the 125 and bend the waterpump outlet inwards a couple...

i've just come up with another idea with the stock silencer, i can flip the CAN around backwards, it wouldnt require any cutting and would give me a little extra length. The rear mount will line up, the front sits a tad lower but a bango exhaust clamp will work there That way the silencer will be lo...

here's the PC 304. Bottom mount lines up, top mount doesnt... It's possible to drill and tap a new hole for the rear. I'm thinking this may be a better way to go.

I've been experimenting today to try eliminate welding new mount tabs on the subframe for the exhaust silencer.. The standard cr500 silencer and cr125 silencer has exact same outer core size. I've swapped the guts of the 500 core into the 125 silencer so it lines up at the tabs. The angles where a l...

for the PC pipe i will use this little mount. It's the rear expansion chamber mount. I may aswell put it to good use. Fits well

here is the stock pipe, front mount fits awesome. I'll mock up the PC pipe later, after all i want to use my PC not stock.

tight fit. https://bannedcr500riders.com/images/auto/b8cc66dc3e678a1133cb5d230f98608f.jpg looks like lower pipe mount will fit with stock pipe but will not fit with PC pipe. I've got a plan and will post pics later. Hopefully no welding reguired. My aim on this build is do little as possible. Ohh, i...

edit - double post

I couldnt beleive how far they actually stretch. Some do, some dont.... One I did fractured without stretching at all. It appears the OEM material and final heat treat vary quite a bit. HOONS, BE CAREFUL WITH THIS METHOD!!! Pauly has had good success with it by heating the frames before and during ...