BannedCR500Riders.com

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLD-HONDA-CR-5 ... 2ebc2dc410

I got a black one for my ride ... Maybe I should have got a red one.

Thinning the herd. 1991 CR500, This is a lower hour adult ridden bike. Engine has never been apart, not even the top end. It is just as Mr. Honda left it. As with many early 90's dirt bikes in AZ. no title. I can provide a bill of sale. $1800. Not interested in any lower offers, if it sales, I recov...

I have a pwk, it fluctuates 1200 RPM as it idles. About every 30 seconds it idles down to 1200 rpm, then up to 2400 rpm, then back down to 1200. Is this typical? Pilot jet is 40. When air screw is all the way in it dies, from 1/2 turn out to all the way out, air screw in my hand it does not change. ...

Maybe dyno port on the pipe? You are ported right for the CPI. Could order it welded and see if it fits, then cut and rotate and reweld if it does not. What are we talking about it hitting, the water hose that goes to the back of the cyl? I have one I could stab onto a 91 steely and take some photos...

The only person I have read that said anything about that was steve_k. He is doing a gen 3 conversion and has a build post near the top of the page on the other site. I would not do it. I like the looks of a OEM flanged dimpled bolts. Mixing SAE components on a "metric" bike also bothers m...

I bet the wye you got is shorter, the part above the exhaust port, don't use that photo for reference as to where to cut. also i doubt that is the stock radiator mount location.

You really need to read Jerc's build post on the other site, and mine on this site, and the other site. The new wye is shorter, and does not have the radiator cross over hole. the way to position the wye is to use an engine, or preferably a jig that has the head mount, use the head stays you got in ...

I advanced, for reference bottom of the 3/16"ish round of the clutch actuator even with the top of the retainer tab, and rode for about 2 hrs at the dunes. It worked well.

GMbond's questions

+is this a 125 frame?

What would be the harm if I advanced a few more degrees, with regards to the clutch actuator arm retainer tab would no longer be effective?

I like the more aggressive timing curve of the 125 cdi.

Starts and runs good. No ride report as of yet.

Takes a few seconds to switch the CDI. Next time I go to the dunes I'll try both.

I used autocad to make degree templates to tape to the flywheels. I made a pointer that bolts to a stator cover hole, got to TDC using a dial indicator through the spark plug hole. I used a harbor junk timing light, a tachometer, and a note pad to record different timing curves. Please note these #'...

Please note that the regulator / rectifier is required. Part # 5 here http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=138840&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2002&fveh=3273 This messed me up. I did not know it was required, so I did not buy it with one of the 250 ...

I fit an '02 250 with an '04 125 cdi.

No ride report yet, but I did get it started.

the '02 + flywheel is sooooooooooo sexy.

I tried a SH PC pipe on my 125 conversion, It was not even close to working, too much tire interference. It was from a gen 2 bike SH bike. I also tried a FMF SH pipe presumably from a gen 3, also not even close. It is my understanding that the SH pipes are the same as steely pipes, just relocated re...

I gave up the search after AJ wrote "we used the same pipe on Gen 3 LE's , obviously engine placement may be different. " http://cr500riders.com/cgi/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1301960865/30#35 Maybe I should have dug a little deeper. Who is Pecker? Does he have a build post, or pics of the fit? Anyo...

Reasons not to do a '01 125 conversion 1) To my knowledge, there are no "build Posts" on the gen 2 125. 2) 125's are a PITA to build, if you are going to do one, might as well be a gen 3, where there are a few build posts to guide you along. Gen 3 plastics / graphics are more available and...

freeride588 wrote:Remove those horrible stickers at once

I bet you could sell the plastics and seat on e-bay and do pretty good. Some people are into that look.

How are you planning on doing the conversion? I highly recommend the billet wye that Jercs makes. He also includes some very nice head stays. Review his build post on the other site. Mine is on this site and that site as well. Nice find Same screen name? Jercs? maddog1927? No, but I did buy his wye...

How are you planning on doing the conversion?

I highly recommend the billet wye that Jercs makes. He also includes some very nice head stays.

Review his build post on the other site. Mine is on this site and that site as well.

Nice find

Try Jercs post

http://cr500riders.com/cgi/yabb/YaBB.pl?num=1237092683

I've done a PC and a CPI, but I do not go to much into it on my post

http://cr500riders.com/cgi/yabb/YaBB.pl ... 2191/15#15

I am surprised yours only touches "a bit" .

waiting for someone in the know to respond to this one. I asked my 2 stroke tuner, he said the window on the intake side is for motors with small intake ports, and that the 500 ports are huge and window is not needed. Doubt it would hurt. you would shave weight. Wonder what clyde, or adam's opinions...

cmotodad wrote:It must be me but that seal, if on the stotor side , looks backwards to me?

must be an optical conclusion. It is in correct.

looks like roosty and I posted at the same time. i like the "your good" idea. I am about twice the .080 in dimension. What is the end result of seal being too far in?

Gmbond wrote:If you push it in too far (bottomed out), don't you run the risk of blocking the crank bearing lube hole?

I am afraid that it is too far in. It is a new seal, just wondering if I need to remove it and install another.